Pull-Pull set-up pics
#2
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From: N. Charleston,
SC
Perhaps you need to remove the coating before you crimp. Or maybe use fishing leader crimps. They have coated leader wire also and I've never seen one of those fail. Just a thought.
Merv
Merv
#4
I use Kevlar that has no coating. After I crimp a drop of CA keeps things in plce for sure. Make sure the CA dosen't saturate a section of the Kevlar that needs to flex. Put a peice of heat shrink where it exits the fuse and call it done.
Shawn Berkheimer
R/C Blimp Productions.com
Shawn Berkheimer
R/C Blimp Productions.com
#5
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
Eddie, nice rig. Can't go wrong with SWB. I agree with Shawn B. Although my cable is coated, I find that after the line is crimped all it takes is a drop of CA to lock it.
krayzc-RCU, interesting setup. Does the geometry of that set up offer more leverage than an inline rig? Thanks, Joe
krayzc-RCU, interesting setup. Does the geometry of that set up offer more leverage than an inline rig? Thanks, Joe
#6
I second that. I've even had the slippage problem on much smaller-scale planes, where you wouldn't think there was enough forces to cause it. CA alway took care of it. Nice setup by the way!!
#7
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cumn thru
this set up is a quick deal to not running into matching or binding issues. i can get enough throw for the needs. i am not sure what the max is i only do 40 degrees on all planes surfaces for 3d this bird has such a huge rudder and side fuse that is doesn't ever take much to do even a knife edge loop with this deal. a big bird always does makes things easier IMHO.....
this set up is a quick deal to not running into matching or binding issues. i can get enough throw for the needs. i am not sure what the max is i only do 40 degrees on all planes surfaces for 3d this bird has such a huge rudder and side fuse that is doesn't ever take much to do even a knife edge loop with this deal. a big bird always does makes things easier IMHO.....
#10
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From: Timmonsville,
SC
Thanks for all the help, I will try the ca and if that dont work I will get a new cable and run it thru twice. I realy like the SWB ...
#12
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
The control horns mount like any other to the servo output shaft. The nice feature with SWB is they now offer a 'duel lock' feature. The arm screws down like any other, but these have a split center with two additional bolts that go through and pinch the servo output shaft. Also the holes for linkage are pre threaded for 4/40 applications.
If your question pertains to the above rigs, the servo tray comes with cut outs for mounting more than one servo. It also comes with an attached bell crank to keep the tension of the cable, under load, off the servo itself. Offered with a straight arm for parallel runs or an offset arm for crossed cable configuration. The servo arms ar ganged together with short linkage and connected to the bell crank.
Here is a pic of a single servo, JR 8411 on a 10 lb. 2 meter plane. Didn't think it would need a tray and bell crank, but it would help extend the life of the servo. I used an offset arm for a crossed wire set up and a straight arm through the rudder. Joe
If your question pertains to the above rigs, the servo tray comes with cut outs for mounting more than one servo. It also comes with an attached bell crank to keep the tension of the cable, under load, off the servo itself. Offered with a straight arm for parallel runs or an offset arm for crossed cable configuration. The servo arms ar ganged together with short linkage and connected to the bell crank.
Here is a pic of a single servo, JR 8411 on a 10 lb. 2 meter plane. Didn't think it would need a tray and bell crank, but it would help extend the life of the servo. I used an offset arm for a crossed wire set up and a straight arm through the rudder. Joe



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