How about a thread to this engine only? The "big" RCGF thread is unwieldly, and I'm hoping to collect current users' comments and info about the 62.
If you have one, would appreciate power info, installation hints/ideas, weights, installed dimensions, etc. What props you've tried in what applications would be good, too....

Any RCGF 62 users out here??

Good idea Bob. I think this engine would work really well on the bigger 50cc class planes. It would be nice to get some actual weights with ignition and muffs compared to the popular 50cc engines.

And the "50cc" Biplanes which really aren't....like the Peak Models Python or Aeroworks Python or BME/PAU Pitts Challenger. Wonderful bipes, but on the high side of "50cc Performers", I think.

But maybe not...hence the question....

What prop does this engine seem to like best for loading in its' torque band??

Peak models python, ultimate etc are better off with a lighter 50cc IMO. I have the python.

RCGF 62 is a nice motor but I dont have any figures yet. Had a few issues but my aerovate dealer(Aussiesteve) looked after me and I got them fixed. Yet to run it now its fixed.



Edit: No flying wires are included with the python but it needs them. Prove me wrong

That is alot of info to transfer from the other thread.

I finally got a chance to fly the Yak yesterday with the new NX 23x8 on the 62. It feels like a totally differant plane. The take off run is alot shorter and the vertical performance is also alot better. I did notice that when I messed with the needles after installing this new prop I am now running a little rich on the low end but that is a easy fix.

Hi
I have one in my Sd 33% yak. Vess 23a and now a Meizlik 23/8. 6400rpm. need 5 more liters before i lean it.

Works great!

Thomas

I have one in a Pilot-RC 30% Yak.
I got about 6400rpm on a Menz 23X8, but since then I have leaned it to the max, and have put some fuel through it. It now runs 6800-6900 on the 23X8 Menz, and is just insane in power on that plane (only 15lbs)
I do however have the disadvantage of living some 6000feet above see level, so I would like to see what this thing will do at the coast.
I am busy fixing a 30% ultimate that I flew with a RCGF 50cc, the plane was powered alright, but not good for extreme 3D. I have now fitted the 62cc on this. It will now be easier to balace due to the extra weight of the engine and I can accommodate smaller batteries. The plane will be ready by next week, when I will go to the coast to re maiden it at a fly-in......
We will see what that brings?

Does anyone have a good side dimension drawing on this engine? I would appreciate it.

I am stuck in a 90" warbird, usually put 50cc on an 80" and 75cc on a 100", I think the 62 is perfect. Has anyone prop the motor with a zinger 22x8-14, this is what I normally use on g62.

fw190:

I have all the manuals here: http://www.modelaviation.com.au/cata...id=7&chapter=6
The dimensions are in them as well

apalsson, thank you very much for that.

I had a $150 paypal voucher and just couldn't resist... , I guess I will find out the difference in power vs Zen G62.

Maybe I should have posted this here instead of the long and winded RCGF thread....

Well I got my RCGF 62 last night. My motor was received from Southeast RC Engine. The motor came with the RCGF badge on the ignition, it did not say 'Walbro' on the carburator. I was hoping it came with 'Walbro and RCexl ignition but will give it a try.

I am by no means an engine expert but I can disassemble and put them back together just fine as I have had Zenoah, 3W, Moki and OS etc prior and those motors all run great IMHO. This is my first 'Chinese' made engine, well not really, I did have a Magnum .40 and that ran pretty good.

I am not disappointed yet because I have not run the motor but I did find these few things that I thought could be better...

- Nearly all the screws are loose, they all have different pressure when I removed them. Ever tried removing a Zenoah screws? specially the cylinder head screws (you know what I am talking about if you ever removed one) they are tight and they have been aided with some form of loctite)
- I broke one of the fin trying to remove the nut that holds the muffler screw. The nut would not go into the slot on the head and tried to remove it to reposition doing so I broke one of the fin. WOW! The piece that came off, I can break into a hundred pieces using my fingers and a needle nose pliers. This is good to know that I should not even think about crashing this motor.
- Did they use the wrong size tap? Well I don't see a single screw that goes into any thread well enough. The only time the screw ever gets tight is when it bottoms out. I can wiggle all the screws into any thread on any motor part. Not dissapointed but scares me that I will strip a screws or it will strip themselves during operation (In my case the chances are more likely in flight).

