SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well boyz, I ran the DLE and it didn't make more rpm than the Syssa on a 18x6W reported in this thread.
So, the Syssa has rear induction as standard, is more compact, may be smoother and likes to rev. Congratuations to the Syssa owners.
So, the Syssa has rear induction as standard, is more compact, may be smoother and likes to rev. Congratuations to the Syssa owners.
#2703
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I don't own Zoars in this size range. Only APC, Bolly, Mejzlik and Vess. I posted rpm data in the Tach forum for the MT35 and DLE30 to keep this thread pure. I won't mention these other engines in this thread again. If you would like to ask questions or make comments go to those threads or pm me.
The Syssa spins the Vess 18x6 so well I don't see the need to run the Vess 19A, you won't get any gains in power, maybe reduced noise?
The Syssa spins the Vess 18x6 so well I don't see the need to run the Vess 19A, you won't get any gains in power, maybe reduced noise?
#2705
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was at Syssa's shop yesterday and he really got my engine singing! It did 8700 with a Vess 18-6 with a 1600 rpm idle and instant throttle response and I only have about 3/4 of a gallon on the dino oil through it! Now I have to get it installed with the pipe on the EF Extra. I am wondering how much covering I have to remove on the bottom?
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I found this interesting and thought I should pass it along.
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Just one question, some having problems keeping the muffler tight on the engine .What are those that have overcome this problem done to fix it?Friend of mine has even gone to the length of fitting Heli-coils ,but is still having problems.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I used 5mm Nordlocks on the 2 screws that hold the muffler on, and 3mm Nordlocks with new stainless steel M3 socket head screws that are longer than stock to compensate for the thickness of the Nordlocks.
#2709
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee
I found this interesting and thought I should pass it along.
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
I found this interesting and thought I should pass it along.
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
#2710
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Truckracer
Congratulations, you have just discovered the difference between an oil that is combustible and one that just passes throught the engine. That is exactly why more (combustible) oil means more power from the engine.
ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee
I found this interesting and thought I should pass it along.
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
I found this interesting and thought I should pass it along.
I was running Mobil 2T straight synthetic at 30:1 in two other engines. Switched to Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 and got a 200 rpm increase in performance!
BCCHI.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: GSK
Just one question, some having problems keeping the muffler tight on the engine .What are those that have overcome this problem done to fix it?Friend of mine has even gone to the length of fitting Heli-coils ,but is still having problems.
Just one question, some having problems keeping the muffler tight on the engine .What are those that have overcome this problem done to fix it?Friend of mine has even gone to the length of fitting Heli-coils ,but is still having problems.
I am using a header pipe and they kept loosening as well. Because the aluminum header material is relatively soft - and the contact area small - the Nordlocks were not a viable solution. I ended up drilling the bolt heads and made a "clip" from 5/64" piano wire, and the bolts have held fine since. It should be even easier to do this with the Pitts muffler by making the piano wire in a bracket [ shape, inserting it through the SCHS bolt heads and bending it a little.
#2712
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Use multiple locking washers on each side should help.
I decided not to use big IC engines of (other brands) on my pattern ships because of non-stopping maintenance. Did not want to say anything negative about IC engines. But in reality electric power system is much better in this area.
I decided not to use big IC engines of (other brands) on my pattern ships because of non-stopping maintenance. Did not want to say anything negative about IC engines. But in reality electric power system is much better in this area.
#2713
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
I am interested to hear how the Nordlock washers work on the muffler. I am using them on the engine stand-offs and they are working quite well.
I am using a header pipe and they kept loosening as well. Because the aluminum header material is relatively soft - and the contact area small - the Nordlocks were not a viable solution. I ended up drilling the bolt heads and made a ''clip'' from 5/64'' piano wire, and the bolts have held fine since. It should be even easier to do this with the Pitts muffler by making the piano wire in a bracket [ shape, inserting it through the SCHS bolt heads and bending it a little.
ORIGINAL: GSK
Just one question, some having problems keeping the muffler tight on the engine .What are those that have overcome this problem done to fix it?Friend of mine has even gone to the length of fitting Heli-coils ,but is still having problems.
Just one question, some having problems keeping the muffler tight on the engine .What are those that have overcome this problem done to fix it?Friend of mine has even gone to the length of fitting Heli-coils ,but is still having problems.
I am using a header pipe and they kept loosening as well. Because the aluminum header material is relatively soft - and the contact area small - the Nordlocks were not a viable solution. I ended up drilling the bolt heads and made a ''clip'' from 5/64'' piano wire, and the bolts have held fine since. It should be even easier to do this with the Pitts muffler by making the piano wire in a bracket [ shape, inserting it through the SCHS bolt heads and bending it a little.
I switched props to Mejzlik 18X6 on stock muffler. I got 9200 RPMs on the ground. Was flying great until I had a radio cliche. I had no control until about 3 ft from the deck, slammed through a huge tumbeweed and amazingly recovered!!! I flew it back about 75 yards and landed her like a B-17 coming back from a mission over Berlin. HOLY@$#%!!
She took some flack horizontals,elevator, left wing, flap and aileron required complete recovering. The good news, the Giant Stick airframe is good to go. THis is one RUGGID model!
The Syssa stayed running and helped me save the plane.
