50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
10-21-2007, 12:33 PM
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50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Hello all,
I have reversed engineered my beloved Airwild Edge 540 50CC that I dorked this summer. I pretty much copied, and recreated in CAD, the fuse and formers exactly but removed about 3 or 4 ounces of unneeded wood and used built up turtle decks instead of foam, used the wings as inspiration but changed a few things around and did a bit of redesign on the tailfeathers (most notable adding counterbalances to the elevator. The most noticeable difference is that I changed it to a 540 from the two seater 540T that Airwild sells. I think I am going to be even lighter in the end compared to the already crazy light 14.5lbs the Airwild came in at (with a DA50!).
Anyhow, Greg from charlotteaircraftmodeling.com laser cut all the parts and I got them a couple weeks ago and have been taking pics as I go along. Greg has been considering offering this as a kit (you may be surprised at the price! Esp. relative to what you pay for the ARF) to anyone interested and I will provide the plans for free in a pdf file you can get printed out at Kinkos. Don't bother asking for the plans unless you get the laser kit to go along because there are no parts templates on them.
This is a build thread for those interested and I'll update things as I go along.
John
I have reversed engineered my beloved Airwild Edge 540 50CC that I dorked this summer. I pretty much copied, and recreated in CAD, the fuse and formers exactly but removed about 3 or 4 ounces of unneeded wood and used built up turtle decks instead of foam, used the wings as inspiration but changed a few things around and did a bit of redesign on the tailfeathers (most notable adding counterbalances to the elevator. The most noticeable difference is that I changed it to a 540 from the two seater 540T that Airwild sells. I think I am going to be even lighter in the end compared to the already crazy light 14.5lbs the Airwild came in at (with a DA50!).
Anyhow, Greg from charlotteaircraftmodeling.com laser cut all the parts and I got them a couple weeks ago and have been taking pics as I go along. Greg has been considering offering this as a kit (you may be surprised at the price! Esp. relative to what you pay for the ARF) to anyone interested and I will provide the plans for free in a pdf file you can get printed out at Kinkos. Don't bother asking for the plans unless you get the laser kit to go along because there are no parts templates on them.
This is a build thread for those interested and I'll update things as I go along.
John
10-21-2007, 12:34 PM
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RE: Edge 540 Scratch Build
First up is the fuse.
I have joined the forward (part FSLR) and aft fuse (part FSFR) sides and laid down two 5/16" balsa sticks along the length of it as shown. I did this for both fuse sides ensuring that I made a LEFT AND A RIGHT side. Not shown is a shot detailing all the doublers (FSA through FSF). While you can glue them later, it is a lot easier to do it now. I'll try and add a shot of their locations later.
Yes I know, my workshop is a disaster...
More to come.
I have joined the forward (part FSLR) and aft fuse (part FSFR) sides and laid down two 5/16" balsa sticks along the length of it as shown. I did this for both fuse sides ensuring that I made a LEFT AND A RIGHT side. Not shown is a shot detailing all the doublers (FSA through FSF). While you can glue them later, it is a lot easier to do it now. I'll try and add a shot of their locations later.
Yes I know, my workshop is a disaster...
More to come.
10-21-2007, 12:48 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
WOW
That looks very interesting!
What you going to do about cowl and canopy??
I dont suppose theres any chance of getting a coy of the plans is there?
Mark
That looks very interesting!
What you going to do about cowl and canopy??
I dont suppose theres any chance of getting a coy of the plans is there?
Mark
10-21-2007, 01:42 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
When the two sides have dried, stand just one side up as shown in the first picture and pin it on top of the plans. Then starting with F2, insert into the notches on the fuse side and glue in the formers all the way back to F8. Make sure to align the formers with the plans.
Mark, as I said in the first post, there is no point in asking for the plans unless you get the kit cut for you as there are no parts templates printed on them. I do have a dxf for the templates but not sure whether I'll release those at this point.
