DL50 what oil ratio?
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
well, guys, to be honest i was ready to use lawnboy oil for my brake in.......brand new DEL55, so whats the best one for brake in....and which one for later use. Also how many tanks on each radio and oil.
Best Regards,
Best Regards,
#27
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
Readmy previous post, there is no reason to run a different oil for break in than you would like to use long term. Many different oils will work well, the mix ratio is more important than the brand name although Lawnboy and Amsoil are two that Iwould not consider based on my own experience and having the benefit of being able to see the inside ofmany engines run on many different oils.
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Readmy previous post, there is no reason to run a different oil for break in than you would like to use long term. Many different oils will work well, the mix ratio is more important than the brand name although Lawnboy and Amsoil are two that Iwould not consider based on my own experience and having the benefit of being able to see the inside ofmany engines run on many different oils.
Readmy previous post, there is no reason to run a different oil for break in than you would like to use long term. Many different oils will work well, the mix ratio is more important than the brand name although Lawnboy and Amsoil are two that Iwould not consider based on my own experience and having the benefit of being able to see the inside ofmany engines run on many different oils.
Best Regards,
#31
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
The basics are tune the engine for best performance, use a good oil and enough of it, don't perform hovers, torque rolls, knife edge spins, and waterfalls for the first several tanks, and don't run hot. Any of those maneuvers just about completely cut off all airflow through the engine. Something you don't want a new engine to experience. The first couple of gallons of gas and the way you treat the engine while burning that gas will determine how well your engine performs for the rest of its life. Break in is generally considered complete when the piston rings have developed a silver shine and lost any rough machine marks. So fly some fun basic aerobatics for at least the first gallon (preferably two) and avoid 3d during that period.
A couple of other oils that are high on the list are Motul 800 and Royal Purple, both at 50-1. The Motul is very, very close to the Redline in composition and quality.
A couple of other oils that are high on the list are Motul 800 and Royal Purple, both at 50-1. The Motul is very, very close to the Redline in composition and quality.
#32
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
ORIGINAL: f5air
thanks a lot Jody, so Penzoil for air cooled engines, Stihl, Echo, Redline, BeRay are the ones that i can use, 32:1 for brake in(how many tanks) and then 50:1. I just need to see that the oil bottle says for 2 strokes and air cooled engines right?. Sorry this will be my first gasser so i need a direction to follow.
Best Regards,
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Read my previous post, there is no reason to run a different oil for break in than you would like to use long term. Many different oils will work well, the mix ratio is more important than the brand name although Lawnboy and Amsoil are two that I would not consider based on my own experience and having the benefit of being able to see the inside of many engines run on many different oils.
Read my previous post, there is no reason to run a different oil for break in than you would like to use long term. Many different oils will work well, the mix ratio is more important than the brand name although Lawnboy and Amsoil are two that I would not consider based on my own experience and having the benefit of being able to see the inside of many engines run on many different oils.
Best Regards,
#33
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
As Isaid in my diatribe, there are other oils that will work well besides the ones listed but the ones listed are some of the best and ones I've had personal experience with. If you are not going to run your engine to hot, to lean and not going to lug it down to 5000 RPM at full throttle, then even oils with a much lower quality level mixed at sensible ratios will serve you well, may require a little more maintenance but they will protect your engine from all but the most severe running conditions. As far as ratings go, I would choose an oil with an API service rating of TC or TC+, and or oil with the JASO certification FB or FC.
I use a high quality synthetic oil so Idon't run heavy oil ratios for a long break in period. I run 32:1 for 2 or 3 tanks only, if you wanted to make it easy just mix 1 gallon at 32:1 and use that up. This is more of a running in proccess, not a complete break in, that will take many more gallons and the length of time varies from engine to engine, many variables go into it. My running in is always with the same oil that I will use for the life of the engine.
I use a high quality synthetic oil so Idon't run heavy oil ratios for a long break in period. I run 32:1 for 2 or 3 tanks only, if you wanted to make it easy just mix 1 gallon at 32:1 and use that up. This is more of a running in proccess, not a complete break in, that will take many more gallons and the length of time varies from engine to engine, many variables go into it. My running in is always with the same oil that I will use for the life of the engine.