Enough said! I will remain positive till I get some runs on this motor. I have a G62 and will run the same day, same prop and same muffler to see some numbers for comparison.

Vic

Hi Vic,
I don't have any experience with Southeast Engines, but I know that when I bought my RCGF engines from Henry they were all gone through to make sure the quality was there. I don't recall any loose or ill fitting screws or parts. I would be cautious given the brittle nature of the fins you describe. I'm interested to see how the 62 compares to the new YD 56. I'll be watching to see your results.
Sam

Henry does not carry the 62 but really wanted it more than the 57, they say the 57 has more power... will not argue with that but I wanted the RCGF 62 hoping to have similar numbers as my Zenoah G62s.

The screws will tighten I just notice they have play as they thread in... that I am not used to seeing on an engine this size. I do not see this on Zenoahs or 3W the screw fit well in the threads. Hopefully its no biggie and she fly!

Agree the brittleness of the head kind of scares me... if I stand behind it I should be fine!

I only need to test tightness of a few screws to know they all need to be loctite and tighten. I removed all of them using an allen key and two fingers. The Zenoahs I had to use my hand and a long allen to remove screws.

Making sure the motor does not fall apart is really the manufacturers responsibility, more than half would just mount this motor on a plane and fly it....

Hey All
The RCGF 62cc cylinder.... it is the exact same one used on the MT 62... which coincidentally is the same one as the G62..... The differences lie in the fact that RCGF 62c has a rear carb configuration.. and that is why you have the side plate.. Outside of that.. the cylinders are the SAME...everything....

The fins are brittle - mostly because they are cast and have been bead blasted.. so they are thinner by process. Breaking a fin or two does not affect the engine performance in the least. If the fins are as brittle as described.... that is not typical of the cylinder. However.. if the bolts were being removed and the tool was leaned on the fins, I can see why they could break.

The carb is and HLIC.... a Walbro company..... basically it is a Walbro...without the badge...

Loose bolts? fw130 is correct.. ANY engine that has these is not a properly assembled engine. It shows assembly process errors. He needs to contact the seller and let them know. The seller needs to contact the factory immediately. fw130 has a lot more patience that I would have if I had an engine with these issues.

Power - Driesbabe is hitting the mark when he is describing his performance of this engine.

Daddysam is correct that our company is longer carrying the 62cc. It was a strategic business decision, and one that is working well for us. We were to the first to bring the 62cc engine to the North American marketplace. That said this engine was developed with valuable input and insights from other distributors like aussiesteve and driesbabe - who were big time contributors.

Cheers
Henry

'A little heads up....REAL G62 cylinder fins are not brittle..
REAL G62 cylinders NEVER come from the factory with the chrome honed through at the top of the bore...

Well got both motors mounted. I don't know the condition of the G62, I got it recently from an RCU member, didn't feel like bringing my airplane to the field just to run up my other G62. The piston inside looks clean so I am guessing a few gallons but looks likes it been through the rough with broken fins. I will swap the mufflers around Jtec and B&B to see how each muffler performs.

I will find out tomorrow how well the RCGF 62 runs. Mounted on it is a Zinger 20x8-14 paddles, which I often use on my Zenoah G62

What I mean to say the screws 'wobble' means I feel there is play when the screw is in the thread, if you take apart the motor, insert the screw where it suppose to be and there is a slight play, even almost in. It only tightens up when it bottoms or two motor pieces mate up. It will work, just not the best, hopefully loctite is my friend here. I even cleaned all the screws with alcohol because it appears to have some black grease, loctite will not work to its fullest with grease. I fly 3D electric helis and I can tell you right off the bat how a heli will hold up on the long run by how well the screw fit the taps. The heli clones are notorious for bad tapping jobs and its why they are cheap. If this RCGF holds up then its not a concern, only concern is when someone does not go through the motor.

On the Zenoah G62, I converted the plug to use the same CM6 plug. I was planning on reducing the overall dimension using a carb bend on it but decided to try the RCGF motor on my next P51 mustang. I mounted a spinner to it as I can use a starter on the G62.

