freebird1

I have a super tigre 2300. I have done everything I can think of to get the 2300 not to load up and die. I was flying a edge 1/4 scale today and had another dead stick. This time it almost cost me my bird. I hate to go with another engine because it is a perfect weight and power for the edge. It has to be a carb problem. I did the mods that racerobob suggest. it help but still she loads up. HELP!!!! Has anyone cured this pooblem if so please let me know what the magic answer is. I will even go wiht a nother carb if I know for sure it will cure it.

Thanks

Bob Laine

My Feedback: (91)

freebird` Don't use more than 5% nitro fuel. Most supertigers don't like nitro.

eagledancer

i agree, i use 0% in my 3000's

freebird1

Thank you for your reply. I tried 5% and it realy made no change. I was running 10% wildcat today. It seems to me it is in the low or mid range of the carb. The engine has plenty of power and I only had to add 1/2 oz to the tail to get the edge to CG on the money. I have done all the mods I have read and I can see no other way except useing another carb. I really hate to do that, but I have read where others are haveing this same problem. I will try anything no matter how crazy it seems.

freebird1

eagledancer, are your engine super tigers. If you think it will cure the problem I will be more than happy to get some FAI.

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

Tigers usually need to be fully broken in to run their best at lower throttle settings. so make sure its broken in. then you should be able to tune the carb to run well at low throttle settings.

This assumes you have the fuel tank at the corect height compared to the engine, of course. The tank centerline should be even or slightly above the carb centerline.

Are you using the original equipment muffler? to get consistent fuel feed there should be about the same back pressure from the muffler as the original equipment muffler gives.

another possibility is the engine is overheating - this can occur if there is not enough exit area for the cooling air behind the engine.

what prop are you using? what rpm does it turn at full throttle? what idle rpm are you getting?
have you tried the pinch test to check the idle setting?

ed

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The larger SuperTigres have been long known to suffer carb issues. Several of the "fixes" have been previously posted in low notro fules, good tank placement, and a complete break in.

Another option, if piston clearance permits, is the use of a good 4 stroke glow plug. In many cases, even those items previously noted were not enough to obtain reliability. Either changing carbs or adding regulators to the fuel system has been a consistant solution.

pamvic

My Feedback: (1)

From the replies you are receiving it appears most are confusing the larger and older SuperTigres with the 2300. The 2300 is a completely different motor and will require high nitro content for it to perform satisactorily. Some use 25% nitro. The older SuperTigres,2000-2500-3000- and the Italian 3250 are all slow rev.motors with good torque and will swing larger props. The instructions say to run on 12% Castor Oil and 88% methanol. Any amount of nitro does not make any difference in performance. Synthetic oil at 12-15% can be used but castor is preferred.Any more oil and the motors tend to bog down.The 2300 is a different beast altogether.

freebird1

Thanks for the replys. I am running an APC 17x8. I am running 80% syn and 20% caster 10% nitro. I am not haveing any type of feed problem. I keep a close check on the temp with a gage. I have more than enough venting. Had around 2 gal of fuel thru her. I have had several st engine, with no problems. I see that there is a perry carb for the st 2300. has anyone tried one?

Thanks again

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The Perry carb has been one of the long standing fixes for the 2300. And yes, I'm well aware of the differencs in the SuperTigre line of engines. Most of them have had long standing fuel delivery issues ranging from too little to too much. Added to those are reliable idle and mixture irregularity. The carb and/or regulator has been the fix the majority of the time. The large Mokie and the OS BGX 3500 sometimes experience the same issues.

BTW, at 2 gallons you may not yet be fully broken in.

RevGQ

I have several 2300's now. I run 15% fuel and OS or Fox Miracle plugs. After sufficient break-in, my engines have ran excellent. I did turn the spray bar for better mid-range response. One did however develop a leak I believe in the carb throat housing. I replaced that original carb with a Perry, and the results were remarkable. I suggest you rotate the spray bar 10 deg.; run a good two gal of fuel through the engine (use 10-15% nitro); and if the stock carb is not transitioning well enough, go with the Perry carb. It took me a little time with the instruction of a fellow modeller to learn these engines, but it has been well worth the effort. You will find that this 1.4 power plant lends itself to a wide variety of applications. I use it where ever a 1.00 - 1.60 is called for.

