yarom

My Feedback: (82)

If the cowl is anything less than 12", the DA/DL 50 will not fit inverted without having to cut a hole in the cowl for the plug cover.

On my EF Yak, the plug cover barely touches the cowl and it's 12".

Flyfalcons

Here's one of the cannister mounts. Just need to make one more like this one and I can epoxy them in place.

JEFFRO503

My Feedback: (9)

DUDE!!...i haven't seen a canister mount like that before! that's a really cool idea!

Flyfalcons

It wasn't my idea either. Hope it works!

Flyfalcons

Both cannister mounts are in place now, so I'll let the epoxy cure overnight before doing more work on the plane. The mounts were made by laminating two sheets of 1/8" lite ply together, then cutting to fit in the tunnel and the cannister. A few holes around the edges, some fuel tubing, and I was good to go. It took a little over two feet of fuel tubing to do the two mounts. I'm looking forward to fitting the cannister in the morning.

CollectivelySpaced

My Feedback: (18)

You're almost ready to go! Did you find a suitable Hawaiian Ken pilot figure?

astrohog

My Feedback: (1)

Or a Ken Kub Pylot yo?

Astro

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

*COUGH*

Flyfalcons

John that picture cracks me up, haha! Hawaiian Ken or Megaphone Ken, hmmm...

Flyfalcons

Here are a few "chores" I've done this morning before mounting up the cannister. Since the engine is off now, this would be a good time to drill the 1" hole in the firewall. Even though the firewall interlocks with the engne box (of which the side pieces go all the way back to the wing tube), I still prefer to pin it in place with screws. I had a Hangar 9 Extra firewall come loose before and now I'm paranoid about that stuff. Just personal preference on this matter. I had some extra screws after purchasing the sheet metal screws (#6 x 3/8") for the cannister and header so I drilled and installed the screws on the top and sides of the firewall.

Also shown is the sheet metal screw I installed in the cannister portion of the coupler. Don't drill the header bolt until final installation.

sweetpea01

My Feedback: (10)

I think its time for a new version........

Russian Ken

Flyfalcons

Cannister installed. Apparently I forgot that the exhaust pipe comes out forward before bending down, and I glued the front mount a little too far forward. Oops! [&:] Fortunately I was able to mount the cannister a little forward of where I wanted it, and cut the header and coupler a little more. Works now! [8D] I will wait on installing the lock screw on the header until I do final engine installation. Now that the cannister is mounted, I'll try to fabricate a throttle arm for the engine and will install the engine permanently.

Flyfalcons

Here is the brass throttle servo arm I made and bolted to the stock arm. What a huge pain that was. I sincerely hope that MT Engines includes usable throttle arms in the future. I'd much rather pay an extra 10 or 15 dollars for an engine with one versus spending an hour swearing at my drill press, locating spare bolts that will work properly, and trying to line everything up just right. This throttle arm I made looks bad, but it should do the job.

Also shown is the room left in the rear of the cannister tunnel. Looks like you could accomodate a cannister a few inches longer in length than the CS-65. Of course, if you need even more room you can simply remove the rear plate on the cannister tunnel.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I've done the same thing. No excuse why an engine sold for RC use does not have a proper throttle arm. What did the manufacture use when testing the engine?

Flyfalcons

Oh, it beats me. I brought this up on another forum and was told by the fan boys and a person affiliated with MT to suck it up and just make a throttle arm. Fortunately, Tomy (the importer and head of MT Engines USA) considered my observations and said he would include proper arms in the future. This is not a bag on the engine, just on the preparation of it for the consumer. I'm looking forward to running the engine soon.

Flyfalcons

As you can see here, I've hung the engine with a couple bolts to check the carb clearance and mark the holes for the throttle and choke pushrods as well as fuel line.

I also finally stopped being lazy and adjusted the settings on my camera. I've been taking full resolution shots and resizing them in a photo managing program for the internet at 600x800. Unfortunately the camera doesn't have that setting, but 640x480 works too.

Flyfalcons

Working on the choke linkage. This setup has worked well on my 50cc PAU Edge, so why change what works? This is a Sullivan #503 flexible Gold-N-Rod. It takes a bend inside the fuselage and exits at the bottom. The choke will get a plastic clevis and the other side just needs something threaded in for me to grab. Pull out to choke, push in to open. Perfect! I will also add a couple lite ply supports in the fuselage to prevent flexing of the assembly.

Flyfalcons

Looks like the DA-100 drill guide will work on the MT-57 bolt pattern. The bolts are smaller in diameter than the DA (4mm vs 5mm), so I will use the MT prop hub to center the bolts and the DA guide to keep the MT hub centered on the prop. The MT-57 has a threaded crankshaft, so in addition to the six bolts, most of the compression will come from a nut on the prop hub. The crankshaft is the standard size, so no center drilling on the PAU prop is necessary.

Flyfalcons

Yep! That did the trick.

astrohog

My Feedback: (1)

I wonder what Comrade Kenski would look like with an ORANGE hawaiian shirt, a megaphone and a fur-lined hat!!!

hahahaha!!

Astro

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Just suck it up and waste another hour of your life. At least Tomy is making changes.

Is this plane covered in Ultracote or Monokote, like the Ultimate? Just wondering what shade of red that is.

Flyfalcons

This plane is covered in Ultracote. The red is True Red (verified by Herve at PAU). The stick-on trim strip of True Red that I have is a shade darker, but that could be a variance in the batch of covering. Sorry about the incorrect post earlier; it is True Red for sure.

Flyfalcons

Holes drilled, engine box sealed, and the engine is back on. I may have to remove it again to get the throttle and choke pushrods attached but we'll see. In fact, with the width of this cowl, you can actually reach in and reach the choke lever without the need for a choke pushrod. I'm considering a baffle though, so that will hinder access to the carb. You can see I also drilled and screwed in the lock screw on the header.

Flyfalcons

The Sukhoi comes with a 20oz Dubro fuel tank with a gasoline stopper and tygon clunk line. You will need to purchase the rest of the fuel line, fuel filter, and fuel dot. I recommend four feet of fuel line. I ran out before I could install the vent line. I chose the Dubro black plastic fuel dot, as I have had success with it on my 50cc Midwest Extra and PAU Edge. Additionally, it blends in very well with the black fuse stripe. I recommend installing it near one of the side ply bulkheads, to help take the load when you are pulling the dot out and putting it back in. I also made a small lite-ply brace and installed it behind the hole for the fuel dot that I drilled. This helps the spread the load over the balsa sheeting. I've also dropped the throttle servo in one of the pre-cut holes, and will leave it there to check the CG.

Flyfalcons

Yarom, you are correct. For those considering installing a DA-50 in this plane, here are a few pictures of Herve's Sukhoi with DA-50 and pitts muffler installed. A relief hole for the spark plug will be necessary. This also shows how Herve cut the cowl for exit air, and he said he also cut out the cannister exit hole in the fuselage for additional exit air.