I have a new DLE55 which I am breaking in with 5% non-synthetic oil and I only have 2 tanks on it.

The BIG problem is to start the engine. I've had to close the low needle to 3/4 because I had lots of problems back-firing for excess fuel. Now I get the engine to start but it stops in 2 or 3 seconds. Sometimes it backfires again. Sometimes it lasts 5-6 seconds and if I have luck and I advance the throtle slowly and the engine picks up well then the engine runs correctly. It responds perfectly with the throttle, I can idle it forever, it really runs great. If I stop the engine I can start it again with no problem. However if I leave it 15 minutes to cool down I have the same problem again. It can take uo to 20 minutes to start the engine again.

I would really appreciate to receive some help as I don't know what to do.

JoanC

I forgot to say that with the backfiring I have broken 2 props with my chicken-stick, so it really backfires hard.

JoanC

First thing I'd do is check the ignition timing. Also make sure you have a good battery. Check the voltage under load. 5% is a lot of oil. You only need 3%. If your timing is good I'd suspect the ignition or sensor. Your needles should start at about 1.5 and 1.5. The 0.75 on the low is way too lean. The excess fuel could be from the ignition not working properly. If you can take a picture of where your ignition sensor is mounted that might help. Put your prop where you start to feel compression when you take the picture.

What starting procedure are you using? Describe how you cold start your engine.

I know 5% is a high oil content but I prefer to do this in the first tanks before changing to 40:1 synthetic that is the recommended oil content. I've done this with other engines without problem. About the timing, the sensor and magnet are factory mounted. I don't think it is possible to move it.

I closed the needle because it reduced backfiring a lot, and when I can get the engine to work there is good transition and idle.

For battery I use a 2 Lipo with regulator. It is working OK in other engines, and the battery is new and completely charged.

My starting procedure is that first I try to start it at idle. If after 10-15 flips it does not start I close the choke. After the engine fires I open the choke again and after 2 or 3 flips the engine starts. The problem is that it only starts for 2-3 seconds. But it does so every flip or two flips. If I open the throtle a little over idle doesn't help, I think it is more difficult to start then.

What should be the relative position between the magnet and sensor when the piston is at TDC?

JoanC

I usually start it like this:
-Throttle at high idle, choke closed, flip until it pops.
-Throttle at high idle, choke open, 4 flips and it starts every time.
-If it's warm just one flip at idle and no choke.
It works like a clock.

The position of the sensor should be so the magnet is under it at 28 degrees before TDC. So it you're at TDC, then your magnet is 28 degrees to the left of the sensor as you face the plane from the front. I think I got that right but I'm not looking at the engine. You can down load a timing wheel here:
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/timing.html
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/imageEPQ.JPG

Just because the sensor is in a fixed position does not mean they mounted it correctly.

Make sure that the gas line and the prussure pulse line aren't on the wrong nipples on the carb.

Thank you all,

Just changed my ignition box and all problems solved.

JoanC

Cool. Enjoy. It's a nice engine. Mine kicks ARS.