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
jody, found a Stihl dealer close to me, which oil is......i saw like 4 different ones. Also if you can part # will be help. http://www.stihlusa.com/accessories/twocycleoil.html
I will try that one.
I will try that one.
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
got your pm Jody.....really nice from you to help everyone here, thats a nice touch. I will call tomorrow the store and get some 6 pack of 2.6oz.
best regards,
best regards,
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
Does any body have problems with the bearings on the DL 55, i own one that i run all ready 8 gallons of fuel mixed 100 :1 with AMSOIL SABER and 87 octanes gas and i stat feeling some bearing noise
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
ORIGINAL: Rcpilot
After seeing what a few hundred gallons of Amsoil at 88:1 does to a DA100....... I'd never use the stuff.
My friend has a DA100 with serial number 160. It's OLD and has been run on Amsoil at 88:1 for it's entire life. He is the third owner, so no telling how many gallons of fuel have been run through the engine. I think it's safe to say several hundred at least. I know he's personally run at least 50 gallons through it.
It was low on power, so he called DA to ask about a rebuild. They told him between $400 - $500 for new cylinders, pistons, rings and seals. He is self-employed and not working much lately, so he couldn't afford the $$$ to have DA rebuild it. He asked DA if a new set of rings might freshen it up. They said it wouldn't hurt, but don't expect miracles. For $13 it was worth a shot.
We took the cowl off and removed the cylinders. There was BLACK HARD CARBON deposits on top of BOTH pistons. It was like 60 grit sand paper and would NOT wipe off easily. It was hard like a diamond. I picked at it just for a few seconds with an exacto knife to see how thick it was and how hard. I didn't want to damage the piston, so I spent minimal effort trying to scrape off a tiny piece of carbon. It was hard as a rock and probably a few thousandths thick.
Both rings were stuck in the ring grooves. The ring grooves had hard black carbon too. We cleaned the ring grooves a little after removing the rings. The right side ring was stuck so bad I had to break it to get it out. It was LOCKED UP in the ring groove from carbon deposits. It's no wonder the engine was low on power.
We inspected the cylinders. Hard carbon deposits on the top of the combustion chamber. No big surprise after seeing the pistons.
Installed the new rings. Use a little 3-n-1 oil for reassembly.
We then ran 2 gallons of fuel through it with my preferred oil. Husqvarna XP at 32:1 for break in. This is a half synthetic and half mineral oil product. The plane was flown doing the 2009 Sportsman sequences for those 2 gallons. During that time, it's belched out a lot of black spots and also a lot of chunks of carbon deposits.
First few tanks, the performance was mediocre, but thats to be expected. At the end of 2 gallons, the power is back to where it was before we messed with it. I tried talking him into running the same oil (Husqvarna) at 40:1 after the break in - thinking that since it's obviously already started cleaning the engine, it should continue to do so. Getting some of that carbon out would be good for the engine IMO. But he wants to switch to Red Line or Bel Ray or Penzoil.
I expect power to improve over the next 10 or 15 gallons. I don't care what brand of oil he uses. It's his engine. I'm just happy he finally saw the light about Amsoil and decided to quit using the stuff.
Some pictures:
After seeing what a few hundred gallons of Amsoil at 88:1 does to a DA100....... I'd never use the stuff.
My friend has a DA100 with serial number 160. It's OLD and has been run on Amsoil at 88:1 for it's entire life. He is the third owner, so no telling how many gallons of fuel have been run through the engine. I think it's safe to say several hundred at least. I know he's personally run at least 50 gallons through it.
It was low on power, so he called DA to ask about a rebuild. They told him between $400 - $500 for new cylinders, pistons, rings and seals. He is self-employed and not working much lately, so he couldn't afford the $$$ to have DA rebuild it. He asked DA if a new set of rings might freshen it up. They said it wouldn't hurt, but don't expect miracles. For $13 it was worth a shot.