I will probably make a plug for both the cowl and canopy but will need to find someone who would be able to produce enough of them. Greg said he knows somebody local to him so that might be the ticket.
J
Mark, as I said in the first post, there is no point in asking for the plans unless you get the kit cut for you as there are no parts templates printed on them. I do have a dxf for the templates but not sure whether I'll release those at this point.
I will probably make a plug for both the cowl and canopy but will need to find someone who would be able to produce enough of them. Greg said he knows somebody local to him so that might be the ticket.
J
10-21-2007, 01:53 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Next glue FZ2SL and FZ2SR into the notches between F2 and F3 (first picture). Then, glue FZ2 (this is the tank tray) on top of FZ2SL and FZ2SR into the notches.
10-21-2007, 02:00 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Next comes one of the trickier parts of the fuse build and given my limited brain capacity, took a while to figure out. The motor box is installed by first sliding in MBL and MBL and gluing into place where they contact F2 (don't glue the parts together forward of F2 because we need to glue in the firewall later)shown in the first pic. <---- oops, two different parts labeled the same! Still in the first picture you see my hand next to the right side of the motor box holding up MBR. You need to insert MBR as shown and then slide it over as shown in the second picture. Glue MBR.
I made a gaff when doing the cad work and had to shave a bit off of MBR and MBL (the motor box's sides) to allow everything to fit properly. You can make out in the pictures about 1/16" deep x .25" length off the corner of each was shaved off.
I made a gaff when doing the cad work and had to shave a bit off of MBR and MBL (the motor box's sides) to allow everything to fit properly. You can make out in the pictures about 1/16" deep x .25" length off the corner of each was shaved off.
10-21-2007, 02:13 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Ok, let's glue FWA, FWB, FWC together to make a 1/4" thick firewall. Glue the 1/16" pieces on either side of the 1/8" piece. Slide F1 into place now and glue. When the FW is dry, glue into place on the fwd section of the motor box as shown and glue MBL, MBL and MBR simultaneously to eachother (note the orientation of the firewall in the picture as it is not symmetrical!). You can see some glue has seeped out the sides. Clean all this up because we will add 1/4" hardwood tri-stock to reinforce the area after the firewall has dried in place. Glue MB as shown in the third picture. When dry, add the tristock to the fwd part of the FW.
You may have noticed the holes in the FW. These are pre-drilled for a DA50 or DL50.
You may have noticed the holes in the FW. These are pre-drilled for a DA50 or DL50.
10-21-2007, 02:31 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
At this point, turn the fuse on its side and pin it flat to the building board. Take the other side of the fuse and glue it on top to the formers and let dry (I used med. CA).
10-21-2007, 02:35 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Take the RTA/B that you glued together previously and glue into place on top of the 5/16" balsa sticks on the inside of the fuse and to F4.
10-21-2007, 02:41 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Glue the four 1/16" play GP parts together. Glue GPR and GPL in place between F1 and F2. When GP is dry, glue in place on the fuse and GPR/L. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill through the holes in F1 and F2 into GP and then use toothpicks with glue or screws to pin in place.
10-21-2007, 02:52 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
I forgot to take a snapshot of them but you will notice 5/16" notches in the formers. Glue 5/16" balsa stringers in place. The upper stringer starts at F1 and terminates at F7 (not F8). The stringer below that starts at F2 and terminates at F8. Glue in a third 3/16" stringer between F1 and F2. Well I did get a picture or two after all...
10-21-2007, 02:57 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Glue LGPU to LGPB. Note, the wider ends should be flush with eachother. While waiting for those to dry, glue some extra 3/16" leftover balsa stock to the stringers to support LGPU/B when glued onto the fuse.
10-21-2007, 03:17 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Now we add the rear turtle deck formers.
Lay down and tape in place to the fuse, the large canopy floor as shown. Mark where the floor terminates on each of the stringers so you know where to glue RTD1.
Glue RTD1 in place at an angle of 109 degrees. Laying the fuse overtop the 1/2 scale side view and lining up RTD1 as shown on the plans makes things easier.
