jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Tap the bearing onto the shaft all the way until it stops, there will be no gap at the inner bearing race, a small gap next to the outer bearing race.

willmissit

Thanks Jody,
Ihave two of these engines but Ihave never built one. Just ordered this one from you recently. I am using the stock ignitions and have had no problems with them. Is the after market ignition really that much better.

willmissit

Which one is the inner bearing? The one on the threaded end or the other one?

lou1947

Wondering what degree of timing are most people getting with the Rcxel ignition? (Using Valley View hull sensor for the Rcexl ignition mounted on the stock sensor mount). I can only get 25 degrees. There is no adjustment with the stock sensor mount and there is no meat on the sensor mount to grind any sides down.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you have the sensor installed backwards, flip it over and check again.

lou1947

I thought that the hull sensor would only fire one way.If I turn it over 180 degrees will she still fire?

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

2x

drola

My Feedback: (170)

i got my decathlon ready to go. thanks to jody for the parts. can't wait to fly it!

worldmodelsmach1

My Feedback: (1)

Well, Just a quick update of how things turned out for my engine, I finally got I to run for a while realizing that my problem was that my engine does not seem to like to start at idle, rather at about 3/8 throttle. I also got my first smack across the fingers when the engine kicked over while I was pushing the prop around slowly. I did make a swap and installed a new Champion US MADE (Trust me, in my book the fact that it comes from the US means a lot.) resistor plug which did actually improve my performance contrary to my beliefs. I am going to my club to see if some of the "gas guru's" can help me tune it up, as this is my first gasser. Im running a Hobbico 4.8 volt 1450mAh for the ignition and I'm wondering if that will have enough juice... Also, I see that some of you are running your engines on airframes without wings during ground testing, I hears that the wings disperse much of the engine vibration throughout the airframe, Is this true?

Regards,
-Chris L.

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

I generally tune up without the wing so that I can adjust the servos. Running with wings on will create more mass to vibrate so everything should vibrate a bit less and at a lower frequency (I think).

Rod S

saintcreed

My Feedback: (205)

I'm using a 1100 mAh -4.8v pack for my ignition...4-5, 10-12 minute flights no problems..getting 6540 rmp's with a Xaor 20 x 8...19#'s 10 oz thrust on the digital fish scale..using 87 octane with 40-1 Belray snythetic oil..

tryan02

Finally got mine tuned and timed it starts great still seems to have a miss till it warms up but flies awesome a little confused on that one. It tached at 7600RPM on 93 octane 35:1 18 x 8 Xoar prop. My plane has the power to do any maneuver you want now.

worldmodelsmach1

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I got mine running at my field today, but I seem to have hit a blockade... My field has a 98 db noise limit and at just over half throttle my engine is doing 98-99db. Does any one know where I can get a canister set for this engine, ad how much will it cost?

-Chris

willmissit

OK finally got the engine together. Iknow I ask some dumb questions but isn't that typical for a first time builder,lol? Somebody should tell them to update their instructions to read tap the bearing ALLTHEWAYDOWN onto the shaft. A few words could make a big difference especially for a first time builder. Anyway Iappreciate the help and Iam anxious to run the engine. Should Iget the after market ignition or just go with the stock one for now. I do want the engine to run the best that it can. I'm planning on putting it on a Corby Starlett and hope that it has enough power. Iwish I were as smart as my computer,lol.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

I agree. If they really want to make this little kit engine a winner on the marketplace, they could clean up the instructions a bit and put a better electronic ignition sensor mount and they'd really be onto something. After all the trouble I had with it, I was pretty darn sure I'd made a bad investment but after Jody helped me out and I'd stuck another 70 or so bucks into it for a better ignition, the motor shows real potential to be a good investment. But, i don't think a lot of people who might consider buying one would be willing to put up with the hassle or be lucky enough to have someone help them like I was. The big thing is that nobody in this hobby very long is going to be willing to risk a high-buck model on a motor that has a lot of issues unless they have money to burn and time to throw away. We don't mind doing it - the buying and building - but we don't want to throw it away needlessly either. I have been in this hobby for about 40 years now and it is still enough fun where it is my main hobby and where I spend my "fun" money so its a big deal to me. I log all my flights and keep track of how much time my models spend in the air and I will watch this motor carefully and will tell it like it is. So far mine has ran a little bit over 2 hours and is really looking good at this time. Its staying clean on the outside and seems to be getting more powerful as it runs. I really like that once I've started it for the day it has then been a really easy motor to re-start. Usually on one flip and that makes any of us a happy-camper. If it remains this well-behaved throughout this first season I will consider buying another one of these in a heart-beat. A report will follow. Yesterday I did an inspection on my model after it had flown for about 90 minutes and found the clunk line had slid back and had the clunk jamming against the rear of the tank so I had to do a tank-ectomy and fix that. After pulling the cowling off I was amazed to find that instead of the recommenced 18X8 prop, I had mistakenly installed a 20X8!! [:@] No wonder it sounded like it was over-propped!!! Hire us elderly modelers, we are fun to watch!! Anyway, the above is just my .02 cents worth. AS time builds on my motor, reports will follow.
Have a good one!
Rocky

willmissit

Thanks Rocky,
Iam 61 years old and Itoo have been in the hobby for over 40 years but this is the first ever engine kit that Iknow of. Ireally liked the idea and Ithink Iread where they are going to kit a 55cc. Guess Ihad better invest in a bearing puller and a few other small tools,lol. Now if Ican save enough to buy a trailer for my Harley to pull my planes to the field Iwill have the best of my two worlds all at the same time. I'll be posting after Irun my engine for the first time. Stayed tuned to this channel

