3W 106 problems
#1
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I have a 3W 106 TOC that has decided that it does not want to start![:@] I believe that I'm getting enough fuel. I am beginning to question the ignition end of things! Does anyone know how probale it is that my hall sensor or the little neodym magnet in the prop hub may have gone bad?
Thanks in advance!
Randy
Thanks in advance!
Randy
#2

It is not common for magnets to go bad unless they have been over heated.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked to see if they are firing.
Is it one of the newer ignitions that use two magnets.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked to see if they are firing.
Is it one of the newer ignitions that use two magnets.
#3
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From: Dimondale, MI
Pretty unlikely the magnet went bad and over the years (many of them)I've seen very few sensors go bad. I have however seen plenty of 3W ignitions go bad so that's where I would place my bets. I've had 5 3W's and every one of them has eventually had to be converted to a different carb and an aftermarket ignition which turned them into the good engines they should have been to begin with. I love their torque and power but they sure can be a PITA.
#6
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ORIGINAL: BadAzzMaxx
It is not common for magnets to go bad unless they have been over heated.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked to see if they are firing.
Is it one of the newer ignitions that use two magnets.
It is not common for magnets to go bad unless they have been over heated.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked to see if they are firing.
Is it one of the newer ignitions that use two magnets.
Randy
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From: Bellevue, WA
It's really quite simple - if you are getting no spark when moving the prop quickly over the magnet and looking at a good spark plug, your ignition is not firing. There can be a host of reasons for this - bad battery, switch, bad cable, bad ignition, etc. Generally speaking, 3W ignitions are quite resilient, as they are capable of working with higher voltage than most ignitions.
Before getting a replacement ignition, why not send this one to one of the 3W service providers and see if they can fix it for you? I get very good service and quick turnaround from Aircraft International.
#17
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I am certain it's not a battery issue. I know we have ample power to the ignition because all the LEDs we have in place to confirm that are in fact doing so.. I'll probably send the two(both of which are pre owned)suspect ignitions in for testing..
Randy
Randy
#18
For the record, I checked the amount of spark my Syssa ignition on my 26GX generates and it is significant and easy to detect in broad daylight any time the magnet passes the Hall sensor (slow or fast). On the other hand, the 3W-106 in question will not generate any spark, or generates an extremely weak spark with a well charged 3900mAh 6 volt pack and properly functioning electrical system otherwise.
The only other thing I can think of, if the problem is not the Hall sensor or the ignition box itself, is that we are on the tail end of using up our 100LL AvGas (LL=Low Lead for those not in the know!) and maybe, just maybe, we are fouling plugs.
I do not agree that 3W ignitions are of inferior design to others on the market. I think we just need to find out why we seem to be having issues where there were none to start.
Thanks for the input everyone!
Respectfully,
Matt
The only other thing I can think of, if the problem is not the Hall sensor or the ignition box itself, is that we are on the tail end of using up our 100LL AvGas (LL=Low Lead for those not in the know!) and maybe, just maybe, we are fouling plugs.
I do not agree that 3W ignitions are of inferior design to others on the market. I think we just need to find out why we seem to be having issues where there were none to start.
Thanks for the input everyone!
Respectfully,
Matt
#19

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From: San Jose,
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Unless I missed something, I don't see the problem defined.. Does it do absolutely nothing when attempting to start? As in no popping, or anything of the like? Does the engine "pop" properly when choked? After removing the choke, does it "pop" again, but not run?
If it's a matter of "popping" and not running, check your throttle butterfly. When closed, you should see the threaded end of the throttle plate retaining screw... Not the slotted head of the screw.. If you're seeing that, the throttle plate is reversed, and it will not draw fuel properly... This is a problem that I experienced, and was driven nearly nutz....
Just my 2 cents worth... I hope you get it solved. BTW, I've been running 3W engines for years, and love them. But hey, that's me...
If it's a matter of "popping" and not running, check your throttle butterfly. When closed, you should see the threaded end of the throttle plate retaining screw... Not the slotted head of the screw.. If you're seeing that, the throttle plate is reversed, and it will not draw fuel properly... This is a problem that I experienced, and was driven nearly nutz....
Just my 2 cents worth... I hope you get it solved. BTW, I've been running 3W engines for years, and love them. But hey, that's me...
#21
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ORIGINAL: johnhere
Unless I missed something, I don't see the problem defined.. Does it do absolutely nothing when attempting to start? As in no popping, or anything of the like? Does the engine ''pop'' properly when choked? After removing the choke, does it ''pop'' again, but not run?
If it's a matter of ''popping'' and not running, check your throttle butterfly. When closed, you should see the threaded end of the throttle plate retaining screw... Not the slotted head of the screw.. If you're seeing that, the throttle plate is reversed, and it will not draw fuel properly... This is a problem that I experienced, and was driven nearly nutz....
Just my 2 cents worth... I hope you get it solved. BTW, I've been running 3W engines for years, and love them. But hey, that's me...
Unless I missed something, I don't see the problem defined.. Does it do absolutely nothing when attempting to start? As in no popping, or anything of the like? Does the engine ''pop'' properly when choked? After removing the choke, does it ''pop'' again, but not run?
If it's a matter of ''popping'' and not running, check your throttle butterfly. When closed, you should see the threaded end of the throttle plate retaining screw... Not the slotted head of the screw.. If you're seeing that, the throttle plate is reversed, and it will not draw fuel properly... This is a problem that I experienced, and was driven nearly nutz....
Just my 2 cents worth... I hope you get it solved. BTW, I've been running 3W engines for years, and love them. But hey, that's me...
Randy




