Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
02-19-2014, 07:44 AM
#1701
I have this book. I also just had this discussion with a long-time model aircraft designer who agrees 100% with the picture on this book! Of course, I do NOT.
To qualify as a “bad” airplane, the design must fail to meet the goals of the designer OR to serve any useful purpose in expanding the bounds of aviation.
The Gee Bee R1 was a radical new design built to accomplish two things:
1) smoke the competition at the 1932 Cleveland Air Races.
2) set a new land-plane speed record.
It accomplished both goals, setting a course record that stood for 4 years and a top speed that stood for 5 years and thus, should be regarded as one of the world’s GREAT airplanes.
To qualify as a “bad” airplane, the design must fail to meet the goals of the designer OR to serve any useful purpose in expanding the bounds of aviation.
The Gee Bee R1 was a radical new design built to accomplish two things:
1) smoke the competition at the 1932 Cleveland Air Races.
2) set a new land-plane speed record.
It accomplished both goals, setting a course record that stood for 4 years and a top speed that stood for 5 years and thus, should be regarded as one of the world’s GREAT airplanes.
02-19-2014, 05:06 PM
#1707
My Feedback: (8)
Richard the batteries I use are Nickle metal hydride sub c 6v X2 and X2 on the 4.8v ignition batteries and they weigh 3 1/2 lbs combined all in the nose and the rudder tray has been moved forward by 8" from the original manual suggestion as well as cut down from its original size ...that could be why the lead was needed in the tail.
Last edited by n8622t; 02-19-2014 at 05:07 PM. Reason: wrong info
02-19-2014, 08:26 PM
#1709
My Feedback: (8)
Thanks Richard agreed on the battery placement but it is only 12.5 oz of lead, easily removed at a later time... The platform over the engine was intended for lead and has been removed. Also, I had already followed your advice on the thro-rud mix. I will remove the lead after theaiden and that will put it at 37 1/2 lbs. ok that's it for now and only need to build a rack to make the drive to Monroe Louisiana 6 1/2 hour drive but worth it. Huge super smooth grass runway in the middle of 1000 acres of cotton field and a great bunch if guys that drink beer
ill give ya a full report when I get back home and thanks again for the help
ill give ya a full report when I get back home and thanks again for the help
02-19-2014, 10:56 PM
#1710
Thanks Richard agreed on the battery placement but it is only 12.5 oz of lead, easily removed at a later time... The platform over the engine was intended for lead and has been removed. Also, I had already followed your advice on the thro-rud mix. I will remove the lead after theaiden and that will put it at 37 1/2 lbs. ok that's it for now and only need to build a rack to make the drive to Monroe Louisiana 6 1/2 hour drive but worth it. Huge super smooth grass runway in the middle of 1000 acres of cotton field and a great bunch if guys that drink beer
ill give ya a full report when I get back home and thanks again for the help
ill give ya a full report when I get back home and thanks again for the help
02-19-2014, 11:50 PM
#1712
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Orange, CA
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Hello Everybody... Its Been awile Since Ive been on here but have been slowly Working on my Gee Bee Project. Thought I would share some Photos with you. Ill Be using the Moki and Im sure the Wing Loading will be through the roof. So I decided to Strengthen My Connection Points at the Rib Former and In the Wings. If there is a failure it will be the Wings them selves. I Hope you enjoy the Pictures.
02-22-2014, 12:13 PM
#1715
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Santa Clara, CA
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You guys are making a big mistake, especially mounting your engine with T-Nuts, when you tighten the bolts that go through them it puts pressure at the joint and they fracture here, I had a friend that raced 42% formula one and he lost his airplane, because these T-Nuts all broke. You have an expesive item hanging on these parts,beleilve me.
Good Luck,
Paul Steiner
Good Luck,
Paul Steiner
02-22-2014, 05:53 PM
#1716
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Orange, CA
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Hey Paul... Ive Never had a Tee Nut Fail like what your Explaining... What Material were they made of? Were they Regular Steel? These are stainless steel... I also plan to back them up with Washers and Lock nuts for insurance... I remember that coming up in Conversation awile back and asked around to see if anyone has had that problem before... Everyone I had spoke to said the same. They didnt have problems with them either. Perhaps it will make a Difference with the Motor that is being used, Moki's Run very Smooth at all RPM ranges. Anyways... Thanks for the heads up though. Ill keep an eye on them.
02-23-2014, 03:14 PM
#1723
02-24-2014, 03:20 PM
#1725
While I appreciate your praise for my Gee Bee exploits, I have been paying close attention to this airplane since I built my first Gee Bee in 1993… since I saw Delmar FLY THE Gee Bee at the Watsonville, CA airshow in 1994 and MANY, MANY, MANY other air shows… that means I have been paying attention, flying, and making videos and WATCHING every video of every pilot flying this airplane for 20 years!
In my opinion, the BEST, most realistic handling of the CARF-Models Gee Bee R2 is by Hannes Lutzenberger with his radial-powered version. THIS is the yardstick by which all future flights should be measured
. IF you wish to duplicate Delmar's flying, THIS is what to strive for...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRU0jDBHXtQ