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

I've been using a Super Tigre 2300 with perry carb and pump in my Hanger 9 Super Cub for a year now with great results. Very reliable and lots of power. You still need to go with the large clunk and fuel tubing for best results. I'm running an APC 16 X 8 on 15% all synthetic 4 stroke fuel and have an idle bar glow plug. This motor is a stump puller. Its the China made also.

pe reivers

I have cured many supertigres. The original carb can easily be modified with a Dremel and grinding disk. I have documented all [link=http://home.wanadoo.nl/pereivers/home.html]on my home page[/link]

freebird1

Thank for the info. I did rotate the spray bar and did get it to run better at low and mid range, but after a few mins in the air, she loads up again. I use thunderbolt idle bar plugs, and have the DuBro large clunk in the tank. One note, I am very high up, but it has never effected my other engines. I think I am going to order the perry non pump carb. This engine has already cost me a stick and almost cost me my edge. I think it is time for me to stop tinkering with the stock carb and spend the $35 for the perry carb. It will be a shame to loss a $1200 bird over a carb issue, and from what I have read the perry carb seems to me the less $ sure fix for my problem.

ICE_MAN

hmm Mine runs great.. But it's got about 14 gallons of fuel through it. If I remember correctly I had the same problems untill I had about 3 gallons through the motor. I run a bisson pitts muffler (both stacks open), the stock carb. and a check valve on the muffler to keep the tanks pressurized.. She turns 9,000-9,200 on a Mezlic 18X6... I normally keep it at about 8,900.

On another note, I'm cutting the tips off the muffler. I know this will kill most of the back pressure, but I'm hoping the little bit of pressure that will go in there will be kept and multiplied by the check valve. This will hopefully give me 2-300 RPM gain. Or it could make me buy a new muffler

freebird1

I have talked to the guys at Morris Hobbies about shorting the stacks on a mokien 180 and bission pitts. They agreed that it will added to the RPM and some of the stack is useless unless you need it to clear the fire wall. However I never tried it. A friend said he needed my 180 engine bad. That was six month ago. He is just now covering the bird and has the engine he needed so bad.[]. I ordered the perry carb today. 3 gal of fuel seems to me alot of break in to me. I love my st engines, and they are by far the best engine for the $. I think ST needs to give the carb on the 2300 a good make over. Hopefully the perry and another 1/2 gal of fuel will do it. preivers, I read your post a few months ago when I first decided to give the 2300 another go. I did most of the mods like making sure that all of the carb spec matched at the top and bottom. I moded the barrel grove. polished the needles. I set the cat eye in every way possible, so on and so on, but still she loads up. It is one of those items you just want to take a stick and bet the H*LL out of. I am going to try the perry carb and some more fuel. If not, look on ebay for a chance to win this one.

Thanks

zx32tt

My Feedback: (9)

Mine runs great on 5% nitro. I use a O.S. "F" plug, and a Perry pump. Mine is the Chinese version with the latest carb. It never misses a beat, gobs of power and so far has been very reliable.
Z

captinjohn

I do not understand how your ST 2300 can load up in the air. I never had any engine do that. What you doing...idle in a dive or what? I think mayby someone can help more if you describe ALL the details in what your doing with this engine. If you got a bad carb....get rid of it. Buy a new carb for a china made tiger or whatever. Get someone to help you and run the engine in all positions on the ground. Check for every thing that could make it run rich or lean. Do this before you fly...and you wont crash. Good luck Capt,n

rmh

The never ending story ---
The 2300 is a terrific engine -
the various carbs used have been excellent to absolutely the worst things ever stuckonthe engine
We started with original design -engine carb and single outlet muffler -
on 16x8props - absolutely kitty cats to operate and excellent power
the factory (and this is from the Hobbico people) supplied the next changes to the engine - dog leg slot carb barrel and two dia bore setups -which, in my opinion, wrecked the original performance and ruined the reputation of the otherwise fine engine
We redid the rotating barrel -and the carb body bore to original configurations on a few of these- and the problems went away - THIS info and some close up pics ,we passed on to various friends and it was published on various web pages -As far as I know it worked for others also

