I have noticed the sparkplug cap on my Rc Xcel ignition is a bit loose for my linking....My brother suggested i use a hose clamp to squeeze the plug cap tighter....i put one on and it touches the head of my engine....will that cause any other issues

*edit i am assuming the head and cap are both ground, so it shouldnt matter right?

It shouldn't

RC EXL plug caps fit so tightly they are hard to remove..If yours is loose it must be the wrong cap for the spark plug...Or not pushed down all the way on the plug...

its been taken off the cap many times, perhaps i have worn it out... you are right about the tightness of them, i have a brand new one that fits nice and tight, but it is saved for another project

Replacing the cap with a new one is pretty easy, only about $10.

If your ignition cap has a cirlcle ring around it, that ring helps to provide tension. Remove and squeeze the ring together and sorrta bend it so when placed back into position it will now provide a better/tighter fit. Capt,n

I use hose clamps on my RC Exl ignitions. I can't stand the spring clamp provided. If you go that route you don't want the cap rattling against the head or fins. Trim a top fin or two for a better clamp clearance fit.

I think TOM follows me...always a reply in a few min....Oh well! Hey TOM...I can,t stand the look of a cheap hose clamp!! I know you going to say the cowl will cover it anyway! NOT always. Capt,n[X(]

I have found that TWISTING the cap when removing will expand the circle ring
and you will have a loose cap...
We kind of pry up with two screwrivers at the same time....

Right on Walt & sage....I should have added that. Best Regards, Capt,n

does it involve cutting wires and soldering? dont wanna get that deep in to it....... its in a yak so there is a nice big cowl to cover the hose clamp

You just cut the old one off and put the new one on, it's easy, no soldering. I could help you in PM with pictures and instructions if you want.

a pm would be nice...thanks Jody

*edit maybe you could post it publicly, im sure there are other who could benefit from it

I just changed one on one of mine last fall as I had damaged one in a high speed pass that was a little too low. Anyways there is nothing to it and about all you need is a pair of pliers and a heat gun for the heat shrink tubing.

OK, here goes, Spark Plug Cap 101-202

This is for a plug cap to fit a CM-6 spark plug.

1) Tools that will come in handy.
2) Parts of a new spark plug cap for a CM-6 plug.
3) Cut off shrink wrap and cut off old cap as close as possible to the back edge of the cap shell, slide over the braided shielding in this order; large shrink tube, small shrink tube, dikes clamp, then push the sharpened end of the resistor into the core of the high tension lead.
4) Push the braided shielding up the high tension lead 2 or 3 inches and push the lead into the silicone boot until it stops, you should be able to see the end of the resistor lead in the bottom of the silicone boot where the spark plug goes.
5) Set the silicone boot into the new shell.
6) Put the other half of the shell over the first, bend the tabs over and squeeze them tight.
7) Slide the braided shielding over the back end of the new shell and then slide the dikes clamp over it.
8) Use your favorite side cutters to carefully crimp the clamp equally on both sides, alternate sides a little at a time.
9) Slide the small shrink tube over the clamp and shrink thoroughly then let it cool.
10) Slide the large shrink tube over the small tube all the way as far as it can go and thoroughly shrink it then let it cool.
11) Install the c-clip spring and the inner ground spring.
12) All done. Rewardyourself witha beer!

Note: If you can't get by with the plug wire being about 3/4" shorter you can cut the old dikes clamp off and pull the wire out of the old spark plug cap. Oh, and don't make fun of me calling the clamp a "dikes clamp" if there is a more proper terminology I'm sure it doesn't fit as well.

Nicely done Jody, they should make a sticky out of that post......

Hope it helps someone.

Jody I can see a flaw in that plug end, it's not on one of my ignitions.
Very nice job there ya done good*L*

VERY NICE JODY !!!!!
Going to print out and save... Thanks ... Walt

Thank you Jody, now i have the balls to do it my self now..... the same way i learned how to change bearings on glow engines..all it took was a nice post like yours

glad there are guys out there like you Jody. If i would have known that it was this easy several months ago; I wouldn't have put as big of a hole in the firewall of my Rascal 110 to fish the cap through. I hate hacking up stuff when you really don't have to and I will keep this on file. Thanks for the step by step.

It did me, thanks!!!

There was a coil spring in a RCEXL ignition that I got with a engine, what is that for?

Redundant ground..NOT NECESSARY, use it or not...I think a cap that fits so tight it takes a screwdriver to pry it off has more than enough ground....If an RC EXL cap is loose either the plug or the cap is wrong....There are 3, you gotta have the right one...PUSHED ALL THE WAY DOWN PAST THE HEX.....

I am going to test the spark with the spring "ground device" and then without it. Below in the photois my SPARK TESTER. Jody (from Valley View RC) sent me a little device to simulate RPM and view the spark. I hooked it up to a cyl &amp; a timing light. Works nice. I think it is a good device to have just to check for RF signals that may mess up your radio.....without flying &amp; crashing to find out!!!!Next is too test actual advance while engine is running.Capt,n <hr />