brianl1620

Well I just bought a new in the box byrons cap 21, before I start, I would like some input on engines, mods to make and any other help out there somebody might have. Thanks

brianl1620

I plan on glassing and painting this kit, I don't want to use a gasser because of the foam, but was looking at supertigre or moki.

brianl1620

What about the supertigre 4500?

Texastbird

http://www.rcmplans.com/issues/reque...091984-1-1.pdf
How about the RCM review from back when?
I'm thing O.S. 160 for glow. DLE 30 for gas.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Moki 2.10 would haul it around pretty good. It is not a 3d plane, so there is no need to power it like one. They had adequate power on a G-38 if Econokoted, and a Moki puts out more power that those do.

stunt-man

I had 2 of this plane and both eventually crashed. The wing loading on this plane is very high so if you slow it down too much it will snap violently on it's back. Therefore keep it as light as possible. I covered mine with Econokote. Glassing would be out of the question because of the weight. I used a Zenoah G38 for power and that worked out fine.

Regarding modifications, I would scrap the stock servo installations for ailerons and elevator. Mount one servo for each aileron and locate at the midpoint of the aileron. Cut grooves in the wing bottom to take the servo leads. Use one servo per elevator half. All should be high torque servos with metal gears.

Always be aware that this plane is going to snap violently at some time.

Hope this helps

Starfighter

My Feedback: (78)

Hi, name is Ken (Starfighter).
I have a lot of experience with Cap 21s, and I love them. They are very honest to control inputs, if you balance them at the exact point, or a little nose heavy. If you do not balance them correctly, they will exhibit the dreaded "Cap Snap". This only happens if the acft. is not balanced correctly, or if you employ excessive control throws.
Really, you should not have a problem if it is balanced either at the exact recommended spot, or nose heavy (just a little). Why nose heavy? Well, ALL Caps have dramatic response from the elevator, and the slight nose heaviness will "dampen"(soften) the response and it will be a joy to fly. Also, DO NOT attempt to land a Cap 21 slowly. (ala Yak 54.) Cap 21s will not land at a crawl w/o bad results. You MUST fly it to touchdown and correctly flair the arrival. Do this, and you will love it.
Good luck.

brianl1620

I'm really wanting too glass this plane, why is glassing out of the question, also does anyone know of some good mods? I'm going too go with the moki 2.10.

GreaTOne_65

I also, owned one of the Byron Cap's. It is a beautiful model, but like has indicated before, a hand full to land, and glassing it will only compound the problem. Glassing is just to heavy, keep it light, us econkote, or some other low heat covering.

brianl1620

Well after a lot of research, I have chosen too use carbon tissue or carbon veil, it is 1/4 the weight of glassing, and stronger and provides a super smooth surface, applied the same way as glassing, using west system epoxy resin.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

That may not be 100% accurate. Glassing an airplane is all about controlling the amount of epoxy you apply. With the CF veil it will take more primer to cover the black finish so it does have the potential to be heavier. It works well for the CL guys simply because they adhere it with dope and not epoxy. I have had great success glassing with 3/4 oz cloth and epoxy. You would most likley want to go with 1 oz cloth over foam. The best way to glass the wings and not add a bunch of weight would be to glass them, lay on a layer of peel ply, breather and then vacuum bag them. The peel ply would pull out any eccess resin and leave a finish that would require little sanding before primer. If I was to build the same airplane, I would cut new cores from 1 lb foam and bag some 1/16" balsa skins on them. Finish would be ultrakote.