#2714
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I have most of the airframe done on the EF Extra, so now I am working on the Syssa and pipe. I machined the counterbores on the exhaust manifold to accept the M5 sized Nordlock and SHCS. As you can see, there is plenty of wall thickness leftover as well. I then drilled and tapped(6-32 thread)the carb reference plate to accept a Du-bro pressure fitting for a glow engine. It was installed with some epoxy, then when it was cured, a Dremel with a sanding drum took care of the excess threads on the inside. I think I have a coupler solution as well, but tbd on that one!
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: nonstoprc
Use multiple locking washers on each side should help.
I decided not to use big IC engines of (other brands) on my pattern ships because of non-stopping maintenance. Did not want to say anything negative about IC engines. But in reality electric power system is much better in this area.
Use multiple locking washers on each side should help.
I decided not to use big IC engines of (other brands) on my pattern ships because of non-stopping maintenance. Did not want to say anything negative about IC engines. But in reality electric power system is much better in this area.
The SAP-180 with the ES 30G tuned pipe changed the game. There have been some teething pains with this new baby, but one by one the kinks are getting worked out and eventually it will require no more maintenance effort than electric, and far less than big-bore glow engine.
I was flying this morning and testing a couple of other props. I have decided that the best off-the-rack APC prop is going to be one of the 18x10's. I have an 18.1x10 (current pattern design) on order after trying the 17x12 and 18.1x12 pattern props and finding that they did not handle the vertical element as well as the older-design 18x10, which is probably not quite as good as the 18.1x10. The current 18x10 does unlimited vertical pulls with authority.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
So about how many mAh's per flight does this IBE use, and which batteries are you using? Any redundancy?
I don't know anywhere near enough about electronics to make a case one way or the other, but my current set-up is extremely lightweight and offers a nice safety margin (also with ''fail on'' switches), just what one wants in pattern. Maybe a bit of overkill for sport flying, though a nice plane is a nice plane and we all hate to see one go down. I did have a Li-lon go bad last year in my 50cc AW Yak, and the dual redundancy in that instance almost certainly saved a nice plane.
The ONE important thing I do understand about model airplane electronics is that it pays to check batteries after every flight with a load-test meter. I use the No-BS meter with the .5- and 1-amp loads.
So about how many mAh's per flight does this IBE use, and which batteries are you using? Any redundancy?
I don't know anywhere near enough about electronics to make a case one way or the other, but my current set-up is extremely lightweight and offers a nice safety margin (also with ''fail on'' switches), just what one wants in pattern. Maybe a bit of overkill for sport flying, though a nice plane is a nice plane and we all hate to see one go down. I did have a Li-lon go bad last year in my 50cc AW Yak, and the dual redundancy in that instance almost certainly saved a nice plane.
The ONE important thing I do understand about model airplane electronics is that it pays to check batteries after every flight with a load-test meter. I use the No-BS meter with the .5- and 1-amp loads.
Frank
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ghoffman
I was at Syssa's shop yesterday and he really got my engine singing! It did 8700 with a Vess 18-6 with a 1600 rpm idle and instant throttle response and I only have about 3/4 of a gallon on the dino oil through it! Now I have to get it installed with the pipe on the EF Extra. I am wondering how much covering I have to remove on the bottom?
I was at Syssa's shop yesterday and he really got my engine singing! It did 8700 with a Vess 18-6 with a 1600 rpm idle and instant throttle response and I only have about 3/4 of a gallon on the dino oil through it! Now I have to get it installed with the pipe on the EF Extra. I am wondering how much covering I have to remove on the bottom?
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Did I miss the answer to that question? How much MAh does the Syssa and servos use for one hour of flying? There is some concern that one battery for the Rx and ignition is tempting fate WRT the IBE. http://www.syssaaircraft.com/cart/pc...&idcategory=11
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: jst
Hi,
At present, how many days does it take to ship from the time an order is made?
Hi,
At present, how many days does it take to ship from the time an order is made?
Seems like they were caught up with backorders for a while, but perhaps there's been another wave of orders. I plan to order another one in the next couple of months.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
During some heavy duty flying (using the controls and throttle quite a bit and aggressively) I fly my 12 pound Yak with the IBE and RX using a Fromeco 1200 Li Fe (A123).
After a quantity of 3, 15 minute flights plus some pre-flight checks and run up on the ground, I put (pretty consistently) 400-430 mah back into the battery. Doing a load/time check on the battery plotted on the PC it shows the battery maintains 6.6 volts right until the end...which is at 950 mah (if I remember correctly).
If I fly more than 4 flights, I just hit the battery quick with the charger....its LiFe so it can be charged in a few minutes if need be.
After a quantity of 3, 15 minute flights plus some pre-flight checks and run up on the ground, I put (pretty consistently) 400-430 mah back into the battery. Doing a load/time check on the battery plotted on the PC it shows the battery maintains 6.6 volts right until the end...which is at 950 mah (if I remember correctly).
If I fly more than 4 flights, I just hit the battery quick with the charger....its LiFe so it can be charged in a few minutes if need be.
#2724
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ghoffman
I machined the counterbores on the exhaust manifold to accept the M5 sized Nordlock and SHCS.
I machined the counterbores on the exhaust manifold to accept the M5 sized Nordlock and SHCS.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I buy them in boxes of 200, because I use them in race car applications. I am going to put up a Syssa pack of them up on my website later this week.