RE: DL-50 engine
 

All DA exhaust parts fit on the DL.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

So the exhaust bolts are exactly the same? I thought i had read sometime ago , they we're slightly different. maybe that was on the first version DL's or something.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

If you want the nicest custom made header you will find, contact Karl Mueller in Canada. He built a beauty for me at a very reasonable price. Beautiful work. You won't want to put a cowl around it. Contact him at [email protected].

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Header bolt spacing is exactly the same, always have been on exhaust. Use 5mm metric bolts.

Ive got MTW canister/header setup for DA installed on my DL in comp-arf extra. Bolt straight on.

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/ga...?album=2&pos=3

Mounting pattern for standoffs is what is slightly different.

Cheers

Scott.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Rfabbre - tell us about the canister/muffler in your pic....

RE: DL-50 engine
 

I WAS TOLD THAT IF AND WHEN YOU BUILD A MUFFLER FOR FOR A GAS ENGINE IT TAKE ALOT OF MATH MATICS

RE: DL-50 engine
 

When mount the muffler, use locktite to lubricate the thread and do not overtight. I have to tap both mount holes to 6mm after the threads were stripped. It seems the alum material used on DL is soft.

Scott,

I like the idea of attaching the hitec servo arm to the carb. I did similar thing but with a PCB arm. Cheers.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

No doubt the aluminum is of a low grade,
I have found the bearing hubs will in large from heat causing the barings to spin in the hubs,
Im reparing two DL 50 at this moment, Had to buy new casing from Bob three month's ago, Cause the hubs where so bad on my personal engine after six flights.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

This morning was day two of "morning flying". Heat/humidity are too rough for me these days. Yesterday's was an "original" DL 50, thin ears, s/n 461.... on it's second gallon 32:1 Pennzoil. PT 22 x 8N at 7100. Today's was my newest version, s/n 7200, on it's third gallon or so, Pennzoil 32:1. NX 22 x 8, 7080rpm hot, idle 1540....using a J'Tec Pitts, and it sounds MELLOW, and obviously doesn't seem to have pulled power.

Very nice setups....still tweaking low ends a bit, but about settled in now. Really very reliable.

Definite, and huge, difference in "spool up" acceleration between the PT and NX. The NX is FAR better to accelerate from slow flying... the PT sort of spins, but doesn't "bite" real fast. Sort of like spinning a tire when you floor it....But once it gets going, it's okay.

My favorite props at this point definitely are the NX, JXF, PT in that order.
Great engines, so far.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Bob,

This is a muffler (canister) that I had made. It is 6 inches long and about 2 1/2 inches in diameter. As you can see, it mounts under the engine box. When I had mine made, I had to get several-guy wouldn't make just one-so I have some that I can let go very reasonably. I especially like the connector to the header because it isolates the muffler from some of the engine vibration. Here are a couple more pics. The one with the stock muffler is just to show size comparison.

What I really like is Karl's header. He does great work.

Email me if interested. [email protected]

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Bob,

Where does a Vess fall in your prop mix with the DL?

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Vess has never been run, so I can't say. Reports vary WILDLY depending on who is writing, so definitely I won't add my speculation.
I may try one sometime.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Bob,

You may have a totally different idea after trying a Vess.

Personally I rate a Vess (22 B in particular) higher than NX or Xor (both 22 X 8). Th reason is because Vess spools up quicker and moves more air. With it, flying the plane in constant is easier.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

I have a 23 A on my Yak I love it,

RE: DL-50 engine
 

I'm running a Vess 22B on my 30% YAK with a DL50. Best prop I've ever run. A flying buddy is turning a Vess 22C on his Yak with a DA50 and agrees with my thoughts.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

I am using a Vess 22A and really like the way it spools up-very quickly.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Gonna try an "A" soon.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Flew mine for the first time today. Wanted to get more in but the wind was gusting and constant across the runway. After 4 hours of waiting and shoting the breeze with some fellow club members i decided that WTH i was going to fly it. Started up easy and took off great.(straight up:D) The DL is a beast. It had more than enough power for anything that i wanted to try for a first flight and the high gusting wind. I need to tune the midrange a little better and dial in some expo to get the stick more in line with the throttle but all in all i am very pleased. BTW how many gallons of 32-1 before i can move up to a leaner mix. And i am turning a 23A at 7150 was the last tach reading 2 gallons through it so far. I can't wait for tomorrow that winds are suppose to be better and the heat a lot better, only going to get up to about 91 or so.:D:D:D

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Congrat's skillet!

I still absolutely love my DL. Got six more flights todayprolly about ten gallons throug it now. It's a no-brainer. It runs sweat!!!

