|
RE: New DLE 35
RCGUY59, how would you compare this new 35 to the 30? More power? same handling?
|
RE: New DLE 35
Yup. The 35 seems to run, or at least sound better, at part-throttle. Idle and transition are fine and WOT power is impressive. Yesterday I was outrunning a TF GS P-40 powered by a DA 50. I can't wait to get my mits on an 18-12 prop to try. It's a perfect match for this Bearcat.
|
RE: New DLE 35
What is the wingspan and weight of your bearcat? That is great news. I have a G38 in my old Fokker DVII and it needs a good power boost. I think this might be the ticket. I needed a rear exhaust engine to replace it so it would fit properly.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace What is the wingspan and weight of your bearcat? That is great news. I have a G38 in my old Fokker DVII and it needs a good power boost. I think this might be the ticket. I needed a rear exhaust engine to replace it so it would fit properly. 73" wingspan, mine is in the 16 lbs range. |
RE: New DLE 35
Mine is also a bit over 16 lbs. which puts the wing loading at about 43 oz./sq.ft.. With flaps down, pulling back the power results in instant but manageable sink. It's actually fairly easy to land.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: rcguy59 Mine is also a bit over 16 lbs. which puts the wing loading at about 43 oz./sq.ft.. With flaps down, pulling back the power results in instant but manageable sink. It's actually fairly easy to land. I am actually waiting till Tower gets a supply of DLE 35's in for the discount. I want more war emergency power! |
RE: New DLE 35
That's why I like the Sierra gear. When I first put this bird together, I used a set of SpringAir gear that I had on hand. They weren't up to it. In the mean time I had decided that the Saito 180 just wasn't enough, either. I shelved the airplane until the DLE 35RA was announced. Already having three of the DLE 30's, I had high hopes. At first I tried to order the electric ESM retracts from VQ Warbirds. Tomas said they were sold out, then offered me a good price on the Sierras. Best thing that could have happened. I already had a set of Sierras in my TF GS P-47 that have taken a lot of abuse and still perform flawlessly. The Sierra gear aren't cheap, but they're a bargain in the long run. Both airplanes use the Robart tail retracts and Robart air kits. ZERO problems.
|
RE: New DLE 35
I am getting 7,200 - 7,300 with the Xoar 18-10 on the DLE30, well broken in.
ORIGINAL: rcguy59 I'm using the Xoar 18-10. I got 7400 rpm after about half a gallon total time, I like this combination more every time I fly it. |
RE: New DLE 35
Anyone had problems mounted inverted with fuel dripping on the muffler? some of the members at the club were asking if fuel did drip on the muffler from mid rpm fuel spitting if could catch fire?
|
RE: New DLE 35
I haven't heard of this being a problem with the after-market inverted pitts-style mufflers.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: airraptor Anyone had problems mounted inverted with fuel dripping on the muffler? some of the members at the club were asking if fuel did drip on the muffler from mid rpm fuel spitting if could catch fire? |
RE: New DLE 35
I've had no problems with the 35 in my Bearcat. no problems with re-starts, either. Mine handles just like my 30's, but with noticably more power. So far, so good.
|
RE: New DLE 35
Guys, I just ordered my DLE 35 today!! Should have it this week before the long holiday weekend. Hopefull I will have it installed and be ready to test run it. From what I was told is they recomend the Stihl HP Ultra Oil mix at 32:1 for the break in period. After which I can adjust to 40:1 mix. It is encouraging to hear that this little engine should run right out of the box and requires only a small amount of carb adjustment to get it right. I am placing this engine in an RC Guys Super Decathlon. It sounds like 19-8 is the prop of choice for this engine from what I have read in this thread. I am thinking several tanks of 32:1 through the motor on the ground then running it in by flying it around on the remainder of that gallon. After i expend the first gallon will it be safe to move up to a 40:1 mix like they suggest. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.
