Francis Fernand

Hi,

I live outside of USA and I'd received my new DA-50-R. The manual says Amsoil 2 Cycle lawn mower petroleum based oil, but I was searching in Amsoil Site and the oils for this purposes are synthetic.

Could anybody tell me what is the exact name and/or model of this break-in oil ?

I have a friend of mine in Miami, Fl. who's coming tomorrow to my country and I want him to bring this oil.

Thanks in advance.

A320driver

My Feedback: (1)

Any mineral based 2 stroke oil will work. You should be able to get what you need from either an automotive parts store or some where that sells gas powered lawn mowers/chain saws. After the break in period, Amsoil is the oil to use.

ShoestringRacer

Is this castor oil OK to use say in a Fuji or ZDZ engine??

I have a few bottles of it but am not sure if it is ok.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS627&P=7

Thoughts???

thank you

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

ShoestringRacer

I read the tech notes on this oil and they say that it will work with gasoline. However, I would never think of using castor oil in one of my gasoline engines based on my previous experience with castor in the olden days.

For breakin I like Pennzoil 2 cycle air cooled oil and after that one of the good synthetics.

Ken

jelaird

My Feedback: (1)

Anybody know a source for Penzoil 2 cycle air cooled oil? All I've ever found here in the Phoenix area is the marine 2 cycle stuff. My ZDZ 80 recommends it. I use Stihl 2-cycle high performance oil (50:1) instead because my Taurus 2.6 recommened it and it wern't too shabby.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Jack,

I got a pint ($3.25) from RC Showcase when I ordered a couple of Bambula props from them. Another guy said that it is available from Advance Auto Parts. We don't have one in the DFW area.

Ken

Aero330LX

My Feedback: (-1)

Never use castor in a DA. It will gum it up and ruin the motor. What it does is burn onto and varnish the parts and messes up the tolerances in the engines.

As far as the oil, the best thing to do would be to talk to DA directly. I would say to use lawnboy, because that's what the manuals for the 100 and 150 say, but i'm wondering if there is some reason they have changed it. There are plenty of ways to do it I know, but what is the best way? Only they would know that right now. I've gone strictly by the book on their engines. They spend alot of time at DA to make sure the best methods are printed in those manuals for their engines. You definately want to run the right oil at the right ratio during breakin.

BigBird1

My Feedback: (4)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jelaird
[B]Anybody know a source for Penzoil 2 cycle air cooled oil?


K Mart in the lawn and garden section
Wally World the same place..

They keep the boat stuff with the regular oils

Lawnboy ashless in the green can would come in a close second, I've used both..with no problems..

Aero330LX

My Feedback: (-1)

Hi,
Just talked to Dave at DA, and I asked him about the oil for breakin. He said if you can't find the oil in the directions that lawnboy ashless should be used. Mix it at 32:1 and run 2 gallons of it is what he said. He said the directions said that more could be run, but that 2 gallons was sufficient. After that Amsoil at 100:1. I talked with him some about that 50 and that thing is amazing. Run it just like the directions say or what Dave has said above and you're gonna love that thing. A 23x10 Mezjlik will run like this (taken from a post a guy made about his DA 50)...

1st run up and flight 6300 on a 23x10 Mej
2nd flight 6420
3rd flight 6550
4th flight 6690

As you can see it breaks in quickly, and is extremely powerful. Hope this helps you some.

flyindoc

My Feedback: (8)

I bought my DA100 at the Toledo show in April. I spoke with Dave Johnson there when I bought it and he recommended either lawnboy ashless or pennzoil air cooled for 4 or 5 gallons and then Amsoil 100:1. I personally think a high performance engine needs a little more oil than 100:1, so I'll mix mine at 60:1 as recommended for high performance applications on the bottle. The lawnboy and pennzoil is at 32:1 for the breakin time period.

Andy

Aero330LX

My Feedback: (-1)

60:1 is too much oil. 80:1 is what the bottle says *can* be mixed. But the oil is formulated for 100:1. 80:1 is recommended only for hard running...like high heat racing. Basically they are talking about high rpm kart engines like rotax racing cart engines. These run up waaaaayyyy higher, and get much hotter. The DA is a cool running engine... 170F up to 85F outside air temperature, and will only get to 200 on 100 degree days where it is very humid and the heat index is near 104 or higher. These engines don't really get that hot. I've seen a few engines that run 80:1 and all it does is spit it out on the bottom of the plane. I've been running 100:1 for 1 1/2 year now, it's plenty, and still leaves some on the bottom of the plane. One thing I do when I'm at the pump is mix up 3 gallons (a 1/2 of a 8oz bottle) and pump just under three gallons (2.98). The cylinders have been checked frequently with a small mirror I have and a light. No signs of excessive wear, no scored cylinders or burned rings, and best of all no soot. Not having enough oil is a bad thing, but so is having too much. Don't sway from the manual...the manual was written from results of testing and feedback. Remember who is covering the warranty on that engine...the same ones who wrote the manual. They do know best. hehe I talked with Dave about this when I bought my engine and he assured me that 100:1 was suffcient, and that they had been running the 150's on it since before the 100 was out. There is a bunch of flights on my 100 (I'd hate to look at the log to see how many), and the engine really is like brand new inside. The plugs are a perfect greyish tan too. I can't see any gain from running more oil.

OSilfa

My Feedback: (2)

Francis:
in Ferreteria Americana you can get Sthil 2 cycle oil or in La Innovacion you can Get Poulan and Homelite oil for braking your DA 50.

I used Sthil for my engines.