From the forward face of F5 measure 1.9 cm forward along the stringers and mark it on each stringer. Glue RTD2 on top of where you marked by aligning the marks you made previously to the aft face of RTD2.
From the forward face of F6, measure 7.2 cm forward along the stringers and mark it on each stringer. Glue RTD3 on top of where you marked by aligning the marks you made previously to the aft face of RTD3.
Glue RTD4 to RTD5 and follow the same steps as above. Mark 7.5 cm forward of F7. I screwed up here again and had to take a bit of RTD5 material out so it could sit flush with the fuse. No biggie, just a bit o' balsa.
Glue RB1 to RB2 and glue in place on the aft part of the upper fuse just behind RTD5.
Glue some 1/4" stingers in place to hold it all together.
Lay down and tape in place to the fuse, the large canopy floor as shown. Mark where the floor terminates on each of the stringers so you know where to glue RTD1.
Glue RTD1 in place at an angle of 109 degrees. Laying the fuse overtop the 1/2 scale side view and lining up RTD1 as shown on the plans makes things easier.
From the forward face of F5 measure 1.9 cm forward along the stringers and mark it on each stringer. Glue RTD2 on top of where you marked by aligning the marks you made previously to the aft face of RTD2.
From the forward face of F6, measure 7.2 cm forward along the stringers and mark it on each stringer. Glue RTD3 on top of where you marked by aligning the marks you made previously to the aft face of RTD3.
Glue RTD4 to RTD5 and follow the same steps as above. Mark 7.5 cm forward of F7. I screwed up here again and had to take a bit of RTD5 material out so it could sit flush with the fuse. No biggie, just a bit o' balsa.
Glue RB1 to RB2 and glue in place on the aft part of the upper fuse just behind RTD5.
Glue some 1/4" stingers in place to hold it all together.
10-21-2007, 03:31 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Well that's pretty much it for the fuse. I have to figure out, by sorting through all the parts, if I remembered to get the rear turtle deck sheeting precut.
Up next will be the canopy hatch construction.
Up next will be the canopy hatch construction.
10-21-2007, 03:48 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
I really like the way these fuses are being built now. Yesterday I tore apart my old WH Extra that I crashed first thing this year. While I'm tearing it apart, I'm thinking to myself, this thing must be fun to put together. Everything interlocks perfectly like a puzzle. Yours looks very similar. Any pricing on the kit yet?
10-21-2007, 03:56 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
I'll let Greg speak about pricing as it is in his hands. I don't make a cent from it other than he gave me a deal for a couple kits to see if it went together well. Given that it is inspired by Airwild, I'm not sure if there is any legality to consider too. Technically, I am not profiting by selling the plans and Greg is only charging for the wood and cutting time, not the design. Anyhow, I just do this for fun.
These are fun builds for sure. I have a bunch of 50CC designs on my own and this is the first one I reversed engineered. The ones I have designed have way more interlocking parts but this is a solid design in its own right. Build time on this is super quick because I actually had all the sheeting laser cut to save time. In fact I had the leading and trailing edges cut as well. The only extra wood needed is 5/16" and 1/4" balsa stock for stringers and spars (yes this actually uses CF reinforced balsa spars in the wing!). Because everything is interlocking and is precut, the build goes extremely fast. It probably took me about 7-8 hours to do the fuse and canopy hatch with a lot of distractions (MLB playoffs) to slow things down.
These are fun builds for sure. I have a bunch of 50CC designs on my own and this is the first one I reversed engineered. The ones I have designed have way more interlocking parts but this is a solid design in its own right. Build time on this is super quick because I actually had all the sheeting laser cut to save time. In fact I had the leading and trailing edges cut as well. The only extra wood needed is 5/16" and 1/4" balsa stock for stringers and spars (yes this actually uses CF reinforced balsa spars in the wing!). Because everything is interlocking and is precut, the build goes extremely fast. It probably took me about 7-8 hours to do the fuse and canopy hatch with a lot of distractions (MLB playoffs) to slow things down.
