Any solution that involves removal of the "felt clunk" from the tank is not a good long-term solution. Small particles will not be blocked by regular gas filters and eventually they will plug up your carb.

I replaced the felt clunk with a sinterek clunk and use the good in-line gasoline filter. The sintered clunk is heavier and it does the same job of reducing air bubbles like the felt one does as well as the filtering. The only drawback is that eventually the sintered clunk will clog with gunk/dirt before the felt one does. Not sure when that will happen.
If I'm still alive and the engine is still running when it does clog I'll report back ! :)

Thanks guys this is great info. For now the tank is in and will try as is with the recommended setup from Evolution. I did add a wide brass nut on the pickup line just behind the felt clunk to add some weight. It is going to be a mission to get this tank out so hopefully it works well. Thanks for the recommendation on the Echo black tubing I will take a look into that. I agree the felt clunk is too big for the size tanks its going into. Its pretty much a quarter of the height of my tank which probably means it will start sucking air when my 8oz tank still has 2oz in it. These clunks should still have a small centered hole for the pick up and then afterwards expand around the felt filter so that it can pick up most of the fuel in small tanks.

Thanks Brian, I will go look at the filter clunk you used on yours

As a general question, are there not in line felt filters that could be used? Generally I never used tank filters on any of my planes bigger gas or Nitro as you have to strip the tank to check them. In line would be so much easier and you could stick to 2 pipe tank systems like old glo tanks instead of now having to need 3 pipes. Seems much simpler. How come I dont have to use felt filters on my larger 23cc, 26cc, 55cc etc?

Thanks again
TtT

Can you shorten the brass tubing at all inside the tank to give you a little more flex? My other though is that 8 oz is a pretty long flight. .. Think 15 minutes or so. ... so for me it is possible I just never drained the tank down to the point where the flexibility was an issue.

Though = thought

The carbs on these smaller gassers need filtering more so than the typical Walbro carb. When a Walbro gets dirty it's rather simple to clean it. I'm sure it would be a difficult job to clean one of these 10GX carbs so I'd rather have a clunk or an inline filter clog before the carb.
Also, I use the felt clunk on the 15GX in a 14oz tank with no troubles. Using the nut weight on the felt clunk as you did will work to keep the clunk down and moving back&forth.

Here is the sintered clunk: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&P=9&I=LXD741

If you can find a Dubro final filter use that or a Sullivan crap-trap
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD742&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&P=9&I=LXFU76

The greatest need for the felt filter in the clunk is to dissipate the air bubbles in the tank. As mentioned in the instructions the carb is very sensitive to what most would see as 'normal' air bubbles in the fuel line. Using the included filter eliminates this problem and why we included it with the package to insure you have a successful experience. Unless you only have access to really crappy gas and if take reasonable care to keep you fuel clean I don't think you will ever have an issue with a clogged filter in the tank.

Pete

I've used the felt clunks on my test stand with a small tank . . . and it sucked the tank dry ! !
Was running the NV40GS using the K&S tubing . . . no problems.

T-man49 in Al

If we could all get a test stand to fly we'd be in business I guess! :)
Listen, the felt clunk didn't work for me in the small tank just as it didn't work for a select few others..Maybe it was the aggressive flying as I was testing the 10GX and the Meridan plane to see what both could do and how well they perform.
If the felt clunk is working for others fantastic ! It does work for me in a larger tank on the 15GX. and 33GX.
The sintered clunk works fine for me in the smaller tank. It stays at the bottom ,moves side-side ,it filters the fuel and it passes no more air bubbles to the carb than the supplied felt clunk. As I said earlier. a sintered clunk will clog before a felt one and I anticipate that to happen around 2025 or 2030.:)

Hey what props are you guys using after break in?

it might also be the shape of the tank, with the felt clunk you end up with a large part of rigid clunk, a short rubber fuel line and then the rigid brass… long skinny tanks will fair better as you have a longer tube, short tanks will fair worse. My 8oz tank was of the long skinny variety, but I can see how a more square shaped tank would run into issues.

12x8 on my RV-4… I'm moving the engine to a hangar 9 corsair .50 and its going to have a 12x6 3 blade.. I think.

I ran a 13x6 through 3 gallons and tried a 12x8 for gallon number 4. The plane was not that fast with the 13 but it had a lot of pull and the engine sounded and ran good with it.

Hi guys I have my 10gx for sale 150$ I love the engine but must fund a gs project. Had motor since last yr don't want to really sell it it's on rc groups under fuel engines z and I have ran an 11x7 3 blade on my 10 gx runs great but a 12x6 is perfect for it.

Dwayne,
It's a Seagull Piper Comanche twin from Horizon. I recently heard it has been discontinued but might still be available from online sources. Arf twins seem to become available for a few years then disappear. It is in final stages of preparation, so hopefully this spring I can maiden it. It is powered by two Evo 10cc engines. I am eager to see how the engines perform on a twin.
Don

What weight plane will this work on?
Thanks, Brian

7-8 pounds

I use a 12x8 it does a good job,,7 lb plane....

I know there was some talk about it but is Evolution still looking and making a conrod with needle rollers both sides? I love my 10cc engine but man its messy even after 5 litres of fuel through it at 20:1 Would be nice to run at 35:1 like other engines.

The lack of needle roller bearings at the top of the conrod have no bearing :o on the amount of oil. The general construction of the engine (ABC) requires the extra oil when compared to a ringed engine. Our 15 & 20cc engines both use a sleeve bearing at the top of the conrod but because they are ringed engines they easily run at a 32:1 ratio after break-in.

Pete

Thanks for that, someone had mentioned earlier in this or another thred that the bushed bearing were the reason for the higher oil content required. Why was the option taken to go ABC over a ringed engine then?

I'm using Motul 800 at 20:1. Is there any other oil I can use that would make a marked difference with the mess my engine currently makes?

Regards
TtT

The ABC was chosen over the ringed version in development because of the marked difference in the power output of the engine. I've never tried the Motul 800 you refer to so I can't be a judge of better or worse compared to other oils. Perhaps some of the other guys on this forum can answer that question better than I can.

Pete

Thanks for you help Pete

Pulled the plug out today just to check as it has a bit of an oil leak which is showing oil on the cap, inside and out. It has the copper washer like a glo plug. How best to seal it?

I also noticed the plug shows the engine is running rich and has a wet look and slight carbon inside plug. How should the plug look with an small ABC engine, light grey like other petrol engines? I dont want to go too lean and damage the engine

Regards
TtT

Hi all,
I purchased the Evolution 10CC and installed in a Meridian.....Have run about 1 1/2 gallons through it.....runs reliably and can set the high speed needle on the ground to achieve max RPM.....however in the air I cannot get that RPM level....have tried running a little richer and leaner on the ground but no difference in the air. In fact if I lean it up on the ground it really is sluggish in the air. Running 12 x 6 prop......any suggestion ?