I think you'll need two gallons of your break-in fuel.

Let us know how tomorrow goes.

Tim

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Tim,

Could you share your method for locating holes on the firewall? Your fuel line, throttle pushrod, etc. are dead on - very impressive.

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Bit of advice please

I am just trying to run my new DL for the first time. It runs well for a second or 2, followed by a stutter, then another good burst, somtimes it will just about stop before it has another burst, total running time without stoping is about 10seconds.
I have tried both needles in different positions, but it does not help.

Fuel flow from the tank is excellent

the carb is spotless

I get the impression it is lean rather than rich, (would not describe exhaust as over 'smokey')

it has backfired a few times

gas is fresh with 30/1

it drew fuel from the tank fairly quick when first cranked, so I assume the pump is working.

when turned on, you can hear the ignition clicking, the light also flickers when the engine is not firing (I assume this is normal?)

compression feels excellent.

sounds a bit like a 2 stroke motor cross bike with a 'whiskered' plug (plug is mint ,gap 18 thou)

have already damaged a prop edge against my gloved fingers as the result of kick back ouch !

Heeeeeeeeeeelp

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Sounds like the timing scensor may not be in the right place?

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Hi coronabob.

I've done this a couple of different ways;

The first way is to sharpen a piece of 2-56 pushrod wire on one end and, with the engine mounted to the firewall, hold the wire pushrod alongside the carb arm with the sharpened end contacting the firewall. This simulates the throttle pushrod coming out of the firewall. I also simulate the angle that the throttle pushrod will be going through the firewall taking into account the location of the throttle servo. I then "sight down" the wire pushrod from the top and side to see if I'm hitting the firewall in the right location. If using a ball link on the carb, this has to be accounted for (the wire would be off to the side a bit to account for the "standoff" of the ball). Also, you have to account for the arc of the carb arm - you have to "average out" the highest and lowest location of the hole in the firewall.

Once I think I have the wire pushrod I'm holding in the right spot, I just push it into the firewall to make a dimple. Then, I drill my hole (remembering the angle, if any).

Another method I've used is to make a "dummy" pushrod and actually connect it to the carb arm (using whatever method you will actually use for the finished model). For the DL, I used a ball link, so I thread a nylon ball link ball onto a pushrod wire, Then I cut off the wire to the length between the carb arm and the firewall. This takes a little "trial and error" until you get the dummy pushrod short enough - start by cutting it long - and don't forget to take into account the arc of the carb arm - position the carb arm so it will be halfway through the arc.

Once you get the dummy pushrod the correct length, connect the pusrod to the carb arm and position the end of the wire on the firewall (again, also taking into account the angle the pushrod will go through the firewall due to the location of the throttle servo).

Once you have the dummy pushrod on the firewall in the location you want to drill your hole, mark the spot with a ballpoint pen, then drill your hole.

For drilling the hole, an extended (12" ) drill is helpful because you can see the angle better and may not have to remove the engine. I think you can get extended drill bits from Harry Higly, probably also from the hardware shop. If you can't get or don't want to take the time to find an extended drill bit, you can CA a regular drill into the end of the appropriate-size brass tube. When you're done, you can heat the tube with a hobby torch to remove the drill. Or, you can just sharpen the end of the brass tube and use THAT for drilling the hole (use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to sharpen the outside and a #11 blade to sharpen the inside of the tube). Only, if you use the brass tube to cut the hole, push it hard into the firewall by hand before chucking into the drill, otherwise, the tube will "walk" on you.

Of course, the closer the carb arm is to the firewall the more accurate you need to be.

...And thanks for asking. :)

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Hey guys got flight time today and WOW:D The DL is awesome. I love the ease of starting and the power. Vertical is no problem. Takeoffs are a breeze and langings with that big prop out front is great. I need to tune it better because it four strokes in the mid range. I do have one question and that is when i pull into a straight up vertical the plane as it is going away from me veres to the left and will not climb straight up unless i apply rudder imput. A couple of fellow flyers at the field at first thought that the elevators might be off checked and were right. I brought up the comment that since the plane was desighed for a smaller engine could it not have enough right thrust. The DL is a beast and is turning the 23A Vess great. Can a bigger engine cause this issue??

RE: DL-50 engine
 

Larger diameter props create more profound P-factor. Learning the "fly" the rudder is something you should do, anyway. Right thrust settings are general, and static, meaning they are only valid at "x" thrust, with "y" diameter prop (designers' choices). Real world always needs tweaking. "Hands off" is an un-realistic goal, and we all should learn to "fly" the controls needed to track like we want.