w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It is best to learn how the engine sounds when it is rich or lean. I have no clue how many turns my needles are but the engine runs correctly.

Get down there and play with the needles and learn the differences in sound.

corvettez06

My Feedback: (8)

I am not asking how to tune this engine. This engine run fine for about 15 flights. My problem just started and I am asking if anyone has seen this or has an idea where my fuel might be leaking from.

albert55

Hi Guys

I know this is bait out of the topic however I really need help desperately, Ive purchased a FG 14C recently and engine runs great, however very unfortunately crashed mp plane not due to the engine, got the sparybar bent, I've check the parts listing and on the FG14 parts listing theres no spraybar. I check FA82 and theres sparybar, I understand that the are using the same stuff except the carb of course. Ive 2 question,
1) anyone knows if its the same ? http://www.advantagehobby.com/26468/SAI91S122B/
2) tips on changing the spacebar would really be very helpful and appreciate

Thanks guys ! hope you experts there can help me

hyltaiwan

What you need is G14122.(SAIG14122)

albert55

Hyltaiwan Thks for ur help, however I can't seem to find the parts u were referring to, can u attached a link for me ? Thks a lot

hyltaiwan

This part No. had been announced Jan 2014. We have it here in Taiwan
.

albert55

R u selling it? I'm willing to buy it fr u as we don't hv it here in singapore, n e high end needle as well . It's for the fg14c correct ? Would really appreciate if I can get it from you, I just came back from Taiwan tour on march, e food e ppl e place is just amazing ! Love Taiwan ! Will surely go back again. We went to Jiu fen as well

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Any updates on how to setup a FG-14C? Mine is new and has about 3 hours on it. I followed the break in procedure via manual.

I am having trouble getting it to idle reliably. Around 2800 is about as low as it will go... but mostly will idle there and after about 15 secs without touching anything - the engine will start slowing down and finally quitting.

Still using break-in prop- evolution oil 20:1; Top RPM 9000 and set rich side of peak. What am I missing? I am trying just to get it to run reliably to avoid deadsticks --- I realize it will only get better with more hours of run time.

Ideas? What am I missing?
Denver -- 5,280 elevation

JoeyCoates

Well, an old thread but what sweet little engine. I bought one in December 2017 and ran it on bench for about an hour. I'll admit that it would not settle into a good tune for the first few hours, but with about 4 hours on, half on bench and half on an old PT-40 it now it's a whole different story. With an APC 14x6 it idles at 2,000-2,100 steady and hits 9,500 on the bench. Transition is just like a glow Saito 82, nearly instant. Just to see what it would do i threw on a 15x7 Xoar beechwood sport prop which I know is too much, just wanted to see. Idled at 1,800 and ran 8,000 on bench.... pretty stout for a 14cc gas 4-stroke engine! Still on original plug.

Anyway, if this is how the Saito gas engines run then I'm hooked. I'm thinking a Hangar 9 10cc Valiant might be a pretty good match for it, possibly a Phoenix Ryan STA although that might be stretching it. Neat little engine though.

PCT

My Feedback: (3)

Joey - sharing my own experience here. My FG-14 ran like a dream on the bench. All buddies were thoroughly impressed. In the air it was a different story. I never gave up and flew the crap out of it through dead sticks and all. In the end, I found that it would need muffler pressure to get a reliable idle in the air and a consistent run from one flight to the next. By that time, I had already had the best klunk possible, a one way valve, and insistent tuning. I started to really enjoy it and it died.

Horizon replaced it (broken crank) and told me to use at least a 14x6 or 14x8, 20:1 rather than 16:1 I was running. Their diagnosis was the high rpm I was running on 13x8 broke the crank. I have not been able to run the new replacement since it has been freezing in Houston.

PCT

My Feedback: (3)

Joey,

Here is the note from the repair invoice.

JoeyCoates

Thanks. To be perfectly honest I am not sure the 14x6 is enough prop for it, I am turning 9500 on the bench with it and I know it will unload some more in the air. I am going to try a 14x8 or 15x6 to see where it is, I think the 15x7 was a bit much though. I believe the manual recommended about 9200 as the upper limit, on the ground at least.

Joey

Ernie Misner

Interesting that they actually wanted you to go to less oil in the mix... ! I wonder what their reasoning for that was.