10-21-2007, 10:38 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Ok, so I didn't get a lot of pics of the hatch process but it is really simple.
Tape the hatch floor back to the fuse if you removed it already.
Glue CF1 and CF2 to the canopy floor as shown.
Glue FTDA, FTDB, FTDC together. The sheets are purposely cut crooked on one side so you can align them perfectly with eachother.
During assembly, it became clear that FTDA,B,C which were glued together to make the hatch sheeting was about 1/8" too wide so I took off 1/16" on each side for a better fit.
Run a bead of glue along one side of the canopy floor between CF1 and CF2B1/B2/A and tape the sheeting down along that side. Run a bead of glue on the other side of the floor and on each one of CF1 and CF2B1/B2/A (CF2B1/B2/A is made by gluing CF2B1 and CF2B2 together and then laminate this with the crossgrained CF2A) and fold the sheeting over to the other side. Tape this side down too. You may want to wet the sheeting a bit for easy bending but I didn't have a problem without that step.
I made another gaffe and forgot to make a crossgrain second piece for CF3B1 and CF3B2. No biggie, I just used CF3B1/B2 as a template and cut another crossgrain piece.
Fit CF3B1/B2/A onto the canopy floor and line it up with the trailing edge of the hatch sheeting. Glue the sides of the sheeting to the floor and the former in place and tape down.
Fit CF2 at the aft part of the canopy floor into the notches and line it up with RTD1. Another gaffe! I had to take about 1/8" from the outer part of CF2 to make it a bit more flush with RTD1.
Finally, I glued some 1/16" cap stripping as shown on the underside to add some support to the structure. I glued one set down and then another right on top. I used Med CA for this.
The final result is a super strong but super light hatch!
Tape the hatch floor back to the fuse if you removed it already.
Glue CF1 and CF2 to the canopy floor as shown.
Glue FTDA, FTDB, FTDC together. The sheets are purposely cut crooked on one side so you can align them perfectly with eachother.
During assembly, it became clear that FTDA,B,C which were glued together to make the hatch sheeting was about 1/8" too wide so I took off 1/16" on each side for a better fit.
Run a bead of glue along one side of the canopy floor between CF1 and CF2B1/B2/A and tape the sheeting down along that side. Run a bead of glue on the other side of the floor and on each one of CF1 and CF2B1/B2/A (CF2B1/B2/A is made by gluing CF2B1 and CF2B2 together and then laminate this with the crossgrained CF2A) and fold the sheeting over to the other side. Tape this side down too. You may want to wet the sheeting a bit for easy bending but I didn't have a problem without that step.
I made another gaffe and forgot to make a crossgrain second piece for CF3B1 and CF3B2. No biggie, I just used CF3B1/B2 as a template and cut another crossgrain piece.
Fit CF3B1/B2/A onto the canopy floor and line it up with the trailing edge of the hatch sheeting. Glue the sides of the sheeting to the floor and the former in place and tape down.
Fit CF2 at the aft part of the canopy floor into the notches and line it up with RTD1. Another gaffe! I had to take about 1/8" from the outer part of CF2 to make it a bit more flush with RTD1.
Finally, I glued some 1/16" cap stripping as shown on the underside to add some support to the structure. I glued one set down and then another right on top. I used Med CA for this.
The final result is a super strong but super light hatch!
10-22-2007, 07:46 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Ok, so glue together ES1, ES2 and ES3. Put some tape down on the sheeting underside as shown (sticky part facing up in the pic) and then pin it down onto the plans. Only pin the trailing edge in spite of what the pictures show.
Next lay down EGB as shown against the the sheeting and the tape. The tape will hold it in place temporarily. Don't glue it down just yet.
Start gluing E2, E4, E5, E6, E7 and E9 flush against the sheeting and EGB but only glue them to the sheeting aft of EGB. EGB will be tilted inward ever so slightly.
