No activity here for a while.

My V2 is running great still. Not a single issue. A great performer. An animal in the air.

The V1 I rebuilt with V2 parts has 2 hours on it on the bench and it too runs great.

I think these V2 Engines are keepers!

Without having to research this entire thread, how again, do I tell if I have a V1 vs V2 engine, just by looking at it? I have not had a chance to run it yet.

The V1 uses a gasket between the crankcase halves. Other than that I don't know a way without removing the cylinder. Anyone else have any knowledge of this?

How long ago did you buy it?

Rex,

Trouble is, I bought it NIB at a swap meet, so I don't know when the original buyer purchased it. I will have a look and see if there is a gasket between the crankcase halves. Thanks!

You definitely want a V2. Many if not most of us had issues with the V1 Engines. Crankcase leaks from the gasket was one thing and piston, cylinder issues was another. The V2 Cylinder has much more support around the piston. I have had both and was very surprised when I saw the lower part of the V1 cylinder. The v2 engines are great.

I have a V2 that lasted about 1 gallon. It started,ran and idled perfect out of the box. It deadsticked and wont restart. I sent it back to redwing rc in May. They don't know whats wrong and or don't know how to fix it. I heard most of the V2 are doing ok but not mine. They are quite loud though. If you buy one get it from anyone but redwing as the service on this one is terrible.

I have several of the V.1's and the guys at IBSeeinguRC are incredible in respect to customer service. Johnny on the spot with sales and service. i can't say enough good things about those guys as they have helped me several times with my PTE engines.

What is there problem.Should take about 10 mints to find out why your engine will not run. Does it have spark?
BCCHI

I'm with bcchi. Not that much to go wrong. Not like Redwing at all. My experiences with them have been all good. Looks like your engine fell thru the cracks.

My V1 that I rebuilt to V2 specs, basically all new except the crank and carb assembly is running well now. 2 hours of bench running and now 9 flights and all is well. Not a sign of a leak anywhere and a great idle.

I'm using a 19x8 on my PTE-36 Engines. Has anyone used a 20x6 with any success?

A 20x6 is a different prop made for a 50 it's just jot a bigger mass. know what I mean its all over bigger than a 19x8 ! iv tried one it's a monster for a 30 engine!

The 76-inch UltraRC Giles 202 is the model that I flew with the PTE36R and a 20x6 Xoar prop. The flight appeared to be in a kind of slow motion but it flew very well and there wasn't a lot of difference in speed between flying level or climbing. The model slowed quickly on the landing approachs with the idle speed set a little under 1700 RPM. However, I switched back to the Xoar 19-3DA prop because I preferred the livelier performance.
Take a look at helodrvr's post (#275) on page 11 of this thread. His results with the 20x6 were vastly differently from mine.

I have a 20 x 6 on my 1/4 Sopwith Pup, which suits that model, I used to have it in a extra and I think I tried a 19x8 and a 3 blade (can't remember the size) but the 19x8 seemed nice for that model.

I have been using 19x8. It probably is the best size for my 30cc aerobatic planes.

19-3DA similar to 19x8

I have a PTE36 engine. It runs very well however, even though I supposedly have the new fixed version muffler that looks soldered together?? I have now the 4th muffler tailpipe failure. The guys have replaced it for me each time, but they are now reluctant too. So is the new muffler a problem too??? Anybody....

POS Save your money

I put a DLE muffler on mine and never looked back

I had mine tig welded before I even ran mine. The guy I work for is a very good welder. I can probably get him to weld up yours if you would like. It only took 5 minutes or less. Not as pretty smooth as the oem but its a muffler. The original welds are done with a process called vacuum brazing. Basically the parts are put into a high temp furnance and taken up to about 1900 degrees under a extremely low vacuum. Makes for a very smooth and clean looking weld. Melts the brazing material that is applied to the weld areas and fuses them together.
Jeff

I use a sturdier and less noisy Bisson muffler.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2105983http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2105984

Small problem with 1900 F and aluminum, no?

Yes the aluminum is run at a lower tempature. I'm not sure at what temp but as smooth as the welds are they are done with a vacuum welding process. Most of the parts we have run have been stainless and carbon steel and are brazed at 1925 deg f. Tks for catching that. I will have to ask my boss what temp alum is brazed at.
Jeff