What motor mount are you guys using for the BME 44?

I bought the aluminum H9 mount with my motor. It's a solid hunk of non-flexing heavy duty aluminum alloy!

Unfortunately it is also pretty darned heavy. I'm in the process of machining a Titanium engine mount now. Should absorb some of the vibration, be light weight, and exceptionally strong.

We will see when it's done.

Scott

Scott,
If you are interested in machining an extra mount let me know.

You can give Ralph at www.rcignitions.com a call. He makes nice mounts

Milton

Nobody agrees but I used the great planes plastic or whatever it's made out of for a year and a half on my BME 44. I sold that engine and now am using the BME 50 on the Hangar 9 mount. I really don't like the weight of that thing at all. For a reasonable amount of money I would buy a titanium mount myself. If you decide you want to sell a few let me know. That Hangar 9 mount is just way to heavy.

This will be a "one-off" deal. Titanium is really hard to machine. If someone else all ready made a nice light mount I would buy it instead, and save all the headaches.

The GP mount is a great option! It sucks up vibration well and is very durable.

I have to space the engine forward 1/2" further than the mount will allow. So I'm kind of stuck having to make this.

Scott

I'm using the GP mount on my BME 50 with no issues. Yea I agree the H9 mount is toooo heavy...

I think I'll retrofit my 50 to the Great Planes mount and shelve the Hangar 9 mount. I used one inch aluminum stand offs to get my 44 to the right distance from the firewall and mounted the engine back on the thickest part of the great planes mount. I believe it's a 3 or four ounce savings and will allow me more freedom in where I place my batteries.

I'm using a Dave Patrick mount on mine that came with the DP Extra. We'll see how long it lasts.

fancman

You have the right idea, for using the, GP mount, keep it back and use standoffs.
.
I had my BME 50 out too far, and although I thought it was strong enough. It gave me a bit too much flex, for me.

I am now using the H9 mount, but am thinking about going back to the GP.

Every ounce helps..

This would be much easier (and not much heavier) than making the Ti mount.

My only concern would be that the center of the mount is not supported.

But you've just given me a great idea!

Give me a week and I should have pictures.

Thanks guys!

Scott

My standoffs are made from 3/4" aluminum bar, drilled out to let my 10X322 bolt slide throuth and then machined down a little in the center to remove additional weight. Heck...I weighed the standoffs on a digital scale and together they weighed less than an ounce and along with the glass filled engine mount you're talking about 6oz total for the engine mount. Don't quote me on the exact weight but I know it's ounces less than the Hangar 9 and three or four ounces that far forward makes a lot of difference

I could have set the engine back even further in the mount and used a little longer standoff.




http://www.rcuniverse.com/attachment...&postid=912060

Hey fancman, did you change the arm on your choke in order to hook a servo to it?

That's a clean looking install.

Thanks for posting that.

Scott

Now that I have taken both the Hangar 9 aluminum mount and the Great Planes glass filled mount to the Post Office and weighed both on their digital scale I've found out that what I percieved as a couple ounces difference in weight turns out to be only about a half an ounce difference between the two.

The Hangar 9 mount weighs 5.6 ounces and the Great Planes mount that came with my 1/4 scale extra weighs 5 ounces. Until I get my fingers calibrated I won't be making anymore comparisons without first going to the post office and finding out the truth.

As for the choke arm. I ground off the end of the carb rod, took out the choke butterfly and then made a new arm out of brass and silver soldered it in place of the original arm. A more ingenious modeler on another thread found an easier way to accomplish the same thing. He went to his local hobby shop and got a metal rudder arm made by Prather and slid it right on in place of the original arm and tightened the set screws and was done. Most arms are nylon with an insert but the Prather is solid aluminum with the set screws and fits perfectly.

My choke is actuated by the retract channel and works great. By the way. I read another thread where the guy took out the detent ball before he reinstalled the butterfly and rod. Don't do that. The rod will be loose in the carb and genertate RF noise. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!! Adjusting the travel on your retract channel is all that is needed and the servo doesn't bind even with the detent intact. Using the metal arm you don't have to mess with taking out the butterfly or rod. Simple.

Scott....Looks like the only way to get a lighter mount is to use the titanium as you have began. Good luck with that.

Final answer.

I think the aluminum stand offs are lighter than Titanium. Really depends on the type of alloy and the amount in the mix.

I am thinking I can make a short Ti mount, and use the aluminum stand offs. I'll have to look at this closely.

I'm building the H9 Cap 80" and am dropping all the weight I can. I'm ordering a bunch of Aluminum and Ti screws. And I've found some areas were I can hog out some lumber.
Light is right!

Fancman, Thanks for all your input. I really appreciate the honesty. That saved me from buying the GP mount. BTW both your installs look real clean.

Happy flying!

Scott

Thanks for the pics... nothing beats a 2nd way to kill the engine in the air. Especially if the throttle linkage comes off or breaks. Some of these gas engines can run over an hour before running out of fuel.

What radio do you use? I love my 9C because I can assign it to any switch.

I'm using the 8 channel Futaba. The 9C is next on my list. I'd love to have the ability to have three rates and the option of switch assignment. Sounds so great.

Isn't there supposed to be some washers on the muffler brace to keep the muffler from breaking? I heard JA was prerry definite on them being installed.

Mark

FancMan,

Did you drill out or tap your standoffs? There was another post where someone drilled it out and then had rf problems betweent he standoffs and the H9 mount.

Also, I already took the ball check off the choke arm. Haven't flown yet. Will a standard servo move it off the detent? I am using the choke as a secondary shut off for my engine.

mark

I got my standoffs from RC Showcase and they were already drilled out to pass the bolts through. As long as the screws are tight there should be no RF noise generated. What caused RF noise with my airplane is the choke rod being loose in the carb houseing. I lost the little detent ball when I took it out of my carb but found another one at a local mower repair shop. The guy had plenty of weed eater engine carbs laying around and he took one apart and gave me the spring and detent ball for one of them. I'm useing a standard servo and there is no problem with it moving the choke off the detent position.

The washers on the muffler brace are most important on the engine side because of the slit in the support arm. The instructions say to make sure there is a washer on both sides of the arm there and there is.
'
I will certainly look for the RF noise problem with the mount if it should occur. Thanks for the info.

Merv