w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The exhaust valve is about half way stuck

Arruda

Thank you w8ye.
I will check it.

rxwarrior

My Feedback: (4)

I had the stuck exhaust problem to I switched to evolution oil and the problem went away.

Arruda

I am also using Evolution oil.
But probably I'll have to lean a little the air/fuel mixture..

captain2

My Feedback: (2)

Have a FG14 on a UCD46- had a 14x6 turning 9200.
Engine has been fine until today. Started easily and smooth idle at something close to 2k. BUT, all of a sudden I have no high end, coughs and sputters badly at maybe 6.5k or so at any needle setting, and will shutdown like its starved for fuel. My plug is black. Not even close to anything that I'd want to put in the are. Figure to replace tank and lines, maybe also the $25 plug - but am at a loss trying to figure out where to look, engine had been running fine for several months. Any hints on diagnosing my problem or anybody out there experienced anything similar???

MercerAUST

Check the valve gap as per the instructions. Assuming this makes no difference, try replacing the spark plug. Just use an NHK or any other similar brand ($10)  rather than the Saito brand ($24) will work just as well.

I've got about 50 hours on my FG-14. It always used to miss on the top end to a varying degree. For the last monthy it has been running perfectly. Someone suggested I try moving the Hall Sensor a little, either way, to retard/advance the electronic ignition. I moved it about 3 degrees anti-clockwise and the engine has been running perfectly since.

I suggest you replace the spark plug first. This will probably fix the problem. If the problem persists, and you are confident you have got the low and high needles about right, you could look at moving the Hall Sensor a few degrees clockwise, and then anticlockwise, to see if this makes any difference. If not, set it back to the centre position.

captain2

My Feedback: (2)

thanks - did replace and replumb the tank yesterday, and it started right up after also replacing the plug with another Saito branded plug - seemed OK at idle, did'nt push it though - my neighbors have a bit of a problem with the noise. Won't know if I solved the problem until I can get it out to my club field.
Was wondering about using other plugs - think Saito's got some nerve at $24 - is there any particular size or spec for a different plug or will any 1/4 - 32 work??? Gap?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

People have used the RCEXL 1/4=32 $12 plugs in them but the cap doesn't fit as well.

MercerAUST

I've been using the NHK (NGK)? plug in the FG-14 (1/4 x 32). I think any 1/4 plug will be fine. Perhaps the cap will not be as snug, but it should be fine.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito 100 gas engine (FG-17) comes with a RCEXL ignition system

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ine-bm-SAIEG17

captain2

My Feedback: (2)

many thanks. Did replace my tank but also replaced the plug with a new Saito branded one. Ordered some RCEXL's. After monkeying with my mixture just a bit (it is touchy but ended up 1.5 turns out) the engine's back to pulling over 9k with my 14x6 Airscrew. Idle and transition fine as well. The new tank is 8 oz (240cc) gives me a flight time well in excess of 20 minutes even at full throttle. Consumption looks to be about 1/3 oz per minute - makes for very inexpensive days at my Club field

optech

My Feedback: (9)

Is there a new radial gasser coming???

The reason I ask is that in looking at the parts for the new 100 fg17, I see a reference to parts for "bn". I don't recall which engine is designated "bn" so I searched and more parts popped up but no engine. Theres a gasser carb and other parts but the most interesting is it shares a master rod with "kk", the 170 radial. So is "bn" a gasser radial???

Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looking at the parts common to "BN". I come up with a 375 gas 3 cyl radial (FG-61)

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

Is the tune on these engines art or science? Also is the tune consistent from one engine to another? Or are they different from one another?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The rich - lean sound on a Saito gas engine is a little different from that of a Saito glow engine. Yet, it is easily recognized.

The problem seems that the tuning band is more narrow than on the typical glow engine because of the air-fuel ratio of gasoline compared with that of glow fuel..

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

I bet this engine would be a nice match to Extreme flight and 3dhs planes close to 60"

optech

My Feedback: (9)

And its a high voltage version. Just got one in.

