Fear2722

My Feedback: (20)

Who's tired of talkin about this bird? Just kiddin...

Just got mine yesterday, this is my 2nd ARF ever... I used to call these types of planes BARFS... but barf no longer I'm impressed...

I guess it doesn't talk a whole lot to impress a college kid anyway.. haha

I chose the Fuji BT-64EI, mainly impulsive, but figured I'd give them a try. The plane specs on GP's website say that it is capable to use a gas engine as large as the 3.8 or 65cc motors. Well, this Fuji is spec'd at 63.7 or whatever. In the instruction book for the engine, not to mount it to a firewall less than a 1/2". The Extra's firewall is 1/4". After the money I've spent on this bird and it isn't even flyin yet, I don't want to let the structural integrity down, considering I had to pick the biggest engine possible (recommended) to fly it. The booklet (plane) also says to hardmount the engine to the firewall (for gas). Since this IS a single cylinder, and it's gas... and the whole plane is big... I don't wan't vibration to be another problem.

So... What's a good way to work with the firewall? Take another 1/4" piece and glass/epoxy it to the current firewall? Sell the engine for the more common and better appreciated (I guess) 50cc motors?

The engine seems light, looks neat too... I miss my 3w60i however. And I don't like the stock muffler so I already have plans to get a pitts on there... but in the meantime... Help please?


My next question regards the Rudder. I'd like to keep things as stock as possible, becuase I don't want to re-invent the wheel on an already tried and true design. But I have seen a few reviews online where the Author uses a pull pull setup with one servo inside the fuselage for the rudder. I guess he/she did not have a big motor up there to require the weight in the tail... but would that be a better, overall modification for the plane? If so, please give instructions. BTW, I intend to use the Hitec Digital 5625 Servos all the way around, with a JR 8103PCM and 9ch rx, with 2x 2000mAh nimh packs on rx and 1650mAh on ignition with manual/servo operated kill switches.

And lastly... the plug in tail feathers are awesome... almost too fragile looking. I read another post where a user had problems with the balsa fatiguing and I guess having to replace some wood in the tail. For me, at this time, it would be better for me to leave it like it is, plug in (transportation) but what are some ways I can beef it up to prevent any future problems in that area?


Thanks for your time!!!

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I would recommend that pin the firewall all the way around. I would say 3 to 4 on a side.
As far as the tail feathers, glue them on!

NeoGenesis

My Feedback: (27)

You gonna need the tail weight.....Leave the servo's in the tail. As stated in the previous post, pin the firewall and just be careful with the tail feathers. Make preflight before every flight part of your routine. Mine is just coming up on 2 1/2 years old, and I've had no fatigue problems in the tail, but I don't remove mine.





Neo

kevod

My Feedback: (7)

Fear,

I have this plane with a 69cc (4.2ci) First Place Engines motor on it - it is on the heavy side, but great performance!
The instructions have you pin the firewall with 1/8" dowels (if I remember right they were 1/8") - I have just about 100 flights and 8 gallons of gas through the motor and have not had any problems with the fire breaking/loosening up at all.

I do have a lot of extra weight in the tail along with the elevator/rudder servos there to balance the plane.

Make sure that you glue the tail section in really good.
I made a small access hatch on the bottom of the plane so that I could put the extra weight for balance on the inside of the plane.
I bumped the horiz. stab rolling the plane to my house and it broke the glue joint loose.
I redid the glue joint on the outside, but I also added glue inside the fuse through the access hatch and have not had any problems since.

This plane is built like a tank - I can not tell you how many rough landings it took for me to figure out how to gently land this bird (this is all my fault due to having a 5.5lb motor on the plane - it just needs more speed on landing), and it is still a great flying machine.

-- Kevod

davidmor

I just want to confirm what the others are saying. Pin the firewall as shown in the instructions and put the servos in the tail with that engine. Even then, you will probably need to add some tail weight because of the weight of your engine. I would glue the tail on also. Mine had some play in it right out of the box so I epoxied it together. It is very strong now. Enjoy your plane. It is a fantastic flyer and like someone else said it is very tough. Be prepeared for a fast landing with that engine though! I have a Brison 3.2 on mine and my first flight I had the CG a little nose heavy. Not much, maybe 1/4" but it made for a very fast landing where I ran out of runway on a 600' field. I touched down about 1/3 of the way in and ended up in the field at the end of the runway. I moved the CG back 1/2" to get it a tad tail heavy (how I like my planes) and now it lands much slower and with plenty of runway to spare.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

About the Fuji instruction to use no less than 1/2" firewall, I think that is just CYA precaution on their part. However, the Patty calls for 7" between the firewall and the prob hub, so you are going to need a spacer anyway. My Fuji 64SB converted to CH Ignition has a mounting surface to prob hub distance of about 6.4", and your EI version should be similar. I think it's too close to use standoffs, so a block of 1/2" plywood should do the trick. Just be sure to hollow out the block as much as possible to save weight.

I don't think I will use the Fuji 64 on my own Patty. It is just a little too much engine for my style of flying. Still, with electronic ignition, the 64 is only about 1/2 lbs heavier than the Fuji 50 and costs only $20 more, so it makes sense if you want a lot of power.

I would not use any rubber mounts. They typically cause more problem than they solve. Most vibration isolation mounts commercially available just let the engine whip around at idle and don't do a darn thing to isolate the higher frequency vibration at higher RPMs, which is principally responsible for causing havoc to on-board electronics and glue joints. Solidly mount the engine and just let the airframe and the airflow around it dampen the vibration in flight. Limit higher RPM engine run time on the ground when mounted in the airplane is the best way to minimize potential damage to the airframe.