JokaRed3

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I have a World Models Patty Wagstaff Extra 300 im wanting to get a good engine for it.
Im looking into Fuji , 3W, or a zdz.

Im looking into a Fuji 64 its
Weight w/muffler: 4.8 LB
Output: 5.7 HP @ 9000 rpm
every one knows you cant reach that rpm with a gas engine looking more like 7500 rpm.
im am considering a 3W 75
weight with/0 muff. 4.75 lb.
7.5 HP
which i know its a lot of power but its weight is around the same.
I don't want a DA 50 they are to expensive for what they are. And the zenoah 62 are to heavy for the power they give off I know the Fuji is about there as well but there a better engine then the zenoah. Can someone help me with there opinion about your experience with this plane. thanks.

I read someone put a 3W48 B2 , and trying to find out how that worked out on a pending email to that person.

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

I have a YW 48cc twin in mine. Beautifull.

http://www.ywengines.com



The plugs stick out of the cowl a little but the twin sound is great


Mine pulls 7400 Rpm with a 22x8 Bolly carbon Prop



Regards

WilsonFlyer

My Feedback: (13)

A lot of people really like the Brison 3.2 on this bird (including me). There is a LONG thread about this plane and powerplants on it (and a lot of other stuff too) that was opened when the plane shipped and is still running. It's unusual but it must have slipped to page 2 or 3 this week for some reason. Good reading.

www.brisonaircraft.com

SMALLFLY-

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I just posted a good used BME 50 for sale in the marketplace if your interested

peteflyrc

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I have GP extra with a a g45 zenoha with a 20-10 prop that flys very well ,it wont 3d ,but one heck of a nice pattern plane mine also has a band b smoke system also,happy flying

TD1

The ZDZ 50 would be a good option they are fairly powerful and a lot lighter than the Fuji and 3w.
The 3w 75 is insane on that airframe way too much power and you would have ground clearance problems because of the prop.


Tiago Dias

AMA-69405

My Feedback: (22)

I've been flying a World Models 300S Wagstaff for about 10 months, using the FPE 3.2 (52cc) engine. This is, of course, just about twice as much engine as is recommended by the kit manufacturer (O.S. 1.60 2-stroke glow). With throttle management being the key IMO, the airframe has held up well for what now amounts to a little less than 270 flights, a little over 55 hours of flight time. The system weight of the FPE is 70 ounces (4.4 lbs), including stock muffler, spark plug, ignition system and associated wiring, ignition battery, and prop nut/washer. No engine mount is required with this engine.

With the FPE 3.2 and a 22x6-10 Top Flite (I've also used a 22x8 Pro Zinger and the Meczlik 21x10), the plane will hover at partial throttle, and pull out of the hover vertically with a fair amount of authority. As originally flown "bare", the plane weighed 16 lbs, 2 oz, but after wheel pants, axle covers, pilot, smoke system, etc, it is now at exactly 17 lbs dry. I've measured (not calculated) static thrust of the installed engine at between 24 and 25 lbs with the Top Flite prop.

If you use an engine system that is much heavier than what I've described, you will most likely end up adding even more weight, in the form of ballast at the tail. I'm flying at the recommended CG, which I recall is 6.5" behind the wing leading edge as measured at the side of the fuselage. I have both elevator servos and the rudder servo at the back end of the plane; receiver battery, receiver, and throttle servo are all essentially at the aft end of the canopy hatch area. Fuel and smoke tanks are on the CG, and the ignition battery is just forward of the main gear.

Be aware that with the plane equipped as described, the polar moment of inertia (in pitch) is a lot higher than it would have been with the recommended engine. Some tumbling maneuvers are probably therefore harder to start and stop.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. FWIW, I like the plane a bunch!

Gary L.

Geistware

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After 165 flights, I removed my Brison 2.4 and installed a Brison 3.2. No other changes except for that (same propeller) and found that this is the plane I wanted in the first place. It flies a lot better I will be moving the engine 3/8 inch closer to the firewall to made the CG as it was before.

WilsonFlyer

My Feedback: (13)

I apologize to the original poster. I just noticed that this is about the World Models PW. I don't know anything about this model. Looks like the post I made above re: the Brison 3.2 holds water based on succeeding posts but I cannot say so myself with any degree of authority. I was talking about the GP PW. The thread I referenced was about the GP PW too.

Again; I apologize if my post has mislead you in any way. It was not intentional.

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Hello AMA-69405,
Just read your post on this bird and have a few quest. I'm setting mine up with the same engine combo that you have!! How did you beef up the tail to accept the rudder servo in the back??? Anywhere I'v looked back there is all just balsa!! Also, did you have any probs getting the cowl to line up and straight?? When I mark off the holes as per the manual, the cowl on mine seems to set on there abit crooked!!! Also---did you have ground clearance probs with your 22 inch prop?? Thanks loads for your info!!! Hooker53

AMA-69405

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Hooker53,

I have a photo of the installation, but I'm having a problem imbedding the image in this post. In any case, it's essentially a piece of lite ply epoxied to a couple of rails that were installed across the fuselage. No problems after about 350 flights.