PCT

My Feedback: (3)

I read the tech's note as saying the 16:1 mixture allowed me to lean the engine a little too far as I was tuning for max rpm. I am no expert. I was under the impression that a thicker mixture would better protect from a lean run. It might be the same difference.

paulhat

Hi All,

I have recently aquired an FG14C.
To be honest I didnt follow the manual recommendations and adjust the intake valve.
Anyway after about 3 hours running it started running really bad. Pulled the rocker cover off and there was a huge amount of play. Maybe 3mm.
is that normal for the clearance to go that far out or is there maybe something else wrong?
Maybe I have damaged the pushrod by letting it get so far out of adjustment?

Any advice appreciated.

Paul.

hyltaiwan

Check that 4 pcs of cylinder screw, if they are loosen your valve clearance will be enlarged quite a litlle.

Stev64rey

Hi guys,
so about in 2013 or 2014 I bought a saito 14c brand new in the box and put it aside for use into a Hangar 9 RV8 brand new in the box build project. I pretty much forgotten about it until this winter when I was looking for something else, so I decided to put this together this winter. I normally fly the larger planes 35cc and up but lately Ive crashed two of my usual glow small planes I take to the field as a “quickie” after work before it got dark, meaning it stays assembled and tossed in the bed of my pickup.
So this is my first gasser in the small engine size that does not use a Walbro carb.
This may sound like a stupid question, but in all the planes Ive set up for tuning, the high speed needle is adjusted at WOT. The manual clearly does not state WOT , just states to lean needle from factory settings using a tach for max rpms and back off slightly.
Are you guys adjusting high speed at WOT or at Idle?
In my case, Im getting 9300 to 9500 with a 13x8 APC prop right at the 1 turn 20 minutes out from closed, but at low end set at 7 turn 35 minutes from closed Ive had to lean out the low end adjustment screw at least a turn to get a decent transition from idle to WOT and slightly richen there with a high 2800rpm idle speed to keep engine from quitting when I raise the tail up putting the nose down, it will stumble run rough at that position until I level the plane out then it will smooth out at high idle again.
still trying to figure this all out, Ive gotten sbout 50 minutes run time so far on ethanol free 94 octane VP gas and Amsoil synthetic at 16:1
if Im going to maiden it like this come spring, I am going to have to set up a high idle setting on my radio for flight and lower idle setting switch for the touchdown.
a little insight on this will be appreciated. This is notably different than a gas engine with a Walbro carb.

paulhat

Thanks Hyltaiwan.
Not sure exactly what screws you are talking about. I have done a quick check and all the screws that I can see look fine.

So I haven't given up on this engine yet.. but I am getting there. So far I have had about 30 flights with about 50% of them ending in a dead stick. As you all know it's only a matter of time before you run out of luck.
The engine idles perfect and runs up to full throttle fine on the ground (including nose up). Climb outs are strong and the engine runs perfect... until it stops. There is little warning of it stopping. It just stops.
Level flight so as not to introduce any air bubbles. 3/4 to full throttle.. The thing just quits.
I have tried running it richer and leaner with the same result. Installed a felt clunk to get rid of any air bubbles. Have tried different ignition batteries as well.
Any one have any idea why this thing would just stop randomly ?
I like to fly low but can't trust this engine. Would love to get it running right.

Paul.

erieqc

The only thing I would try is fly with the cowl off. It might be getting to hot. You don’t have anything to loose.

paulhat

Hey Erieqc,

I have no cowl on this model. Maybe it is getting hot though.. I am running it on the rich side. maybe I need more oil? I'm running 20:1 fully synthetic.

npirzamani

change the spark pluge

harrythor

are you using the factory metal engine mount the motor was supplied with? if not that could be causing it to over heat. also do you have a ignition cut off switch between the battery and the ignition if it is to small of a switch it could be getting warm and shutting down. i would hook the battery direct temporally just to rule it out. or you have a bad ignition module that is failing when hot.

paulhat

Hi Harrythor,

I am not using the supplied mount. Just using the plastic one that came with the model. I hadn't thought about possible overheating issues when using a non metal mount.
I'm not using an ignition cut off either. Have tried a few different batteries but didnt make a difference.

Paul.

harrythor

the metal mount acts like a heat sink and pulls heat away from the engine. does the engine start right back up when you get it back on the ground? 20:1 oil mixture is correct for that motor .

harrythor

also placement of the tank matters with that motor. the carb need to be as close the the center line of the tank as possible. the carb is designed to pull fuel but it does not have any way to stop it from siphoning. so if the carb is lower then the tank it will siphon badly and change your mixture when you fly inverted and also flood the motor after a flight if fuel is left in the tank.. also make sure you have a good vent on the tank other the the obvious air leaks on the fuel tubing it should work i use small zip ties on all of my fuel line connections.