Cosmicwind

Has anyone compared the Syssa to the OS 33? I am looking for a 30cc engine and am considering several models. I do like the idea of supporting a US manufacturer. Sorry if this has already been asked. I did not go through all the pages of this thread.

Thanks for your comments.
Dave

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

I have not fired my Syssa engine up yet but it has the look of a quality built engine. For the money that you pay for these engines you would think they could have tapped the end of the prop shaft for your spinner bolt. So if your planning on using a spinner add another $15.00 on for the expense of an adaptor.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My Syssa came with one from the factory. i bought it with the engine

MTK

I have. OS is a little stronger but may have factory defects on some of their examples. Mine broke it's backplate on the second flight I took with the engine. TowerHobbies took a month to repair it. Then I had one heck of a time getting the thingto hand start. Bought a dynatron starter for it. Beware, it has to be choked and primed first before the dynatron can turn it. It's a higher compression engine that's designed to turn considerable lumber at around 7500 rpm. If I were to hazard a guess, I'd say it's OS design and Chinese made. That's why it is as "inexpensive" as it is.... Parts are very expensive. Take a look at Tower's website for part prices...OUCH!! 280$ US for a CDI is outrageous

The SAP develops a slightly lower power and needs to turn higher rpm with a smaller load. But a more docile, dependable engine to play with hasn't been built. Really simple to hand start and the engine just loves to spool up. In some 700 flighst over 2 1/2 years I don't recall a dead stick due to engine failure

So I'd say it depends a lot on what you want to put the engine in and how you are going to fly it. Also, how sensitive you are to new part pricing. Repairs, well, Hobby Services service was rather poor

MTK

I have. OS is a little stronger but may have factory defects on some of their examples. Mine broke it's backplate on the second flight I took with the engine. TowerHobbies took a month to repair it. Then I had one heck of a time getting the thingto hand start. Bought a dynatron starter and 6S lipo for it. Beware, it has to be choked and primed first before the dynatron can turn it. It's a higher compression engine that's designed to turn considerable lumber at around 7500 rpm. If I were to hazard a guess, I'd say it's OS design and Chinese made. That's why it is as "inexpensive" as it is.... Parts are very expensive tho. Take a look at Tower's website for part prices...OUCH!! 280$ US for a CDI is outrageous

The SAP develops a slightly lower power and needs to turn higher rpm with a smaller load. But a more docile, dependable engine to play with hasn't been built. Really simple to hand start and the engine just loves to spool up. In some 700 flighst over 2 1/2 years I don't recall a dead stick due to engine failure

So I'd say it depends a lot on what you want to put the engine in and how you are going to fly it. Also, how sensitive you are to new part pricing. Repairs, well, Hobby Services service was rather poor

Slow and Steady

I bought the SAP 180 based on its perceived quality and that it is an American company, and despite its price. As has been said, quality is enjoyed long after price is forgotten. And while the OS is $10 cheaper than the SAP, I believe the OS is 4 ounces heavier. Regarding repair turn around, my DLE 55 was turned around in approximately 10 days by Hobby Services. I have a hard time accepting the venerable OS is not made well, despite your experience, but I will check other threads to see if your experience is not unusual. While both of these engines have unique features and should be considered based on the user's expectations, the DLE 30 may also deserve consideration based on price, weight, availability of service, cost of replacement parts and overall dependability.

Slow and Steady

In fairness to Syssa, I should add that the owner has made repairs to my engine without charge on at least 3 occassions. And while some of the repairs have been apparently due to engine component failure, there were also repairs made due to pilot error, with no questions asked. I don't know if OS, DLE or Tower's Hobby Services would extend that level of service.

canineboss

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys I have a Phoenix Models Edge 540 90-120  what do you think about using the Syssa 30cc motor on this plane.. I'm new to Gassers so any help on what I might have to change from the Glow design would be Greatly appreciated.

canineboss

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys I have a Phoenix Models Edge 540 90-120  what do you think about using the Syssa 30cc motor on this plane.. I'm new to Gassers so any help on what I might have to change from the Glow design would be Greatly appreciated.

canineboss

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys I have a Phoenix Models Edge 540 90-120 what do you think about using the Syssa 30cc motor on this plane.. I'm new to Gassers so any help on what I might have to change from the Glow design would be Greatly appreciated.

Sorry about the multiple post. .I'm currently deployed to the big sandbox. we call Afghanistan and the internet kept going down as I sent this. I didn't realize it had posted it three times

AJsToyz

Looks like a 65" wingspan and roughly 9 lbs. You would have a ton of power to spare!

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

And maybe some tailweight to add!

I have a plane that needs nose weight.
What happens to the flight characteristics of a plane if you extend the motor mount?

Thanks
Bob

MTK

I've been keeping an eye out for others experience with the OS too. There appear to be only a couple handfuls that use the engine and nobody else has had my experience with broken backplate. I couldn't care less if it was the "venerable OS" the "untouchable DA" or "cheapo DLE", or who have you....it's a mechanical beast and it will fail. OS has been around a long time, almost as long as me, and I've seen them put out their share of lemons. Did they do that knowingly? I don't think so!