You can use a 2-cell lipo or a LiFe pack. Its got a Saito label on it so I was little miffed that maybe I got an early version or something like that. But on the bottom is a tiny little RCEXL sticker.

Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The FG series engines have been far more successful on sport and scale planes than in actual 3D situations

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

Would set it up for sport flying. Still would like to know if it will have nuff to pull these planes around and if weight would be a problem, or airframe be strong nuff.

MercerAUST

I'm not sure about the plane size. The engine is equivalent in capacity to about a 0.8 cubic inch nitro 4-stroke. It should be fine for any '60 sized' (eg 0.60 cubic inch 2-stroke nitro plane) unless you want extreme performance (eg 3D hovering or speed) in which case it wil be lacking. It will be good in any sports plane like the Hanger 9 Pulse 60. It will prop hang the Pulse 60, but only for 5 seconds or so. Harriers are possible, but only with a fair wind.

captain2

My Feedback: (2)

Estimate it equivalent to a FA72 powerwise - with a few notable caveats. The gasser seems to be more tolerant of larger props, has a slightly lower idle, and is ridiculously inexpensive to run
Have 2 GP U Can Do 46s one with a glow FA82, the other with the FG14. 13x6 10.5k on the glow, 9.2k 14x6 on the gas. More speed with the glow, overall more pull with the gas. Gasser probably best with a 15" wide blade for 3D except for prop clearance issues. Flying it aggressively use something like 1/4 oz gas per minute vs about 3/4 oz /minute glow. A consumption factor of 3. Considered with the fuel cost difference, about 20 times cheaper to run.

Jam1e

Hi folks.
I've just aquired a lightly used Saito FG14 Petrol engine.
I haven't had chance to run it yet, and know very littke about 4strokes.
I've since heard some bad reports, regarding miss firing and and maybe a poor ignition unit.
I've also notice that Saito have now brought out an FG14 "B". Why is this, and what has changed from the first model FG 15 petrol?
Constructive opinions appreciared.

Jam1e

Hi folks.I've just aquired a lightly used Saito FG14 Petrol engine.I haven't had chance to run it yet, and know very littke about 4strokes.I've since heard some bad reports, regarding miss firing and and maybe a poor ignition unit.I've also notice that Saito have now brought out an FG14 "B". Why is this, and what has changed from the first model FG 15 petrol?Constructive opinions appreciated.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Maybe they changed to the Saito labeled RCEXL ignition like they did on the FG 17?

Pete Bergstrom

Jam1e,

The 'B' designation on the engine is simply to recognize that it shares the same case as the '82B' glow version of the engine. Th FG-14B came out originally as a 'B' version, there never was an 'A' version.

Ignition problems are fairly straight forward. Either the ignition won't run above 7500rpm, or it will. If an engine simply won't run above 7500 rpm than it is an ignition problem. If it misses above that rpm it is a fuel mixture issue, not an ignition issue. All the FG-14B engines have had the latest Saito carb technology from their release.

I would suggest you read through the manual and familiarize yourself with the operation of the engine, follow the manual (contrary to popular belief it is not just a listing of "suggestions" but what we have found to be "Best Practices" after hours of testing) and run your engine on a bench test stand first. If you find that it runs well and you can set all the needles with the prop you intend to use in the airplane - then move it into the airplane. If at that point you develop any operating problems then you need to look at the airframe/fuel tank/fuel delivery system to the engine. Make sure you run a filter into the tank from your fuel jug, a filter between the fuel tank and the carb, and avoid a t-fitting in the fuel line between the tank and carb (These are a known source of air bubbles into the system). Instead of the t-fitting, build a 3-line tank so you have a dedicated fueling/defueling line that has nothing to do with the carb fuel feed line.

If you need a manual it can be downloaded here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/1732...ion_Manual.pdf

There is a tech note about the muffler here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAI_...bon_072011.pdf

Enjoy your new-to-you engine!

Pete