a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Case dim's at 1 7/8" is correct, but from center -to- center of bolt holes is round abouts 2.400" wide.

You only read part of the info I posted in my 'recap' msg, you forgot this part; "same mount size as OS 1.20"
Which is a whole bunch wider than OS .61!

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Blake,

Myself, I use metal geared servos on all my gassers, but I'm rather safety conscious.
I'd rather NOT crash due to a potential nylon geared servo failure.

This DLE20cc vibrates some, but no worse than some 4-strokes.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Colder temps do indeed require richer carb settings, but most gas engines come pre-set on the rich side.
If yours runs fine, with little 4 cycling, little 'gurgling' in mid range throttle, maybe yours is more of an idling issue.

This DLE20cc comes with an idle screw which I remove, and then set my idle through the transmitter, which allows me to set a throttle kill via the transmitter as well.

LS needle affect the engine fuel mix throughout the entire throttle range.
HS needle affects mainly from round abouts 1/4 throttle on up.

Soooo, at exactly what point is yours 'stalling'?

bbrown2828

My Feedback: (76)

ok well there is 90 pages how do i search just this fourm

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Due to the transition to the new servers, the thread search function does not work yet.

Go to Google and do a search?

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

As stated, 'Search This Thread' is currently broke.
But no need, as I gave you a direct link to that needed info....in RED.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

I just did that, entering - "Recap of DLE20cc info" - and it works great!

btw; Google search link is at bottom of this page.

Clay Walters

You shouldn't have to. NOONE needs to do a search just to learn if your question has been asked before and/or answered before. Its rude to even suggest to.

They can either answer your question or not.

In spite of good intentions there has been a ton of rudeness lately. If its just too much bother to answer a question again; then don't.

Clay

e-george

Good evening all. I didn't expect this small engine to cause so much discussion (90 pages!!). I'm still in running in procedure and waiting for model. I concluded that the seagull EDGE 60 is a good choice with enough wing area, strong construction and.......originally tailheavy!! Will come back during mounting of the engine.

George

dutchy50

G`day
When you remove the idle screw do you remove and take away the spring and run the idle like any 2 or 4 stroke glow engine by adjusting the idle on the DLE20 gas using your radio and throttle servo? Makes a lot of sense to me, much easier to adjust the idle with your radio than a screwdriver. Any Pros and Cons for this type of setup ??????
dutchy50

RACJ

I totally agree and question could have been answered with less work than was used to not answer. Clay,I see ya'll are in SC;I'm in NC.Must be something to that Southern Hospitality cliche.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Midwesteners follow in that regard as well (Clay's and RACJ's response.) Answering basic questions is a large part of what these forums are all about. The "High and Mighty" need to start their own forums or Groups. I suspect they'll be lonely after a while.

tms96460

Yea, the ignore button works for me.

meanrc

My Feedback: (2)

amen to the last 3 posts.

Jk

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

No, just remove the screw ONLY, leave the spring in place. It helps return the throttle to idle (or kill) should linkage come off.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Threaded forums, structured by subject, are so designed to encourage the flow of info. The various Search links are provided here for a purpose Use the tools provided.

As some of you new to this thread will see in my next two messages, I've done a ton of work just for you, so you don't have to do much searching....

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Over the past 4 months, many have posted asking "Is this engine
a good match to this xxx-xxx model?"

Some don't do their homework (read this thread), some don't understand
this engine's incredible power. Others are just new to gassers.

So maybe a very rough guideline of sorts might help some in deciding
if this DLE20cc gas engine is -or- is not a good match for their model.

This DLE20cc gas engine, is a drop in replacement for most any model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of .90 -to- 1.20 size.

So, if the specs on your model states .90 -to- 1.20, then this DLE20c
is very likely a good match!

If your model states ONLY .90, then maybe. Things like wing area, wing
loading, assembled weight, and so on will determine if it's a good match.

If your model's specs state anything less than a .90 size engine, then
most like it's NOT a good match! There are a few exceptions.

