a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

You might be the first & only one to mount a DLE20cc gasser into a heli.

You sir are most talented and a very skilled machinist!
Thanks for adding that.

Estang

The camera man seems to be hiding, he not trusting your flying?
 Great idea with the DLE

Umran

Yes he was hiding alright...

anyway some static photos...

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Well played there rboy!

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Well I did it! Went to a gasser on my 1930 Fleet biplane, i have added a picture, because we all love pictures and Iam new to this tread! and this is my first gasser

So Ihave my DLE 20cc installed with a Xoar 17x6 prop (was using a Magnum .91FS, wayyyyy underpowered!!) so here is my question (and i have read lots of view points, but looking for the latest and greatest opinion - BREAKIN??

What is the latest thoughts on breaking in the DLE20cc ???? Ihave read 2 hours at 4500 RPM, all the way to get it running and take it up to WOTand back to idlefor 15 mins to heat upthe ring for the best performance!.

Iam open to all thoughts and opinions, thanks! and Iplan to start the breakin this week!

Bob

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

bob418 - from what I've read here and elsewhere on breakin it's start flying right away, run mid throttle and occasionally rev up to WOT for 10 seconds or so. But mostly keep it around mid-throttle for a while (few hours of run-time) and use 40-1 oil mixture. But I'm no expert - this is just what I've read.

vinmech

Well Bob,

I'm kinda old school. I mounted my engine into the plane, first gallon was mixed with Honda 2 stroke racing petrol oil at 28-1, set my needles for reliable idle and transition, installed my cowling and flew the whole gallon out, limiting full throttle to 15 seconds or less.

My second gallon, I switched to HP Stihl synthetic oil at 32-1, made minor needle adjustments, and have been enjoying it immensely.

Of course you'll get a other opinions saying, just start with the HP Stihl and keep it simple! But I don't like waiting for my ring to start seating, or worse, glass your cylinder.

I did like you, started with a OS .91 on my Mustang, and was way under powered,put this motor on and have enjoyed strafing runs 5' off the deck, at 100 mph+! with a .60 size P-51 mustang.

I do want another relaxing plane such as yours or a Cub/Taylorcraft with a Dle 20 in it to though! Sweet Bipe by the way.

Ruddermadness

Hi guys, I've been cruising over all the data on the 20 And I this might of been talked about but I couldn't find it (sorry) But what walbro carb would be the same or equal to whats on the 20 now. I might be wrong here, but isn't the one that's on the 20 a clone of a walbro? I couldn't find any number that would match walbro

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

bob418,

Go the K.I.S.S. route;

30:1 mix for life of your DLE20 (4 ounces 2-cycle oil per .94 gallon of gas)
Start with the prop you intend to end up using (Vess -or- Xoar 17 x 6 is very good)
Set your LS & HS needles properly on the ground in first tank of fuel.

Go fly![sm=thumbup.gif]

That 4500rpm is Hobbico/Tower Hobbies crap, they haven't a clue!
Light & easy flying for first gallon or so, with varied light loads. Let it cool down
completely between flights say 15-20 minutes.

Dump the stock DLE/3 plug and get an NGK/CM-6 spark plug, and gap it to .025

Jody's gas engine tuning tips (pdf files);
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10293852

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Ruddermadness,

Yep, its a Chinese clone of a Walbro.
What's wrong with yours?

Ruddermadness

I have two DLE 20's I bought from toodifferenthobby shopsand both of them the idle won't drop, well it drops but it takes way to long and I end up coming in to hot on landings. I richen up the low end and ran about a half gallon gas thru it and still the same. So I thought I'd toss a new walbro in and see what happens.

boostoman

bob,
can you give me the specs of your biplane. (wingspan, wing area flying weight) I currently have a 54inch pitts python and im really temeted to put a dle20 on mine.

Waco

My Feedback: (265)

If the engine won't idle back right away, you need to adjust the low end and it will, there was a guy with the same problem and he readjusted the low end and it solved his problem, you can not tune these like a glow engine.

Ruddermadness

I alreadytryed that.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hey Ruddermadness,

Seems like I've heard of a missaligned choke butterfly plate causing the idle to hang. Just a thought ! ! !

Mike Brennan
Club Saito #723

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Two possibilities;

1) Your tuning of the LS & HS needles is still not quite right, primarily the LS needle.

Jody's gas engine tuning tips (pdf files);
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10293852

2) You may have 2 eng with loose throttle plates.

Remove a carb, and looking from the other end while closed, can you see light around the plate?
Is that carb throttle plate restraining screw loose? If so, put some red locktite on that screw, center
it inside the carb, and tighten it (but don't get ape strong on it).

If you haven't already removed it, remove that big shiny idle screw and set your idle from your transmitter.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Mike,

Throttle plate...NOT choke plate.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Thanx Jim, did get to thinking about what I wrote afterwords. Was hoping someone else might chime in . . . Thanx again

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Mike,

No problem.

We need to remember that some (new to gas) will only think of a single plate (as in glows),
whereas such as the DLE20 have a throttle plate AND a choke plate.

I forget where Jody mentioned it, but a very - very small number had loose throttle plate screws,
since corrected in production by DLE.

Ruddermadness

Thanks Jim, I'll adjust the thottleplate on both and I'll check them out at my flying field tomorrow and I'l let you know what happens. Thanks again

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Rubbermadness - might as well put red-locktite on the choke plate as well, as long as you've got the carb off.

a1pcfixer - considering how many people have had this problem I'm not so sure about that "very small number" part...

btw - speaking of engine problems, last night I was having trouble getting my new DLE 30 started - basically, it wouldn't. Then I checked for a spark and it was there, but then I noticed that it was not consistent. It would spark three or four times, then miss, or then miss four or five times. So I swapped in the ignition from my DLE 20 and the spark was consistent. The engine ran beautifully this morning (pic of Sukhoi M26 with DLE 30 attached). Going to return the DLE 30's ignition to Tower under warranty. Now that it's finally running this DLE 30 is a honey of an engine. Beautiful, low idle, smooth transition, PLENTY of power. I"m happy.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Already mentioned the red locktite.

As to the loose throttle plate screw, ask Jody.....or believe something fabricated, your choice.

Ernie Misner

bob418, what the guys are saying about using a different oil for break in is simply..... (and most folks probably don't do this anyway) that modern fully synthetic oils are so slippery that the ring might not seat in properly. So some folks use Lawn Boy, Honda, or some other non-synthetic based oil for break in and then switch to the synthetic stuff. Like I said, a few do this and swear by it but others don't.

Ernie

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

DLE20's break-in just fine when started off from the get-go
with fully synthetic 2-stroke oil like Stihl HP Ultra (and others). It
just might take another gallon of fuel to get there.

With the high rpm's this DLE20cc can achieve, good common
sense dictates it be given the very best protection from the beginning.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I've got about a gallon of gas through my new DLE 20 mounted on an old Goldberg Obsession 3D weighing in at about 11.5 lbs. At that weight I didn't expect it an "all out" 3D animal, but it's doing a lot better than I thought it would. Using a APC 16x8 prop I'm seeing a dependable idle at around 1400, 8500 on the top end, runs like a Singer sewing machine! If I've got any complaint at all, the stock muffler exits right at the same level as the leading edge of the wing, so I get a bit of a mess on the wing. Running a Pitts style muffler would cure that, but I'm having to much fun to bother changing it right now. Running Stihl Ultra at 30:1 tends to create a little "slobber" anyway.

Bottom line is I'm extremely pleased with the engine so far.