Paul |
RE: New DLE 35
Sounds like you got good advice. Did you order it from ValleyView? Using an 18-8 for the first few tanks will avoid excess heat during break-in. I just picked up two DLE 20's from ValleyView today for a P-38. The adventure begins. Let us know how it goes for you.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: WI53072 Guys, I just ordered my DLE 35 today!! Should have it this week before the long holiday weekend. Hopefull I will have it installed and be ready to test run it. From what I was told is they recomend the Stihl HP Ultra Oil mix at 32:1 for the break in period. After which I can adjust to 40:1 mix. It is encouraging to hear that this little engine should run right out of the box and requires only a small amount of carb adjustment to get it right. I am placing this engine in an RC Guys Super Decathlon. It sounds like 19-8 is the prop of choice for this engine from what I have read in this thread. I am thinking several tanks of 32:1 through the motor on the ground then running it in by flying it around on the remainder of that gallon. After i expend the first gallon will it be safe to move up to a 40:1 mix like they suggest. Any input here would be greatly appreciated. Paul |
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: ahicks ORIGINAL: WI53072 Guys, I just ordered my DLE 35 today!! Should have it this week before the long holiday weekend. Hopefull I will have it installed and be ready to test run it. From what I was told is they recomend the Stihl HP Ultra Oil mix at 32:1 for the break in period. After which I can adjust to 40:1 mix. It is encouraging to hear that this little engine should run right out of the box and requires only a small amount of carb adjustment to get it right. I am placing this engine in an RC Guys Super Decathlon. It sounds like 19-8 is the prop of choice for this engine from what I have read in this thread. I am thinking several tanks of 32:1 through the motor on the ground then running it in by flying it around on the remainder of that gallon. After i expend the first gallon will it be safe to move up to a 40:1 mix like they suggest. Any input here would be greatly appreciated. Paul Al, I couldn't agree more. I was only trying to say that it is nice that from what I had heard the engine will run right out of the box. I have heard so many stories about engines that wont run or barely run out of the box. I feel, if it at least it will start then I have a good chance of getting through the initial set-up and fine tuning. Paul |
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: rcguy59 Sounds like you got good advice. Did you order it from ValleyView? Using an 18-8 for the first few tanks will avoid excess heat during break-in. I just picked up two DLE 20's from ValleyView today for a P-38. The adventure begins. Let us know how it goes for you. Thanks for the prop advice. Yes i got the engine from Valleyview. Tammy is going to expidite it so it arrives before the upcomming long holiday weekend. The cost to do that...nothing!!! Very good customer support at Valleyview RC. Is there a good thread that goes through the basic adjustments/RPM ranges do's and dont's with the DLE engines?? Valleyview suggests the Stihl 2 cycle oil mix and suggest 32:1 to begin with. What i was unable to ascertain was how many tanks to run at the 32:1 mix? Thanks! Paul |
RE: New DLE 35
For the 20cc, forever. Just stick with 32:1. Smaller engines need more oil in the fuel to offset the lower fuel (and oil) flow.
|
RE: New DLE 35
Sorry, I had the DLE20 in mind. For the 35, a gallon or so of 32:1 should be enough, then you can go to 40:1 synth.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: WI53072 Is there a good thread that goes through the basic adjustments/RPM ranges do's and dont's with the DLE engines?? Valleyview suggests the Stihl 2 cycle oil mix and suggest 32:1 to begin with. What i was unable to ascertain was how many tanks to run at the 32:1 mix? Thanks! Paul I can tell you that there is nothing unique about tuning your new engine. It tunes the same as the rest of these engines, so if you run across something that makes sense to you, go for it! Meanwhile, maybe somebody can post a link that might lead you to something more specific, related to getting that engine tuned? Worst case, send me a PM with your email. I'll send you a couple links found on other sites. The mods frown on posting info like that here. Mods - Can't believe we don't have that info in the rookie section already? |
RE: New DLE 35
as far as tuning get engine running let run about 10 mins then open throttle wide open and ajust high end first to max rpms like a glow engine. once you start leaning out engine it will start slowing down, then backup screw it max rpms are back then richen it abot to a 200 rpm drop rich side your done with that. then idle down to about 1700 and wait 5 sec, gag throttle open if engine stalls or hesitates its to lean on the low endONLY turn screw openthesame with of the screwdrive slot at a time. folks have ahabit of turning screws to much they are very senstive....repeat till engine has no hesitation or stumble form idle to wide open no matter how fast tyou gag it and your set , under any reason NEVER I REPEAT NEVER force screws tight all the way closed if your wainting to reset to factory setting. if you do go ahead and order your self another carb cause you just runnied that one ... good luck and happy flying
|
RE: New DLE 35
Why do you want to back it off to lose 2-300rpm? Its not a glow engine! Set the high speed needle for maximum rpm and leave it there!!!