However I've seen a bunch of reports where people have had a difficult time getting the engine to hand start. The factory recommends a starter so that's an extra expense not figured in the original price. That will set you back at least 200$ is you had to buy everything new..... I bought a dynatron, 2 3S 2200ma lipos and a charger, and assembly was required of course

Talking OS, the latest issue in MAN has a very short brief on some bench running the author did. His numbers were off quite a bit from the numbers I've seen on mine

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Geez....
The beauty of the gas engines isn't just the cheap fuel to me. It the ease of hand starting and the fact very little, other than your radio, the plane, and some type of gas can w/pump needs to go into your car or carted from that to the flight line. The "recommended" starter and difficult hand starting totaly queers the OS for me. There's too many choices available that don't require that?

While I'm here/Regarding the Syssa exhaust issue...
Mine has also gotten to the point it wont stay tight for more than a couple tanks of gas - as others have posted prior. I've filed/sanded off the fretting/pitting from the muffler to assure a flat mounting surface, and tried various methods of assuring the bolts aren't backing off.

This last time around, I've noticed the rear of the muffler is now a concave shape/caved in a little? It appears the internal stand off tubes/spacers have worked themselves right through the plate forming the back of the mufffler? Is this unique to mine, or is everyone having this problem? It would indicate to me that my bolts aren't necessarily backing off, so much as the muffler thickness is changing, allowing them to loose their tension?

Anyway, I've now reinstalled it with snug fitting metal washers against the back (now concave) muffler surface, so the internal posts can push on those, then installed a thin strip of aluminum with holes drilled for the mounting bolts, where I can bend "ears" against one of the flats on the hex bolts in a manner that will not allow the hex bolts to turn. Not a new idea, these are used in a lot of different places on other stuff, I just don't know what they are called. I though this easier than messing with the safety wire, and very easily made from scrap. How well this works remains to be seen. FWIW -Al

Joystick TX

I got my bolts too tight and had deformed the muffler too. Went to big washers and a piece of aluminum scrap between the two bolts. I found that the best thing for mine was to use 0.032 " safety wire and make it really tight. I get about 6 to 8 flights before I need to tighnen again.

Part of my routine now, while I'm checking all the other stuff that gets loose and falls off.

MsgtRob

Hello Joystick! Hope your getting some good flying weather!

Loose mufflers: It's easy enough to check/fix on my Giant Stick with no cowl, but to do it every other flight on my Corsair is unacceptable and not happening. My final solution for the Corsair's currently loose muffler bolts is an Aerovate 45 CC. KMP Pitts muffler turning a 19 X10 three blade should get the job done.

Syssa needs to release a better design before I'll look at another.

hyflyer9

I have been watching this issue with the muffler problems and when i first say my new Syssa 30cc i noticed the back plate on the muffler and thaught to myself that it looks a little to thin and it would probably be efected from the heat the engine gives off when running and even though you all have your bolts tight with lock tight and safety wired it is still coming loose whitch is a sighn that it is not the bolts but the back plate it self that is causing the problem . Has any one tried to tighten the bolts with the engine still hot after running it may just do the trick because if the back plate is flexing do to the heat then tighten it while hot and it may not have any more flex and when it cools it will be all that more tight .
Any way just a thought .

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Joystick, others-
Deformed is surely what it looks like, but the fact those posts are now protruding through that back plate - you believe is due to over tightening? I'm wondering how that post wore through the back plate without a lot of vibration/movement. That's not something that's going to be present with over torqued bolts?

I'm wondering if it might better be called poor material selection and/or design if I'm not the only one with this issue. If those internal spacers were of a larger thickness/OD, that might give a little more support/bearing area, that would carry the load of these bolts?

Don't get me wrong please. Not trying to stir anything up - only promote ideas leading to a fix for this issue. The idea of scrapping this engine, or confining it to use on a Stick is not very appealing. If it takes a little experimenting, so be it? Maybe the cure won't be so bad if everyone is contributing.... -Al

MsgtRob

Your not stiring anything up!

My three SAP 180's suffer from loose muffler bolts after various fix attempts. That tells me it's a design/materials issue. I'll continue to run the stick but my Stearman and Corsair are up for new motors. Pulling cowls again and again is no fun. Besides, I can trade two lbs of lead for 15 more cc's and more scale 3 blade prop on the Corsair.

MsgtRob

Deleted double post.

Slow and Steady

At a minimum I would contact Syssa about a replacement for a failed part. They sometimes review the comments on this site and may want to add some suggestions. My Syssa is on a Funtana and I can not tighten the exhaust bolts without pulling the engine - alot of work for a recurring problem. Hopefully Syssa finds a solution.

Regarding the OS, using a starter is a non starter for me. Would not consider buying the OS, as some have noted if starter mandatory to start.

Joystick TX

I have provided my suggestions and concerns to Todd and he has been very receptive. I'm sure others have done the same.Sincewe would all like to see a fix, it is now up to Todd to come up with one that will make us all happy. Well, most of us anyway.

panhndl

My Feedback: (10)

I put silicone gasket maker on my muffler bolts threads and never have had one of them come loose. I use gasket maker on threads where I feel flex is more important than a solid connection, like in metal geared servos on the control horn screw. I've never had many problems with screws coming loose and the gasket maker is pretty easy to remove if you need to.

Syssa Aircraft

The muffler is in the works. Will be updating shortly.

Model 10

Hello all
just got my new syssa 30cc eng .....think it only needs a...... lock washer....... with the flat washer that is on my eng.....or just a lock washer only.....

muffler is getting to hot and not enough air getting to it to pull off the heat.......it's only one inch wide so the back plate is getting full heat all the time ....if you run the eng. to lean it even hotter....