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

You must have missed the OK Cub engines that were available as kits. I put together 3 or 4 of them in the fifties. If I recall correctly, they were under $10, which suited my limited means at the time.

tryan02

Other than a small miss in the timing when cold mine with stock ignition and RCXcel mount NGK plug is running excellent. I have flown the wings off my seagull extra 260 180 size (Literally). I cracked the fuse right behind the wings I think the arf glue they use is weak a little fast jet CA got it back solid. But hey enough power to crack the fuse? Now thats something.

I too ride a harley so I just love motors and noise I didnt really read the directions just looked at the pics to build the motor as the pictures told more than the type. My problems with this motor were quality issues thats what upset me. 1:The stock plug barely lasted through 2 tanks for breakin 2:then the plug gap was wrong got that info from here 3:sensor timing was way off 4:still believe stock ignition may be a bit weak for this motor will be re-gapping plug to see.

these are design issues we shouldn't have to fix the motor to make it run.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

I put in another hour of flying/running time on my engine today and my gripe about it now is still that it acts like it is breaking into a 4-cycle when it is at speed and unloaded like at the bottom of a loop. I can then pull it vertical and it will clean up and run nicely on a long climb and when flying level will run right on the edge of running clean and peaked but just about the time you think its going to stay running clean, it will get a little "raggedy" again. I tweaked a bit - then took off and observed it and then would land and tweak it a little again and sort of "snuck" up to where it is now. Tweaking meaning leaning the high speed needle. I gave up trying to use a tachometer on it to tune it like I have with my other gas engines. After a lot of trial and error I had it worse than ever so I put it back on the ground, tied it down and was able to tweak the high speed needle when it was running wide open. I set it so it was peaked and sounding good and then put it back to idle and then tweaked the low speed needle until it idled nicely and then enriched it a tiny bit. I then ran it up to the top end again and then enriched it from peak just a little and it sounded great. I took off and as soon as it got up to speed it broke up and ran like it was raggedy or 4-cycling again so I landed and then leaned it a little and then took off and kept doing that until I got it running clean at wide open most of the time. That's where I am with it now, it starts good at about 1/3 throttle and a firm flip and will clean up in a vertical climb but once in awhile speeds up and then slows down at idle at the same throttle setting, but so far is not quitting on final, but I am carrying about 1/3 throttle to make sure it doesn't quit on the wrong side of the trees. The needles on this motor are very touchy because moving it what appears to be about 1/2 a click on any of my other gas motors has a LOT of affect. Tuning this motor has been quite an adventure so far and I have to say, not fun. I still can take off the air-ram or change the plug or even go to a 100:1 synthetic oil mixture so I have not run out of ideas yet but it should not be this hard to tune a gas engine. There are millions of small 2-stroke gas motors out there doing a lot of jobs that never get the kind of TLC this thing has and they aren't anywhere near this fussy. Its so close to being "right" at this stage though that I'm still optimistic.

willmissit

What is the total run time now. I have a few gassers that didn't start to run right until they had 4 or 5 hours of running on them. Set it up for the best and most reliable idle and just fly the crap out of it. Might just take some time. My 17cc gasser took about two gallons of gas through it before it decided to quit fighting and run for me. It is now one of my best running engines.

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

This is my first gasser, and one thing I noticed and was currious about is that in a dive it doesn't pick up speed and unload like smaller glow engines.
Normally with a glow engine, the plane seems to pick up about 25% more speed or so in a long dive, but this plane seems like it may pick up 5-10% in speed at most. And it also gets that 4-stroke kind of sound, almost like a big truck going downhill using compression to brake. I'm thinking it is mostly the big prop acting like a brake. Is this normal for gassers not to really accelerate in a dive?[X(] It doesn't affect the flying, just seemed weird at first.

Rod S

worldmodelsmach1

My Feedback: (1)

Please anyone, not to be rude, but your my last link with this engine because no one at my club has even heard about it. I am looking for a way to get cans or a silenced muffler so that I can be under my field's 98db noise limit to fly my extra 260... Any hints suggested. (im at 99 decibels with the stock muffler swinging a zwinger 18-6-10 at half throttle)

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

All you need to do is buy a decent prop, those Zwingers are some of the loudest props made, you also are using to small of a prop making matters worse. Get a Xoar, Menz, JXF, NX, or PAU, in 19x8, 20x6, or 20x8, you will be fine and have better performance.

willmissit

Mine seems to vibrate less with the wing on

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

I'm wishing the same thing. I believe we are to be 93 db here. I haven't taken any readings, but it seems as loud as many of the 100cc+ engines flying here. I searched around quite a bit and it seems you have the choice of spending $150 or so for a commercial can muffler or build your own from an aerosol can or such. I'm tempted to try a lawn mower muffler, with the idea that they need to flow much more than our little engines. I also wondered about shoving a perforated tubing into the supplied muffler. I never understood prop noise. I can't hear that it is ever excessive. We have a number of giant electrics at our field, and I can't hear any annoying prop noise.

Rod S