I don't know if the cylinder head casing is from the same factory but they look identical, however it does not have the Zenoah markings on it and the side intake port doesn't look like its been capped but been shut during the casting. Yes the RCGF head has been bead blasted. IMO, its is pretty fragile. I am afraid to roll it on the table while working on it, but not so with the Zenoah version.

Henry thanks for the info specially the walbro make.

Vic

So who is going to vote it will pull left or pull right? Or one of them wont even start?

I think it will pull right but it could be a beginning for something like a 337 Skymaster

If you look real close at the RCGF cylinder side cover in the right light (if you give it an acid etch it shows up straight away) you will see where the screws holding the cover have been milled down then the whole cover blasted to cover it up. It doesn't affect the engines performance though.

I should have looked on the inside of the cylinder head while I had it opened. Funny how this head feels very very light.

I am interested in your comment about the tapping of the screw holes. I too have noticed that Chinese mfg components that have tapped screw holes seem to be 1/2 size too big. I have gotten into the habit of retapping the screw holes to the next size std thread and using replacement screws and setscrews. Just looking at the pictures of the Chinese engine and the G-62 it is obvious the metallurgy in the clone is inferior. Having the opportunity to examine a couple of the cheap engines in our club which have failed after just a few flights I am amazed that they ever ran! One characteristic of these engines (various 28 and 50 cc clones) that I have noticed is they all slow down in the air and are running at quite a bit less rpm by the end of the flight. I attribute this to bad tolerance control that tightens up after heating up but maybe its also inferior metallurgy and machine work. Makes me wonder why people put up with such shoddy workmanship, but I guess that cheap overcomes good all the time. i don't understand the logic of modelers who think buying three crappy engines instead of one good one is economical!!!

Larry

Well, I am not liking this RCGF 62, I am actually loving it! 6-7 flips then pop, remove choke, set to high idle one flip and she runs! The needle setting is just about right, 1/8 turn in on the low needle result in very quick acceleration. Ran for 20 minute at around 2500-3000, played with idle at the end of the first run and got to 1500-1600 rpm without it cutting out with excellent transition to full power. Ran it again for another 20 min at 3000. I then tach'd and play with high needle setting to get these values at a safe cool setting. The motor is smooth at the low idle and high rpm, however vibration is strong around 2000-2200 rpm. The motor is mounted on the stand so it could be different on a model.

Here are the tach reading from both motors using a Zinger 20x8-14 paddles and 40:1 Evo Synthetic oil, 87 octane.

With the RCFG 62, B&B muffler at high rpm was 6650, with the Jtec high rpm was 6800.

With the Zenoah G62, I need to go through the carb and install a carb kit I think, when I worked on it last night I saw the previous owner used silicone seal between the carb and the intake manifold blocking the vent line... duh! I only found this because I replaced the manifold using the easy carb link kit. However it ran well enough for me to tach the high end setting, also idled well but could not adjust the low end correctly for a clean transition.

What I got with the G62, B&B muffler 6750 rpm, with Jtec rpm was around 6850. Assuming this motor has around 2 gallons through it at most from the looks of the piston.

The sound of the Jtec muffler is better as it has a deeper tone and was 150 rpm better than the B&B muffler which was slightly smaller but with longer exhaust stacks. I forgot the stock RCGF muffler so no data on it.

Well I am pretty happy with the RCGF motor... idles well and I am sure it will probably reach 7000 on that prop fairly soon. I think this motor is more than enough for my 1/5 scale mustang!

You have a good point, this was my first impression on the motor with screws. I only purchased this engine to try something new and see if I am missing something. I can easily find a used Zenoah for around 200-250 this one I got for 200 includes the muffler and mount... (though its been molested by the previous owner it still runs great, just needs my attention on the carburator). I know the Zenoah can take a beating... and its a risk I took buying it used. If the RCGF goes bad I have spare waiting to be mounted.

So far however 40 minutes of run time, not single problem on the RCGF 62. I had more to learn when I ran my first big Moki long time ago and most of it was user error. Maybe experience helps with some of these shoddy work but for someone new... I can only wish them luck or find someone like Henry that can help. Only advices is to make sure you have US warranty, Ebay or buying used is a big risk.

Anyone run the YD-57 with Zinger 20x8-14 paddles? or a DLE55? Those were my other options.

Nice job! Keep that prop safe for testing since you have started a database.