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: TimBle Why do you want to back it off to lose 2-300rpm? Its not a glow engine! Set the high speed needle for maximum rpm and leave it there!!! That's me though, FWIW. -Al |
RE: New DLE 35
one needs to richen high side ajustmentabout 200 rpm to 300rpm because engine will still lean out when unwinding during flight if to lean engine will get hot andpossibly sieze. and you sure dont what the cly. and the piston becoming one. wont make for a good day. and a very costly one as well. a gas engine slinging a 19x8 proparound 8000 if it suddenly stops . besides running the engine the prop bolts like on a dle will proubly shear off and chunck the prop and spinner. possibly even break the crank. bend the rod ect. list of damage can go on and on
|
RE: New DLE 35
Plus 1 for a bit on the rich side (unless you're in a race!).
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: rcguy59 That's why I like the Sierra gear. When I first put this bird together, I used a set of SpringAir gear that I had on hand. They weren't up to it. thanks Ed |
RE: New DLE 35
I don't know the part # of these retracts. They're probably 20 years old. The main problem lies in the length of the leg. It bent very easily and would wedge the tire in the well, refusing to come back down when needed. I got WAY too much belly-landing practice. The retracts themselves were adequate, (barely) but the internal spring was a bit weak. The Sierras have been flawless and really let me enjoy flying this brick without worrying about the gear.
|
RE: New DLE 35
Sorry chaps but the leaning out of a pumped petrol engine carburettor "once it unloads" is hogwash. This is glow engine thinking and it does NOT apply to a petrol engine.
<div> </div><div>Rich running engines are not more reliable than a slighly lean engine. It may run a few degrees cooler. If there petrol, air and spark it will fire....simple as that.</div><div> </div><div>Lastly how in heck is gaining altitude in flight it going to change the mixture significantly? Air is a lot less dense than water so it does not change barometric pressure significantly every 10m altitude gained.</div><div> </div><div>tuning these things is so simple. allow for 30sec to warm up and open up to WOT and set the high speed needle for peak rpm.</div><div>Then ease back on the throttle till its starts to pop and miss (4 stroke) and lean the LOW sped needle till it goes away, then ease back on the throotle again till the next 4 stroking point is reached and lean the LSN again till it stops. repeat till you get to idle. Check for transition through the rev range and anywhere it feels lean, richen back up a little, or if it still 4stroke, lean further. Work you way back up to WOT and then again ease back on the thottle. If no 4 stroking occurs then its good to go but its likely it will still have a spot somewhere in the rev range where it will briefly 4 stroke.</div><div> </div><div>forget your glow engine thinking with petrol engines.</div> |
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: TimBle Rich running engines are not more reliable than a slighly lean engine. It may run a few degrees cooler. If there petrol, air and spark it will fire....simple as that. |
RE: New DLE 35
sounds good chap but your forgeting many things? what ever happen to wind drag and the load on the engine. due to the weight of the aircraft plus the speed of the aircraft. and who said anything abour baro. pressure?so your saying that a engine turns the same rpms on the ground as it does in a 100 mph. in adive WRONG ! you.run your engines lean and see what happens when they suddenly lock up.