Overall, roughly speaking; this DLE20cc will be good for many model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of a range of between .90 -to- 1.20 size,
and weighing between 7 lbs -to- around abouts 20 lbs.

For 3D'ing; 7-9 lbs but the closer you get to 9 lbs, the slower pull-outs
from a hover, will be.

General sport flying; 9-13 lbs (roughly speaking), and still be spirited.

Scale flying; 10-20 lbs, but as you exceed 14 lbs it may be a bit sluggish.
A long take-off may be needed, a large wing span WILL be helpfull!

In ALL cases, reinforcing the firewall for the stresses of a gas engine
is a very wise move!!!

One other issue to consider in matching this DLE20cc gas engine to your
model will be prop -to- ground clearance. The sweet spot of engine
torque/thrust for this engine is with a 17" prop. Yes, DLE states the
prop range as 14x10 - 17x6, but the 17" props are right in it's power band.

That brings up issues of ground clearance on some potential selections of
models. Some warbirds (and other models) may have issues of prop -to- ground
clearance. If your chosen model states .90 -to- 1.20 then you should be OK.

If you can stuff this DLE20cc into your model, but have ground clearance
issues, then a 3 or 4 bladed prop may be required, or go with a smaller
prop.

This DLE20cc gas engine has more power than a CRRC Pro 26 or a Saito 1.25
(Saito FG-20/gasser) and is a drop in replacement for most any model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of .90 -to- 1.20 size.

Proceed accordingly!

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Recapping the bits & pieces of info on this new engine, here's the
DLE 20cc gas engine details

This DLE20cc continues to be a very busy message thread, loads of
new info since I last updated this 15 days ago.

Several areas have been updated; break-in routine, ignition current
consumption/voltage issues, mufflers, new video, etc..........


[Basic info]

Confirmed weight: 29.2 oz with ign. and muffler
Prop range: 14 x 10 -to- 17 X 6
Rear Carb
Beam style mount
DLE20cc mfg stated - compression ratio 10.5:1



[Engine break-in routine]

Engine break-in routine......



[Dimensions]:

Motor mount bolt spacing is 1", case width is 1-7/8"

Side -to- side bolt hole centers 2.400"

Distance from firewall to prop washer is 5-11/16"

From the center of the rear mounting hole to the edge of the open choke valve is 2-5/16"

Distance from propeller hub to the front of the cylinder: 42 mm

Width of cylinder at exhaust port: 56 mm

Distance from the center line to the top of spark plug cap: 120 mm
(with spark plug cap fully inserted).

Prop shaft size : M8 x1.0 mm (w/two nuts)



[Muffler]

Stock muffler dimensions;

2.260" tall @ end caps - 3.800" incl exh pipe
1.100" thick out from exh port of eng
2.050" wide @ end caps

Pitts style muffler (optional);

Jtec wrap around muffler.......

J'tec Muffler Dimensions.....


[Newly designed mufflers]

Newly designed Mufflers.....



[Ignition info]

Stock sparkplug is a made in China CM-6 type (DLE 3)
Valley View R/C will include true NGK/CM-6
Electronic auto advance ignition
Ignition is a new model and special designed for this engine.
DLE recommended voltage range 4.8-6.0 volts
A 4-cell NiMh/NiCd of 1650-2000mAh is a good starting point


[Ignition current consumption + ign voltage issues]

Ignition draw + Voltage issues......

Ignition current consumption.....



[Prop Data]:

APC Sport 16x7 9000 RPM 14lbs. 7oz.
JXF Beech 16x8 8300 13lbs. 10oz.
JXF Beech 17x7 7970 13lbs. 12oz.
SY 16x8 8500 13lbs. 5oz.
SY 17x8N 8200 14lbs. 9oz.

MA K-series 15x8 2 blade- 13lbs 11oz @ 9750 rpm.
MA K-series 15x10 2 blade- 12lbs 13oz @ 8400 rpm.
Xoar 15x8- 13lbs 5oz @ 9000 rpm.
The MA 15x8 and Xoar 15x8 have unbelievable throttle response...