Glue E3 in place on top of E2 and against the fwd face of EGB. There should be a 1/16" crown left around to accommodate the sheeting.
Glue the sheeting into the crown and glue EGB to the sheeting where they make contact. Use a bead of glue along the inside of EGB to secure it to the sheeting along the entire length. Remember, it will be angled inward a tad.
I made another gaffe and cut EB on 1/8" sheeting instead of 1/16". No biggie, I just chopped of 1/16" off of E8 to accommodate it and then glued it in along with E9 making sure they fit together. Glue EA on top of E9 and E10 on top of E9 as shown on the plans.
Glue another ES1/2/3 combo together and install this sheeting on the other side.
Glue ELB to EGB and ELA to ELB. Also glue EL2 to EL1 and then glue this to the leading edge of the counter balance and flush with the edge of the sheeting. Sand the counter balance to a round finish using E1 and E4 as guides. Sand the other leading edge (EGB, ELA, ELB) to a V.
Voila, one elevator which is shown pre sanded in the last post along with H stab which we will tackle next. (Also missing is EA and E9 because I forgot to cut EA...they aren't actually necessary fortunately.)
Next lay down EGB as shown against the the sheeting and the tape. The tape will hold it in place temporarily. Don't glue it down just yet.
Start gluing E2, E4, E5, E6, E7 and E9 flush against the sheeting and EGB but only glue them to the sheeting aft of EGB. EGB will be tilted inward ever so slightly.
Glue E3 in place on top of E2 and against the fwd face of EGB. There should be a 1/16" crown left around to accommodate the sheeting.
Glue the sheeting into the crown and glue EGB to the sheeting where they make contact. Use a bead of glue along the inside of EGB to secure it to the sheeting along the entire length. Remember, it will be angled inward a tad.
I made another gaffe and cut EB on 1/8" sheeting instead of 1/16". No biggie, I just chopped of 1/16" off of E8 to accommodate it and then glued it in along with E9 making sure they fit together. Glue EA on top of E9 and E10 on top of E9 as shown on the plans.
Glue another ES1/2/3 combo together and install this sheeting on the other side.
Glue ELB to EGB and ELA to ELB. Also glue EL2 to EL1 and then glue this to the leading edge of the counter balance and flush with the edge of the sheeting. Sand the counter balance to a round finish using E1 and E4 as guides. Sand the other leading edge (EGB, ELA, ELB) to a V.
Voila, one elevator which is shown pre sanded in the last post along with H stab which we will tackle next. (Also missing is EA and E9 because I forgot to cut EA...they aren't actually necessary fortunately.)
10-22-2007, 10:13 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
I should post a Thanksgiving price this weekend on my website. So get your order submitted for this kit run. As you can see, John has a very nice custom Edge 540 that will be worth getting your hands on one or two.
Charlotte Aircraft Modeling is a custom kit cutting business for designers and builders.
[link=http://charlotteaircraftmodeling.com]Charlotte Aircraft Modeling[/link]
Thanks for your interest...
Greg
Charlotte Aircraft Modeling is a custom kit cutting business for designers and builders.
[link=http://charlotteaircraftmodeling.com]Charlotte Aircraft Modeling[/link]
Thanks for your interest...
Greg
10-23-2007, 06:59 PM
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RE: 50cc Edge 540 Scratch Build
Hey all,
I was contacted by Airwild today who expressed some concern about kitting this. I totally respect that and recommended to Greg at C.A.M. (who agreed) that he not market this kit. I'll continue the thread to end for those interested. Like I said before, this was a bit of a gray area to begin with even if I wasn't being compensated at all. In the meantime, I'll get busy designing another Edge for Greg!
Cheers!
J
I was contacted by Airwild today who expressed some concern about kitting this. I totally respect that and recommended to Greg at C.A.M. (who agreed) that he not market this kit. I'll continue the thread to end for those interested. Like I said before, this was a bit of a gray area to begin with even if I wasn't being compensated at all. In the meantime, I'll get busy designing another Edge for Greg!
Cheers!
J