Due to the fact that the firewall has 3 degrees of right thrust, the front of the cowl is noticebly "crooked" by design. If the engine is mounted correctly, the engine shaft hole in the front of the cowl will end up pretty much on the centerline of the plane as viewed from above; but the spinner interface "flat" will NOT be perpendicular to same.

No problems with ground clearance... the only props I've broken were the result of stupid mistakes on my part that would most llikely have produced the same result with an 18" or 20 prop.

FWIW - I'm doing this from memory, but if I recall correctly, the following items that came with the kit were deemed inadequate and were replaced either during buildup or immediately thereafter, in order of importance:

Aileron and elevator pushrods - too small (use 4-40)
Main gear tires - worn out in a couple dozen flights
Tailwheel assembly - too small/flimsey
Ail/Elev/Rud hinges - very strong, but they are metal on metal and will eventually wear out the pins
Fuel Tank - too big (I average 0.7 oz per flying minute - I use a 12 oz tank)

Later,
Gary

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Gary, I really appreciate your help on this!!!! If it's easyer to just e-mail me the shot of your rudder servo, do so!!!! [email protected]. Also, if you have the means to do so a shot of the bird where you cut it out the cowl for the engine would be a real help. I just came from downstairs working with the transparent cowl that comes with it and I have just never been a cut happy builder esp on such a nice cowl. If I can get a shot of yours thats showing the engine poking thru and how you worked that slanted spark plug that would really help!!!!! I agree with you on some the hardware. I bought carbon tube and 4-40 plug-ins for all the servo arms. I will also use 1/4 scale ball clevises on all ends as well!! Thanks loads for your help. Hooker53

hosam

My Feedback: (121)

I have a Moki 2.1 on my WM Wagstaff. AT 14.25 pounds and with a 20x10 prop my 3D buddies can hover it around 1/2 to 5/8 throttle. plane flyes great with the engnie and as for gas consumption, I get 15 minutes of flight out of a 20 oz of 5% fuel. I love this plnae...

RustyTumbles

I have one with a G38 on it. It weighs in at 17Lbs dry and is a very good flying plane. It is by no means 3D capable with the G38 but it will fly pattern and basic IMAC well. It is a great tumbling plane and you can stop it halfway through a tumble by letting the sticks go. Then you can throw them in the opposite direction and she will tumble back the other way just as well. It is a great plane and is my first gasser.

AMA-69405

My Feedback: (22)

Hooker53,

No problem, I'll take the cowl picture today.

BTW, I should have mentioned one other modification that I (and many other builders) made to the kit. I epoxied the horizontal stab halves to the fuse. Transportation with the stabs in place was not an issue in my case, so they were installed permanently.

Gary

AMA-69405

My Feedback: (22)

Hooker53,

Here are some engine cowling pics, should give you an idea of where to start cutting. A couple of "please-note's":

- 2 extra screws at the bottom of the cowling to keep that portion of it from flapping in the breeze. Also, I epoxied short pieces of 1/4" wooden dowel into the fuselage at the 6 stock screw locations.

- The extra long slot behind the muffler facilitates cowling installation and removal. To remove the cowling, it must be slid forward and tilted down to port. A little tricky, but not a complete Chinese Puzzle. BTW, obviously the plug wire must also be removed.

- Choke control can be seen on the outside of the cowling in the head-on shot. Outer end of the rod is threaded, onto which a short piece of nyrod is screwed, after cowl installation. Pull out to choke, pop back in to run.

Speaking of running, I strongly recommend you stick with the manufacturer's suggestion on oil for the FPE 52... Bel-Ray MC1. Use of other oils (Stihl chainsaw oil, for instance) can result in a broken crankshaft after prolonged use (about 250 flights or so). Don't ask me how I know all this neat info, but I can give you the failure mode... the top of the piston becomes carboned up and eventually begins hitting the squish area of the combustion chamber. []

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Gary sure want to thank you for posting the photos. they will be a big help. I see you did the trap door trick on the rudder servo. I was thinking about putting mine on the side but I think I like your way better. It looks from the photo that you cut into it right behind where the fus goes from sticks to solid. I agree on the epoxy on the stabs. Just don't think the screw is enough. I also don't know what size screws you used for the engine. Mine from the factory is good for 10-32. I know the tensile on these are high but they just look small!!!! Ha. Ha. Gary will post a photo of what I come up with after it's done!!!! Thanks again for all your help!!!! Roy

FBaity

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For those of you that fly thid aircraft, do you think it would perform well with the new YS 160?

torqmeister

No.

AMA-69405

My Feedback: (22)

Hooker,

You've got the idea on the rudder servo trap door... it really doesn't take long to set it up as shown. I used the stock pull-pull hardware on the rudder (possibly in the running for the world's shortest pull-pull setup!), and it has worked perfectly fine with only occasional re-tensioning.

As for engine mount bolts, I did not use the kit hardware. I believe they are 6 mm allen head bolts; I may have had to drill out the engine backplate holes to use these, can't remember. I also have a strip of aluminum stock (maybe .200" thick?) running across the top two bolt hole locations to reinforce the firewall in that area. 10 mm hex nuts on the top two bolts, captive nuts in the lower two.

Later,
Gary