Vess 17x6 14lb. 8oz. - Great throttle response and crappy tach showed 8549RPM
Vess 17x8 14lb. 0oz. - Great throttle response only slightly less RPM than 17x6
Vess 18x6 14lb. 3oz. - Above average throttle response, may be perfect when fully broken in
Vess 16x8 13lb. 9oz. RPM through the roof (by ear) and instant throttle response spools up like an electric motor!

Zinger 16x8 - stinks, no power, way low on thrust
APC 17x4W 3D prop - decent but the idle transition was terrible, 9700 rpm!
Xoar 16x8 - Good prop but not as much thrust on the high end as the next one...
Xoar 17x6 - Hands down the best prop so far. Great punch out of hover, great top end, improved low end but more to come on this....

Only 1 report on a 3-bladed prop;

MA K-series 15x6 3 blade- 13.0lbs @ 9100 rpm.

NO thrust numbers for 4-blade props....YET!



[VIDEO's];

Jody Haack - test flight video......


Test run of DLE20cc......


First bench run (mpascualslp).......


and the engine response after 1 hour (mpascualslp)......


FUNTANA 125 WITH DLE 20.....



[Photos]

DLE20cc engine dissasembled photos......

Exhaust diverter.....

Link to ALL photos on this DLE20cc msg thread......

Photos of choke linkages (#1).....

Photos of choke linkages (#2).....



[Interesting comments]:

same mount size as OS 1.20

a 20cc is a drop in replacement for .90 to 1.20 size four stroke

more power than a CRRC Pro 26 or a Saito 1.25 (Saito FG-20/gasser)

20cc = 1.20 c.i.
30cc = 1.80 c.i.

The Jtech {muffler} is supposed to be quieter {than the stock one}
and that is important to me

When propping aerobatic planes the most important engine aspect to
consider {is} the torque curve, peak torque comes in at approximately
3/4 of the peak HP RPM, so you want a prop that loads the engine in
a manner that takes advantage of that RPM band, typically these are
the larger props in an engines acceptable use range.

prop the engine for the performance you want for the airframe it's
mounted on, forget about the "break in prop" they are unnecessary

Go up to the top of this page and click on "Search this thread"



New to gas engines? Read this!

Newbie to Gas Information.....



[Warranty]
Valley View R/C; 1 year
Troy Built Models; 2 years
Tower Hobbies; 2 years



[Ordering info....]

Valley View RC.....


Troy Built Models.....


DLE20cc @ Tower Hobbies.......


DLE20cc @ SDSHOBBY.NET......
NOTE: Warranty issues from this last vendor are YOUR matter!!!



[Owners manual]

DLE20cc manual.....

.

airborne2.4

Jim, I truely appreciate all the infomation you've compiled from the first few pages on this thread. You've made things easy for all us

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Sheldon,

Thank-you very much!

Think of my 'Recap of DLE20cc info' as an index of this thread, similar to the index in your transmitters manual.

When someone posts the new, never (yet) been asked question, and several respond, we all learn and move forward.
Questions asked & answered hundreds of times over, only stagnates a message thread.

mesaflyer

Your correct, I did not read all the way down the page to the reference to the 120, which is 2.28 according to the OS web site.

Either way, I guess I'll do the smart thing and wait till my engine gets here.
Thanks

steinywi

I'm glad Jim is a moderator!

erieqc

a1pcfixer
The problem is now thats getting to be to much info for some and they wont want to take the time to read it because they will want their answer now instead of doing all that work.

airborne2.4

Yep, waiting would be the smart thing to do.

Clay Walters

Jim that's only true to those that have followed and possibly participated in a thread from early on. Once a thread gets to 10+ pages with many deviations from the thread title reading every post in detail just to learn if the answer to your question is contained within is burdensome.

Repeated admonitions to "do a search" or repeated comments to the effect "I've already answered your question many times before....." basically slam the door on an otherwise enthusiastic modeler.

When a more tactful approach becomes tedious to you why don't you just not answer at all? Just post a link to your previous answer without further comment?

Welcome newcomers as if the thread just started and be nice.

My 2 cents,

Clay