|
RE: New DLE 35
I will add my two cent's here. Past experience with engine's, at the very least, running lean can burn a hole in the piston from excessive heat at detination.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: acerc I will add my two cent's here. Past experience with engine's, at the very least, running lean can burn a hole in the piston from excessive heat at detination. tune it like Tim said. i have never ran these rich on the ground so they are just right because they unload in the air. that is just silly. its a pumped engine. on you glow engine with a pump did you max it out then richen it so it could be just right when it unloads. lol no you didnt. so why would do the same here. Most guys have to have their engines on the rich side because they dont know how to cool these engines correctly so they have to run the on the rich side to help with cooling. |
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: airraptor Most guys have to have their engines on the rich side because they dont know how to cool these engines correctly so they have to run the on the rich side to help with cooling. |
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: TimBle Sorry chaps but the leaning out of a pumped petrol engine carburettor "once it unloads" is hogwash. This is glow engine thinking and it does NOT apply to a petrol engine. <div> </div><div>Rich running engines are not more reliable than a slighly lean engine. It may run a few degrees cooler. If there petrol, air and spark it will fire....simple as that.</div><div> </div><div>Lastly how in heck is gaining altitude in flight it going to change the mixture significantly? Air is a lot less dense than water so it does not change barometric pressure significantly every 10m altitude gained.</div><div> </div><div>tuning these things is so simple. allow for 30sec to warm up and open up to WOT and set the high speed needle for peak rpm.</div><div>Then ease back on the throttle till its starts to pop and miss (4 stroke) and lean the LOW sped needle till it goes away, then ease back on the throotle again till the next 4 stroking point is reached and lean the LSN again till it stops. repeat till you get to idle. Check for transition through the rev range and anywhere it feels lean, richen back up a little, or if it still 4stroke, lean further. Work you way back up to WOT and then again ease back on the thottle. If no 4 stroking occurs then its good to go but its likely it will still have a spot somewhere in the rev range where it will briefly 4 stroke.</div><div> </div><div>forget your glow engine thinking with petrol engines.</div> Warm the engine up a bit and adjust the HI-speed untill you get max RPM and then richen it to just starting to drop RPM(about 50 RPM or so). Set the idle mix so the engine does not stumble on a quick opening of the throttle. Fly your airplane a bit and if it sounds good make a couple of hi-speed passes and kill the engine in flight and glide it too a landing. Most airplanes will land easy with engine dead if you set up your landing approach right. The idea is to stop the engine in flight and land for that important sparkplug check too see if the Hi-speed mix is set correct. The sparkplug should be a tan color. If white or the mix is too lean. If real dark ...the mix is too rich. Give it a try...you got too know if you can land that bird on a dead stick anyway. |
RE: New DLE 35
anyway you all tune your engine as you please we can disgree all night 200 rpm richis the setting on the high side. but we seem to have a big know it all war here .that rich mixtureis the way my engines runperfect.and i work on alot of engines for other folks i just finished a set ofdle-55 to go on a yellow aircraftp-38 lighting one runing clockwise and one running counter clockwise. with 3 bladed props one pusher and one pulling anyway good luck i have nothing else to say about tuneing carbs i know what im doing! this room is about the new dle-35 not a he said she said 200rpm hackering chat
|
RE: New DLE 35
Free Rcexl Opto gas kill switch, CM6 spark plug and Black switch with charge jack and fuel dot included with engine purchase! makes it a pretty god deal. should be a Monster.
|
RE: New DLE 35
ORIGINAL: SigMan Free Rcexl Opto gas kill switch, CM6 spark plug and Black switch with charge jack and fuel dot included with engine purchase! makes it a pretty god deal. should be a Monster. where?? |
RE: New DLE 35
|
RE: New DLE 35
Anyone still not believing the price of this engine isn't going to drop once the pipeline fills up?
|
RE: New DLE 35
Supply and demand. No more demand no more overpriced.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:27 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.