anyone tried this spinner?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: spiro,
OK
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/Carbon%2...20Spinners.htm I'm looking at puttting one of these on a DL50. Has anyone tried one of these yet? Will they hold up on this engine? I've read where plastic spinners dont last long on gassers. This one is fiberglass and I've not seen anything about them yet. It will match my plane and prop. Whats your thoughts?
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Egg Harbor City,
NJ
I had the red 3 3/8" on a 50cc engine.
They are very very light weight.
The hardest thing I had was making the prop cut outs to match the prop hub mounting hole ( in the backplate ) to match the four little srews that hold the spinner onto the backing plate.
Getting all three in the right spot and keeping the prop cut as small as posible is a real pain.
I lost one of the small spinner bolts and the rest of it ended up cracking.
It is nice quality, it could have just been me and the way I did it. [&o]
I like and am sticking to spinners with the single center bolt.
No alignment problems, one bolt, easy to use.
They are very very light weight.
The hardest thing I had was making the prop cut outs to match the prop hub mounting hole ( in the backplate ) to match the four little srews that hold the spinner onto the backing plate.
Getting all three in the right spot and keeping the prop cut as small as posible is a real pain.
I lost one of the small spinner bolts and the rest of it ended up cracking.
It is nice quality, it could have just been me and the way I did it. [&o]
I like and am sticking to spinners with the single center bolt.
No alignment problems, one bolt, easy to use.
#4
Senior Member
I wouldn't put one of those on anything bigger than an .049. I have used 3 of those types on three different planes, and they all did the same thing, threw the screws out and they were aluminum. The problem is when the prop holes are cut out, you can't tell if their balanced, if they are out of balance, which they will be, the screws can't stay in. One came apart in the air, and shattered the prop. NOT GOOD.
I will say though, they are pretty, just design a better way to hold them together.
I will say though, they are pretty, just design a better way to hold them together.
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
I've been using the same spinner in different colors from Esprit Models, PAU, and Bisson Mufflers for a couple of years now on planes ranging from 50 to 100cc's in size. I have them now on a 35% Edge and a 40% Giles. A bit larger than an .049. I'll likely be using the same on a 46% Ultimate driven with a 150. Had them on a 35% Sukhoi, a 29% Ultimate, and a 28% Edge. The one on the Ultimate was only partially deformed during the crash of the Ultimate after wing flutter blew the wings off it. In that time I've managed to lose six screws because I failed to tighten them down. You should not start an engine until you tighten the spinner screws.... I lost two screws to reasons best described as unknown. I do not use thread lock compunds on the spinner screws.
I've not had any spinner cracks or failures, and re-painting to match covering has worked out extremely well if I took the time to prep the fiberglass the way 'glass should always be prepped for paint. Sand and wash. The are very light, with a 4-1/2 to 5" spinner coming in at 4 to 4-1/2 ounces. Cutting is actually quite easy if the planning is done correctly. Obtain a "shaoemaker" from a hardware store to obtain a reproducable shape of the prop. Make a cutting template on a piece of poster board stock. Measure for height offsets between the raised center portion of the spinner and the lip the spinner cone sets into. Usually you'll need to raise the height of the cut about 2 or 3mm higher than the prop thickness. Allow for that when you mark the spinner for cutting. You don't need to center the prop between outer bolt locations, just leave enough edge material to provide some area support at bolt holes. The leading edge of a prop can extend over and above a bolt hole without any issues whatsoever.
The only precaution I would take I've already noted. Place an order with Microfasteners for some spare 3m x 6m button head screws in the color you prefer. Nickle or black.
I've not had any spinner cracks or failures, and re-painting to match covering has worked out extremely well if I took the time to prep the fiberglass the way 'glass should always be prepped for paint. Sand and wash. The are very light, with a 4-1/2 to 5" spinner coming in at 4 to 4-1/2 ounces. Cutting is actually quite easy if the planning is done correctly. Obtain a "shaoemaker" from a hardware store to obtain a reproducable shape of the prop. Make a cutting template on a piece of poster board stock. Measure for height offsets between the raised center portion of the spinner and the lip the spinner cone sets into. Usually you'll need to raise the height of the cut about 2 or 3mm higher than the prop thickness. Allow for that when you mark the spinner for cutting. You don't need to center the prop between outer bolt locations, just leave enough edge material to provide some area support at bolt holes. The leading edge of a prop can extend over and above a bolt hole without any issues whatsoever.
The only precaution I would take I've already noted. Place an order with Microfasteners for some spare 3m x 6m button head screws in the color you prefer. Nickle or black.
#6
I've used several of them and others of the same design for years. If you do it rightthey work great, cutting the prop holes incorrectly,not usinglocktite onthe screws, or not balancing them is not the fault of the spinner.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CAMDEN,
TN
I bought one. They look great and are very light. I didn't use it because I needed more weight on the nose to balance. I gave it to a friend in need and it lasted only a few flights before coming apart and destroying his prop. Maybe a balance problem, maybe not. Either way they are to fragile for me.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Egg Harbor City,
NJ
I balance mine on my prop balancer.
I use velcro ( loop side ) on the inside of the spinner and add thick CA glue to balance it.
The back plate, I drill into it to remove weight ( heavy side ).
I balance the backplate and spinner seperate.
I use velcro ( loop side ) on the inside of the spinner and add thick CA glue to balance it.
The back plate, I drill into it to remove weight ( heavy side ).
I balance the backplate and spinner seperate.