We took the cowl off and removed the cylinders. There was BLACK HARD CARBON deposits on top of BOTH pistons. It was like 60 grit sand paper and would NOT wipe off easily. It was hard like a diamond. I picked at it just for a few seconds with an exacto knife to see how thick it was and how hard. I didn't want to damage the piston, so I spent minimal effort trying to scrape off a tiny piece of carbon. It was hard as a rock and probably a few thousandths thick.
Both rings were stuck in the ring grooves. The ring grooves had hard black carbon too. We cleaned the ring grooves a little after removing the rings. The right side ring was stuck so bad I had to break it to get it out. It was LOCKED UP in the ring groove from carbon deposits. It's no wonder the engine was low on power.
We inspected the cylinders. Hard carbon deposits on the top of the combustion chamber. No big surprise after seeing the pistons.
Installed the new rings. Use a little 3-n-1 oil for reassembly.
We then ran 2 gallons of fuel through it with my preferred oil. Husqvarna XP at 32:1 for break in. This is a half synthetic and half mineral oil product. The plane was flown doing the 2009 Sportsman sequences for those 2 gallons. During that time, it's belched out a lot of black spots and also a lot of chunks of carbon deposits.
First few tanks, the performance was mediocre, but thats to be expected. At the end of 2 gallons, the power is back to where it was before we messed with it. I tried talking him into running the same oil (Husqvarna) at 40:1 after the break in - thinking that since it's obviously already started cleaning the engine, it should continue to do so. Getting some of that carbon out would be good for the engine IMO. But he wants to switch to Red Line or Bel Ray or Penzoil.
I expect power to improve over the next 10 or 15 gallons. I don't care what brand of oil he uses. It's his engine. I'm just happy he finally saw the light about Amsoil and decided to quit using the stuff.
Some pictures:
A "few hundred gallons" and since you notice some wear, you think amsoil is no good???? Maybe amsoil is the reason that it lasted that long!!
#39
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
As rich as we run our hobby engines you have to figure that a few hundred gallons isn't all that much time on the engine. We puke more fuel out the pipes than we convert to useful energy. If you aren't getting 500+ hours out of the engine you're doing something wrong. Perhaps it's the oil.
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
I've run myu DLE 55 (bought from Valley View RC) with 32:1 Penn AC oil since day 1. Now have about 5 gal through it with the same mix and see no reason to change. Turning 7400rpm w/ no deadsticks turnimg a 22x8 Xoar prop and have yet to foul my NGK plug. Why mess with what works??
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
Since we are on oils, I have a question. I have some Opti2 oil sitting around that I would like to use up. Can I mix it at 40:1 and not hurt anything? Originally I was mixing it at 80:1 in my 3W85. Then I got a ZDZ 80. They recommend 40:1 so I went with Pennsoil at 40:1 in all my planes to keep it simple. No problems there, but I have about a quart of the Opti2 and 2 qts of Mobil1 2-cycle to use up plus three little bottles of Pennsoil. Almost a lifetime supply the way I am flying now. Mobil1 says to follow mnftrs. recommendations. That's OK, but Opti2 says to mix 80:1.
#44
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Stihl HP Ultra, white bottles.
Stihl HP Ultra, white bottles.
From a beginners perspective: Last year I switched over to Stihl HP Ultra for all my engines at 50:1 and so far I really like this oil. It was recommended to me by several manufacturers, i.e., Taurus, First Place Engines, etc., and all my gas engines seem to like it. Most of my engines are in warbirds and they seem to run clean and cool with this oil at 50:1 and it doesn't make much mess.
-Ed B.
#45
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RE: DL50 what oil ratio?
ORIGINAL: Jr25
I've run myu DLE 55 (bought from Valley View RC) with 32:1 Penn AC oil since day 1. Now have about 5 gal through it with the same mix and see no reason to change. Turning 7400rpm w/ no deadsticks turnimg a 22x8 Xoar prop and have yet to foul my NGK plug. Why mess with what works??
I've run myu DLE 55 (bought from Valley View RC) with 32:1 Penn AC oil since day 1. Now have about 5 gal through it with the same mix and see no reason to change. Turning 7400rpm w/ no deadsticks turnimg a 22x8 Xoar prop and have yet to foul my NGK plug. Why mess with what works??