The engine as is presently done -is apparantly the best --and is closest to original
The original carb needed about 1/3 lb muffler pressure to CORRECTLY operate at idle -mid and high speed
WHY?
because th metering is correct at low rpm but full power needed to be enrichened
The muffler pressure only happens at full power- and does the job - it is a closed loop setup simple and effective.
as soon as some other NON pressure exhaust setup is used (typically an aftermarket Pitts type ) the pressure at full throttle is inadequate.
We used a small tuned can operating at 1/2 to 3/4 PSI at full throttle -typical rpm 8500 9000 on 18x8 and over 9000 on APC 18x8 absolutely linear throtle from idle on up
fuel 25% nitro 20% syn oil plug OS F
The pressure we measured with low pressure guages left over from out earlier days designing pneumatic control circuits.
we also watched others use pressure regs -different carbs - and they all worked some quite well but the best performance - original carb and adequate tank pressure.
A smaller carb was easiest fix -but power always suffered.

mikeboyd

I have had about 5 of these engines, mostly mounted inverted and sideways. I have only had success with a hot Idle Bar plug, such as the fox standard plug. I have had no success with the four stroke plug. With the 4S plug, I had similar problems to yours.

If you are using a standard muffler or a bisson pitts muffler with one exhaust tube blocked off, you should be able to have a decent running engine. The thread for ST's has all the correct things to do and have worked fine for me with the new Chinese made 2300.

In San Antonio, at about 800' Above Seal Level, I have found that the fuel inlet nipple turned down toward the rear engine mounting bolt sets the mid range, once I get the top end set, then keep adjusting the low end, until you just get it too lean to run or start, then back it out about 1/16 of a turn. You will need to keep adjusting the top end also as you do this. I have found that the engine likes being a little rich on the top end and as lean as it will go on the low end. Once you get it set, it just starts and runs without much fussing. They just require allot of breaking and adjusting. Like I said, I have had five of these, they all took between 2-3 gallons to get them run in and sort of broken in and set up. I have used both PowerMaster 5% and Byron's 10% fuels without any problems. All of mine ran very strong on an APC 17X6 prop. I know they recommend 18X8's, but since it gets so hot here in south Texas, the 17X6 doesn't load the engine up so much and lets it spin up quicker.

I do highly recommend that you blue locktite the carberator slot retaining screw in firmly. I have had trouble with these backing out and causing problems with throttle control.

Hope this helps,
Mike Boyd

freebird1

What I am doing to the engine carb. If you would read the post on preivers home page your question would be what have I not done to the carb. The two guys that help me from time to time have close to 70 years in the hobby. The mods where done to the 1000 of an inch. Like I stated before I love my smaller ST engines. But have to replace the carb and run 3 to 5 gal of fuel to have a big tigre, not me. That is an extra $100. Now you are running about $250 for the engine. I have 18 other plane ranging from 1/4 to 40 size and have no problem with tunning at my high ALT. It is simple, the engine has a Carb issue and you can sell, replace, or tinker with it. I personally am tired of tinkering with the carb. If the stock carbs are so good I have one for sell. Polished and matched to the 1000 of an inch.

pe reivers

freebird,
You must have missed the part, where at half throttle, you adjust the idle needle to check if the drum groove needs extra adjustments, and how much adjusting is needed. If you do that, and correct the drum groove angle accordingly, the 2300 engine (and any other ST engine) will run all day at half throttle without loading up.

Ricmussman

My Feedback: (24)

I have had two of these engines and I went to the Perry carb and pressure pump. Once I did this they were great engines. I still have one if I ever decide to go back to glow fuels.... I say spend the cash and make it right before you hurt the plane. I also ran Wildcat 2/4 cycle fuel at 15% nitro.

freebird1

preivers

Did that, and did not have to do much to get it right. Mine was the first ones with a straingt grove. Runs fine on the bench, then loads up in the air. To lean or rich is what you are thinking. I adjust the engine and keep a close watch on the temp with a gage. Next flight dies at about 40' at the end of our runway. Lucky I got her back to the runway. The point I am trying to make is when you have to worry about your engine stoping in flight, It takes the fun and enjoyment of the hobby. I have seen the 3250 and 4500 big tigres run super all day. The 2300 is the only one I have seen with this problem. ST needs to re-do the carb. It is a super engine when it is running.

pe reivers

The carbs I modified for .45 up to 2.15 engines either had the straight groove or the dogleg groove. All had to be changed to the reverse dogleg shape. Mods also concern the fuel jet bar and fuel passages. If all is done right, idle and high end can be set slightly rich without the engine loading up in any throtle setting.
A lean idle setting will surely cause a flame-out; so does a wrong plug and stale fuel.
Fuel at 5% nitro and 18% oil. Plug is OS-F. Spray bar pointing straight down. (fuel nipple points to middle of engine bearer flange)
If you still have problems, is is somewhere else, and not in the carb.