Walbro problem....need ideas!
#1
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
After several months sitting I took the aircraft out to fly with the ZENOAH 20cc with a WALBRO WT811 carb. 2 dead sticks later I decided to tune it up. I couldn't get it started, replace batteries, spark plugs, CDI, and gasoline. Got the spark ok, but no start. Went out and got a carb parts kit and replace several gaskets and diaphram. Still couldn't get it started.
I did notice the more I tried the more the fuel was dripping and several times the engine was flooded. HELP! Bob
I did notice the more I tried the more the fuel was dripping and several times the engine was flooded. HELP! Bob
#3

My Feedback: (16)
On the regulator side, the gasket goes on first and the the diaphragm goes on and the cover and four screws
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf
#5
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: w8ye
On the regulator side, the gasket goes on first and the the diaphragm goes on and the cover and four screws
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf
On the regulator side, the gasket goes on first and the the diaphragm goes on and the cover and four screws
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf
#6

My Feedback: (16)
The Walbro WT811 doesn't have a spring on the fuel pump side.
There is supposed to be a spring on the regulator side that holds the needle and seat closed
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product...&Series=WT
There is supposed to be a spring on the regulator side that holds the needle and seat closed
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product...&Series=WT
#7
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: w8ye
The Walbro WT811 doesn't have a spring on the fuel pump side.
There is supposed to be a spring on the regulator side that holds the needle and seat closed
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product...11-1&Series=WT
The Walbro WT811 doesn't have a spring on the fuel pump side.
There is supposed to be a spring on the regulator side that holds the needle and seat closed
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product...11-1&Series=WT
Back to the drawing board or take another good walbro on a 26cc and try it.
#15
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: racelikustolit3k
I am going though the same problems with a g20ei, seems this a common problem..
does anyone have a spare 811 they would like to sell
thanks jessie
I am going though the same problems with a g20ei, seems this a common problem..
does anyone have a spare 811 they would like to sell
thanks jessie
#17

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From: inola,
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yep I put a new carb kit in it. but now when I roll the engine over it will completely fil the jug with fuel.. even closing the H/L speed needles it is still pumpin fuel through the carb (this one has me scratching my head)
#18
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: budchugger
When you had it apart did you clean the screen? Sounds like it might be dirty as it don't take much to clog it up.
When you had it apart did you clean the screen? Sounds like it might be dirty as it don't take much to clog it up.
#19
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: racelikustolit3k
yep I put a new carb kit in it. but now when I roll the engine over it will completely fil the jug with fuel.. even closing the H/L speed needles it is still pumpin fuel through the carb (this one has me scratching my head)
yep I put a new carb kit in it. but now when I roll the engine over it will completely fil the jug with fuel.. even closing the H/L speed needles it is still pumpin fuel through the carb (this one has me scratching my head)
#20

My Feedback: (16)
ORIGINAL: BOB275
My hair is falling out from scratching so much. If you come up with a fix, please let me know.
ORIGINAL: racelikustolit3k
yep I put a new carb kit in it. but now when I roll the engine over it will completely fil the jug with fuel.. even closing the H/L speed needles it is still pumpin fuel through the carb (this one has me scratching my head)
yep I put a new carb kit in it. but now when I roll the engine over it will completely fil the jug with fuel.. even closing the H/L speed needles it is still pumpin fuel through the carb (this one has me scratching my head)
pop off pressure = Zero
#21

Bob, I thought you had found the problem to be the small spring left out from under the metering needle? If it is still flooding, do you ever get a pop before the cylinder gets flooded to much? Maybe no spark?
Also, the metering diaphragm must not be hard or misshaped. It must be turned so that the anvil hits the rocker arm of the metering valve.
If it runs but closing the mixture needle fully does not lean out the engine then the metering diaphragm has likely gotten too hard to function properly or there is dirt in the needle seat.
If it will not richen adequately, the pump is not functioning properly due to wore out pump diaphragm or pump valves. Also it has been documented that an acetate (bluish) pump will not pump adequately to provide fuel overhead for the engine to cool properly.
Also, the metering diaphragm must not be hard or misshaped. It must be turned so that the anvil hits the rocker arm of the metering valve.
If it runs but closing the mixture needle fully does not lean out the engine then the metering diaphragm has likely gotten too hard to function properly or there is dirt in the needle seat.
If it will not richen adequately, the pump is not functioning properly due to wore out pump diaphragm or pump valves. Also it has been documented that an acetate (bluish) pump will not pump adequately to provide fuel overhead for the engine to cool properly.
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From: PHOENIX, AZ
ORIGINAL: AA5BY
Bob, I thought you had found the problem to be the small spring left out from under the metering needle? If it is still flooding, do you ever get a pop before the cylinder gets flooded to much? Maybe no spark?
Also, the metering diaphragm must not be hard or misshaped. It must be turned so that the anvil hits the rocker arm of the metering valve.
If it runs but closing the mixture needle fully does not lean out the engine then the metering diaphragm has likely gotten too hard to function properly or there is dirt in the needle seat.
If it will not richen adequately, the pump is not functioning properly due to wore out pump diaphragm or pump valves. Also it has been documented that an acetate (bluish) pump will not pump adequately to provide fuel overhead for the engine to cool properly.
Bob, I thought you had found the problem to be the small spring left out from under the metering needle? If it is still flooding, do you ever get a pop before the cylinder gets flooded to much? Maybe no spark?
Also, the metering diaphragm must not be hard or misshaped. It must be turned so that the anvil hits the rocker arm of the metering valve.
If it runs but closing the mixture needle fully does not lean out the engine then the metering diaphragm has likely gotten too hard to function properly or there is dirt in the needle seat.
If it will not richen adequately, the pump is not functioning properly due to wore out pump diaphragm or pump valves. Also it has been documented that an acetate (bluish) pump will not pump adequately to provide fuel overhead for the engine to cool properly.
Funny it will fire on the first try and quits and won't start again.
In about 2-3 hours I will try again. And maybe try another Walbro carb from a 26cc engine.
#23

Ahhh, if it fires the first time and then no more... it tells that ignition is ok but carb is flooding. I'd close the high speed to about two turns out, and make sure the throttle is cracked open enough for starting and that the choke is opened after the pop. If that fails, then recheck everything on the metering system under the plate that has the four small screws. It has the symptoms of the metering needle not closing. Causes for that are 1. the little spring is missing or misaligned under the rocker arm. 2. dirt in the needle seat. 3. wrong metering needle. 4. diaphragm bulged inward and not allowing needle to close. 5. atmosphere hole clogged and not allowing fuel pressure to move the diaphragm outward.
#24

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From: inola,
OK
I am workin on mine right now, and its still kickin my A%$..
when I put the fuel line on, I can roll the engine over about 10 times (choke open) until the engine hydrolocks(jug completely full of fuel).. I dont get it at all everything was replaced just exactly like factory..
any thoughts on this??
I am about th just buy a new carb from HH and see if it fixes the problem
when I put the fuel line on, I can roll the engine over about 10 times (choke open) until the engine hydrolocks(jug completely full of fuel).. I dont get it at all everything was replaced just exactly like factory..
any thoughts on this??
I am about th just buy a new carb from HH and see if it fixes the problem


