I have a 50CC RCGF and have been told that you definately need plastic push rods on the throttle with a gas engine. I am currently running a metal push rod on the throttle on my 26CC with no problems. Some guys says if you have 2.4 radio and receiver, there is on problem with the metal. Others say even with 2.4 you need the plastic rods..... Your thoughts???

Sometimes, you can get away with it for a while.

It is best to have a non metallic pushrod and have the servo located back from the engine a ways as is practical

2.4 Ghz doesn't seem to be any better than 72 Mhz FM. The RF can get into a servo amplifier and travel to all the servos too

RF sometimes hits when it gets ready too. Maybe everytime you go from left to right down the back straight?

use this...the best for gasser and you can cut for custom size

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXD872&P=7

and

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXFPW7&P=7

Re pushrods for throttle and for elev and rudder: Carbon fiber pushrods are conductive?!? Should they NOT be used for throttle on gassers? How far away should an internal RX antenna (72Mhz) be kept from carbon fiber rudder and elevator pushrods, or must the antenna be routed outside the fuse? TIA

Merry Christmas to All Ya'll,

Richard

Richard, when you use HD ball links like the one i posted here, you are not metal to metal cause as you can see part of them is plastic so you dont have to worry about it. You can use carbon, but i just prefer to get full rods, cut at my custom size and finish.

But, these are stainless steel, suggested to NOT be used for gasser throttle as they conduct ignition interference back to the servo/rest of the system?????

Sincerely,

Richard

this is what you need to avoid.



and this is the correct way both sides. (servo arma and engine arm side too).

OK, but in the condition to avoid, it appears that the arm for the carburetor and in the next frame the servo arm are both plastic and non condutive. That being the case, you should not need to use the ball link arrangement anyway. The clevis is tight to the pushrod, so no rattle, and the clevis is to a plastic arm. !!??? That being said, I like to use a ball link, but i use the inner and outer Nyrod pushrods for my gas throttle setups.

Sincerely,

Richard

I disagree with John. The condition to avoid is just fine. A solid metal pushrod is not the best idea since there are many other better products and materials available that reduce rf issues. 2.4 is open to rf issues just like anything else. Those that believe otherwise are very, very wrong.

That is what I have. I have the ball links on each end with the metal push rod.

The PC board used for the throttle arm is pretty much electrically neutral. The use of a pinned clevis will have a wear issue, but there's no other issue with the installation.

Here is how I do mine. No problems 4 seasons on 72. Switched to 2.4 this season.

Is that a carbon fiber rod? What kind of connector is that on the throttle end?

Looks like a "servo saver". Not really necessary but some prefer to use them to absorb combustion impulse shock and prevent it from reaching the servo. The pulse vibration occurs too fast for the servo saver to react effectively.

I use the carbon rods as well for just about all my throttle installations. Rigid and light. One of the advantages of flying larger planes is you get to position the throttle servo just about anywhere you want it, and straight shots with the linkage are generally the norm. The old glow installations usually had the throttle servo farther away or tucked into locations that required serpentine routing to get to the engine.

carbon rod http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/JAE.188X36.html
linkage http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/SUL562.html