is there a low voltage spark plug?
#1
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From: ephraim,
UT
I have a 26 cc gasser that will not run more then a few minutes. After a lot of work I tend to think it is the battery/spark plug combo. I am using a 4.8 volt 1100 mah battery and a spark plug from napa that matched the one That was in it. So my question is this, Is there, and should I be using a special sprak plug other then what I have?
I have found that the engine will run for a minute or two and quit and will not start again unless I put a new battery in. I have cycled the batteries and they apear to be in pretty good condition.
Thanks for your help.
I have found that the engine will run for a minute or two and quit and will not start again unless I put a new battery in. I have cycled the batteries and they apear to be in pretty good condition.
Thanks for your help.
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From: Orlando,
FL
Hey Mountain
I don't know which ignition system you have, but I have an idea.
If the plug is the correct one, and the battery is in good shape, then you pretty much have to look at the ignition system.
The ignition system may be defective, so I would look at getting an replacement.
Oh, by the way did you properly gap the plug? The gap should be from 18 to 25 thousand... your manual would tell you exactly.
Good luck
Henry
I don't know which ignition system you have, but I have an idea.
If the plug is the correct one, and the battery is in good shape, then you pretty much have to look at the ignition system.
The ignition system may be defective, so I would look at getting an replacement.
Oh, by the way did you properly gap the plug? The gap should be from 18 to 25 thousand... your manual would tell you exactly.
Good luck
Henry
#4
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How old is the battery? What condition is it in? What kind of ignition? What kind of engine? What kind of plug, including the part number? Did the engine have the right plug to begin with? Just because the manufacturer provided the plug does not mean it was the right one. Was the plug correctly gapped? Was the engine tuned? If so, is the engine lean and shutting down because it's too hot? Changing the battery gives the engine time to cool off.... Do you have the ignition mounted right behind the engine or in line with the hot exhaust gasses?
You did not provide anywhere near enough info to begin providing assistance.
You did not provide anywhere near enough info to begin providing assistance.
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From: omaha, NE,
RC Report in the November 2007 issue ran some amperage consumpsion test on the ignition module on the new Zenoah G-20EI. Thats the electronic ignition G-20. That moduale consumed 2180 MA at 5000 rpms. That will kill a 1100 MA batt in no time. As soon as the threshold for minimum votlage required for spark to occur is met, the engine dies. At what voltage that is, I don't know. Charge up your batt and put a volt meter in parralell with the module input voltage and see when it quits. C&H ignition 307-857-6897 sells a $80.00 replacement ignition system for that engine , the CH-RCEXL, that only consumes 308 MA at 5000 rpms. Call them and see if they make the a system for your engine using that same module. Your only other option is to use a much larger capacity battery, which will also weigh more and probably cost atleast $40-50. Due the voltage dropoff test and let us know. Rick
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Your first two sentences is why I asked what engine it was. Depending on the engine there may already be an RC Exl that's "off the shelf" ready to go for the engine and plug type. On most single cylinder ignition systems an 1,100 mAh 4.8v battery will provide dependable power to the ignition for several hours of continuous running.
Normally an ignition battery that gets weak will cause the engine to run a little rough, with problems on the throttle up for high rpm.
Normally an ignition battery that gets weak will cause the engine to run a little rough, with problems on the throttle up for high rpm.



