This seems like a good follow up to MetallicaJunkies Hall Sensor thread.

So how can you tell that the ignition module is going bad.

Let me start with this. I have the MT57 whcih I like and like the service I have received.

Lately though, the engine is hard to start. I flip and flip when it used to be a choke on flip, choke off flip and couple more times and away I go.

Now it is back firing, sputters and dies. When it catches, it runs sporatically and keeps going or dies again, I have found that I am starting with 5 to 6 clicks of throttle and it starts with high idle, but is still sounding like its cutting out until I clear it out and run it up. Then it seems to run alright, until I fly up to do a stall turn and... or crud now I gotta land, engine quit. My good friend jon595 had me do all the typical trouble shooting.
We made sure the battery is good. It is. Bypasses the ignition switch. It was done. But even after bypassing the switch, it was still doing the same thing. Hmmm. I know that these igitions are set for max advance and internally retard for starting. Could it be that the internal advancing is locked up in the middle somehow??? I know here recently I have felt the engine is just not reving up like it used to and now it's really just not running right at all. any thoughts. Thanks

I would check the timing to make sure, however I think you may have a cracked reed.

I have an ignition i can lend you if you wanna try it out... PM me if interested

If all is well with the engine, You may have the idle set too lean, or have some debris in the carb idle cirquit. The MT57 behaves like that with lean idle and engine still cold.

Hi Jake, I did check the timing and it was still right there at around 28-30 degrees.
I would think you are on to something there about a cracked reed with all the backfiring. Didn't occur to me until you said something.

MetallicaJunkie, Thanks. I may very well take you up on that offer. Looks like I'll pull the cowling off and reall check things out first. I sent an email to Tomy and Mr. Jack and still have not heard back. Hmmm?

pe reivers, I will check out the carb theory out too. I think perhaps that I am past warm up mode after a few passes by the time it dies. But you never know. Seems like transition on the ground is good, but it dies when I come back to a low idle.

This is why I ask, I know you guys have the good suggestions. I'll get it sorted out. Like my old autoshop instructor always said "Mr Boswell, you haven't learned all there is to know about that carburator" Did not matter if it was the carb or the trans, always got the same reply. Used to slay me, but I always figured it out some how.
Thanks

I agree, sounds like it's time to get a carb rebuilt kit....

Pull the jug and see how much carbon is on the piston and make sure the ring is not stuck.

And you have another RCEXL ignition that came with the DA 50 I sold you...........

Yes, I have an ignition for the DA 50, the DL 50, and a couple of other engines.
But the kicker is that all of those awesome ignitions are designed for a small little spark plug and the spark plug on my engine is huge. I'm not ready to slice and dice.
Actually, I think it would be quicker to just plug the MT's mounting holes, re-drill and mount one of the other engines.

I will be pulling the motor and checking things out. Hmmm, still no reply from Tomy to my email inquiry? My warranty must have ran out.

The size of the plug doesn't matter.

The plug gap maybe? But not the plug itself

I was referring to the cap size. I offered up the other ignitions to the spark plug on my 57 and they will just not go on it. The spark plug caps are too small, they are made for the NGK CM6 and the plug in my MT57 is almost as big as mylawnmower's plug. It's huge in comparison. or am i missing something?

You can just take off the plug caps and exchange them.

Sounds like my 26cc when my ignition pooped out. I was lucky enough to have the same ignition on another engine, now it runs perfect. It would not idle good and was very hard to start. If you can switch it with another I would try it, if it starts easier its and idles good its probably the ignition.

Andy

Well you need to do something if you want to practice w/ me and Scott this Saturday afternoon at Spencer, hint, hint.

I will swap out the cap if you want.

Hi Andy, I have to agree with you on that. Jon595 was there when it was blasting flames out the exhaust.

Jon, I will hopefully have my Sukhoi ready to fly with any luck. Scott and I are almost finished putting the cannister in it.
Just been busy. You know how it is.

How long does it take to change caps? I don't want to wreck a good ignition on this 4 gallon motor.

I did finally get an email back from Tomy of MT Engines. He apologizes for the delay, they are out of town (kind of suspected that).
He has been good about fast replies to me in the past.
However, he wants me to try and advance my timing even more?
Alright, I'll give it all a try and then yank the bad ignition off and replace it. Or eat crow if I find it was something simple like a bad battery. I have just put a new good battery in it, but even a new and good battery can go bad. we'll see

Well, I looked at everything and here is what I found.
My timing was not as advanced as it could be. It also is apparent that I am barely able to get 28-30 degrees with the Hall
sensor on this engine. This is the third engine I have had. This engine now has close to 9 gallons through it.
Sorry, I can't keep track of all the hoops jumped through with this engine. The first two had bad bearings and out of round
prop hubs not installed in the center, so no wonder those shook and wore out the bearnings.
Anyway...
So, I advanced the timing to max advance for the hall sensor. I will have to alter it to get any more.
Both my high and low needles were a little rich. I had previoulsy tuned for max and then just a couple clicks back rich.
So, I get it re-tuned and it is running better and I put in a few flights.
Land and now I think I see my trouble is the case gasket is beginning to leak. I see a small amount of clean oil residue
after each flight now. Engine is mounted inverted and the residue is on top of the case.
Well, not too bad after 9ish gallons. Probably get back the lost RPM after I replace the case gasket.
Well, at least it wasn't another bad battery.
So, the ignition module is good, it makes a blue spark, and the engine runs.
My problems were basically all user induced or remedied for the most part.
Thanks again guys
It does help to have additional input to figure out the simple suff somethimes.

Any little leak in the case will make them aggravating to get going like was described in the first post