w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

As Milton says, the CRRC and RCEXL pickup sensors are not exactly compatible

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I use a 2100 ma 4.8 v Nicad for testing..Last night I left it connected to an ignition...This moning the battery was dead, the ignition still works...
The current draw wihen not running is under 100 ma, hardly enough to kill an ignition...Or even make it warm....

BadAzzMaxx

I have done the same thing, But did not want to tell that and butt heads with anybody. LOL

karolh

Thanks you two, as for awhile there I thought that I was losing it, as more than likely I will but hopefully not just yet

Karol

pe reivers

My luck is that I use ignitions that switch themselves off. The red blinking light warns me to operate that little switch, if bystanders don't see it first

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I only reported what I experienced with what I had, and the other events that may have had impact. That others have not experienced the same thing only relates what they haven't experienced. I know the sensor height can be an issue, and it was in this case. Antique related similar experiences in phone conversations.

So no butting heads, only a heads up for those that might get an engine where the ignition fails to function. The problem may not be with the ignition module, but the sensor. It's another item to check during a trouble shooting process.

pe reivers

Capt Midnight

Come on guys... T.O.M. had it right the first time. Listen to him...!

With Hall sensors, the ignition is triggered by the COLLAPSE of the magnetic field (from the magnet underneath the pick-up), not the initiation of the field. If the magnet is not close enough to the sensor to initiate the field, then by definition, there will not be any field to COLLAPSE.

Now do you get it guys?

BTW: The first successful commercial implementation of a Hall-effect sensor was created and patented by the guys at Microswitch (A division of Honeywell) in Freeport, IL. I knew most of the engineers and scientists that worked on this project, so you can take this info and put in the bank.

B

Oilsands

Your 100% correct.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

if TOM's magnet was weaker than the average magnet, his magnetic field would be weaker therefore smaller than that of a stronger magnet...

pe reivers

Some engines use ferro magnets, others use rare earth magnets. Ferro magnets (black ) are cheap and weak. They loose magnetism due to heat quicker than the rare earth types. So therein lies part of the troubleshooting process. With ferro magnets, I used postcard paper  to set the distance as close as possible to the sensor holder.
Use a saw blade to check if your magnet still is going strong.

captinjohn

I have some of the bigger black colored magnets. I would not even think of using one. I have 4 brands of magnets and the smaller ones seem far stronger. In fact the bigger Ferro magnets are getting weaker as time goes on. The magnets I bought at radio shack (small) are very good. Capt,n

pe reivers

.

captinjohn

I wish some of that good Data posted on RC Exl ignitions in the FG forum would migrate over here. Thanks Capt,n

BadAzzMaxx

Captain

What part are you talking about, The battery drain information or how The Rcexl will work with the OS 55 gas engine.

Tower wants 280.00 for there ignition verses $60.00 to $70.00 for a Rcexl
Tower wants $55.00 for a Hall sensor verses $6.00 to $9.00 for a Rcexl
Tower wants $60.00 for a plug cap verses $10.00 to $12.00 for a Rcexl

Battery drain test on Rcexl done by CH ignition

I just have done some battery drain tests.
All tests were done at 8000 RPM.A new single cylinder, Version 2 CHXL Ignition.
7.2 Volts -725 MA
7 Volts -675 MA
6 Volts -650 MA
4.8 Volts -475 MA
3.7 Volts -375 MA
3 Volts 300 MA
2.5 Volts 250 -MA
2.Volts - 175-MA -Weak spark, Do not no if engine would run probably not.
Under 2 volts Ignition dead. Ignition still working but Hall Effect dead. We have done test runs and the engines run fine down to 3.2 Volts.
Why use any thing over 4.8 volts. Three Nickel Metal Hydride would probably be OK. 3.6 volts.

Milton

captinjohn

I kinda liked the thread about the reasons why some ignitoins kick back. The guys posting really knew what they was talking about. Thanks Capt,n

cuwaert

CDI ignitions for model engines pose some kind of a problem alltogether because you cannot test if they work properly.
If the engine runs great, no problem, but if it doesn't??? how are you gone check the real timing of it?
The inductive pick-up of a stroboscope won't work because of the screen so you just have to believe it's OK and I'm a very bad believer.

captinjohn

<hr />I am sure it will work if you take the spark plug cap off and use a 3 inch piece of spark plug wire as a connector from braid wire to spark plug. You now hve a unshielded wire to place the induction pick-up on or around. A older battery powered Sears timing light will work too. Capt,n

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Kind of hard on the shielding but I slice the outer shielding and roll it away from the plug wire to use a strobe. This is after degreeing the hub or spinner backplate and affixing a pointer to view the timing marks under a strobe. That's how I found how our ignition "curves" were set up. Curve my arse. Steep ramp is more acurate.

TomBat74

Hey All
as you can tell by this early hour of my post I am working on getting my evolution 26gt to work with a syssa ignition. I have had if for some time and misplaced the instructions. so the story goes like this. Installed the sensor in the correct holder and mounted to engine. wired switch and battery. the hub on the engine has a ferro magnet not a rare earth. I flipped the thing over a few times with the ignition on and I (by accident ) didn't have the spark plug fully in the boot. I have not gotten this thing to spark once at all yet? any pointers for the evolution 26 with the aftermarket ignition? did I cook the sensor by not having the spark plug installed into the boot correctly? I tried flipping the hall sensor over in the holder as well with no luck? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated! this is my first gasser experience and so far not off to a great start! this darn thing is keeping me up! Thanks everyone!

Tom

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

You'll have to wait for Pe on this one. He's the MVVS expert around these parts.

captinjohn

This is a photo of my good old Sears timing light on a mag ignition. You can read the size of the prop with the engine running! By the way...that mag did have a fair amount of sparkadvance! This is why CD ignition does not give more power over a mag. The engine was a MB290 Mac...around 29cc. Capt,n

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I'll request you might expand on the mag versus CDI power differences?

captinjohn

<hr />Hi Tom,
A lot of people think a flywheel mag has a "fixed timing" but the more up to date FW mags do have a advance that can give more power, (equal too CD ignition) and also a good idle.

I hope that fills your request. Best Regards Capt,n

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Works for me. I've never seen all that much difference in peak output between one or the other, that's why I was curious.