mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Are any of you guys using these for your linkages? I was poking around Tower's site and found these-[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY750&P=7[/link]


Edit- they're available in a few different sizes with 4-40 ends. Also metric.

stomper

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I use them on all my planes. >

bubbagates

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I use them anywhere I can. Nice and light and very strong.

mrbigg

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I was thinking of trying them out. Simpler than carbon rods with titanium ends.

bubbagates

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I'm not sure about anyone elses but I like the Hangar9 versions. One end is right hand thread and nthe other is left hand thread. It makes for really easy adjustment once they are installed with a small wrench or the little tool you can buy.

I even went so far as to find a 4-40 tap with left hand threads to re-thread some of the ball-links/clevises. You can screw on right hand threads onto the left and the turnbuckle will rethread it for you but it's a real PIA and very tight when you try to adjust them

In my opinion, titanium is the way to go. CF rods are fine also if you do not mind waiting for the JB Weld or epoxy top dry

Geistware

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Looks a little pricy

DeadAccount237939

where these things really shine is when creating linkages for ganged servos, as was illustrated above. the ability to make very small changes in length of the arms makes alignment of digital servos much easier. yeah, they ain't cheap, but not to many things in this hobby are....and in the event of a crash, the arms will likely survive. the h9 arms have a neat little tool that is sold separately.

P

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Those in the link are the same way. I tried Horizons site this morning but couldn't get there. It said "page unavailable." I wonder if the Hangar 9's are cheaper.
I wonder if them ones at Tower are made in the USA. I don't mind paying a little extra for that.

bubbagates

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Heres a link to the H9 stuff

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Stores/P...anium&CatId=AP

mrbigg

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They look a little cheaper in price. Before I buy, I probaly should mock up the linkages using some cheap 4-40 threaded rod to get the sizes I need.

stomper

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This should help out with sizeing the pro links. >

http://troybuiltmodels.com/GHardwareLinkages.htm


HTH

Geistware

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While I have not used the H9 Linkage I have helped adjust a plane with them on there. IT does make adjustment easier. H9 are more economical than the Tower brand as well.

mrbigg

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That will save some time for sure. I'm going with heavy duty ball links, so that chart definitely helps.

jimmyr1

TURN BUCKELS ARE THE WAY TO GO, THEY EASYLY ADJUST TO MATCH DIGITAL SERVOS. TOWER SELLS SEVERAL MAKES. ONE IS BY DU BRO # 2156 TOWER # LXD952 $ 3.59 FOR TWO LINKS 2 5/8 " LONG 4-40. TOWER ALSO SELL THE TRAXX'S LINKS, BUT THEY ARE MOSTLY METRIC...

JIMMYR1

flyierjon

Even thou Stomper already suggested, Troy Built models has the same thing as tower but troys are a bit cheaper! if any one cares about price... i just bought some from troy and they work great!!!!!!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

For the same referenced size turn buckles originally noted in this thread, Troy Built is $4:00 per pair cheaper. Considering that you may be using as many as 1-1/2 pair per wing, then adding elevator sets, that $4.00 can add up to a dinner out with the wife pretty quick. It usually pays tocomparison shop.

mrbigg

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I noticed that too. I need 7 sets. That's 28 bucks or 28 double cheeseburgers at McDonald's.

dork_blaster

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I noticed the price diff too, BUT they are available in a butt load of different sizes (many more than the H9 Prolinks). The Lunsford's go down to 1", Prolinks smallest is 1.5" for example. This would come in handy for those instances where a "standard" Prolink won't fit.

budgetdude

My Feedback: (6)

1 note here. Those lunsfords were designed for the car market. If I remember correctly the htreads are slightly oversized and to make the link bigger and tuffer. They even came with grease to make them easier to thread. 9 times out of 10 you would pop your ball link off while adjusting. They do have a ton more sizes and your LHS should have a plano case full of individuals. The H9's are true 440's and work well with the rocket city prethreaded ball links.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

You just take a small drill bit and run it down in your ball links before you thread the Tower rods in. That will loosen the ball links up just enough. Still tighter than a frogs *****, but it does help to loosen them up a bit. The rods will cut their own threads in the plastic ball links.

Never had one fail doing it this way.

I started buying the Tower rods for the exact reason mentioned above. They come in so many different lengths. I order so much stuff from Tower anyway--I get the free shipping deal all the time. A couple extra bucks for the exact length rod I need ain't gonna kil me. Lots of times, if my order is a few bucks short of the free shipping deal--I'll just order a set of these to make up the amount.

Kaoma

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Does anybody know where I can find one of those Titanium turnbuckles that is 6 in long?. So far the longest ones are 5 in and too short for my needs. Please help if you know of a source.

Thanks

dc

wheels

One of the reasons I bought a wheelchair made out of titainiumwas that while being strong and light titainium flexes easily and because of that a titainium chair rides more comfortably than aluminm. Flexing, a great property for a chair, not so great for control linkages.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Wheels, I think you are confused about the properties of Titanium...
There are a lot of uses for Titanium and depending on the alloy and design criteria, you might see flexing, but steel will do that as well. Basically Titanium is as strong as steel but about half the weight, and it's a bunch stronger than Aluminum but only slightly heavier.

Kaoma, I've used a number of the Titanium control rods or "turnbuckles" as they are being referred to in some places and I've never run across one that's longer than 5". If you need a tough rod that's longer, you might want to consider buying a Rod Chuck and making your own control rods out of welding rod?

wheels

I'm not trying to spread disinformation so if I'm wrong I apologise, perhaps the extra flex in my chair is because the extra strength of titainium allows the use of thinner walled tubing? I can testify for certain though that a titainium chair has way more "flex" without actual bending of the metal than an aluminum alloy chair.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I have never seen any titainium rod over 5 inches. You will most likely need to go with a carbon fiber rod setup. Central hobbies and a complete kit for a nice price that ends up being very light.

You can also make your own but they can get heavy. Get some hollow CF rod and some 4-40 all-thread rod and a couple of 4-40 locknuts. Cut the 4-40 rod to the correct length you need, cut the CF tube 2 inches shorter than the all-thread, slide it over the all-thread and center it. Take the 4-40 locknuts and snug them against the CF tube. You now have a custom elngth control rod that is really string, will resist flexing but be somewhat heavy. You can use regular nuts instead of locknuts to save a bit of weight, but be sure to use locktite.