Post photo of your WW-I model:
 

I want everyone to see the beautiful models that my good friend Hank Iltzsch builds, so I am starting this thread for that purpose. I am hopeful that he will post some or all of his models here for all to see. But, I am sure that there are a lot of other good builders out there, and we want you to post your models also. If the model is scratch built - tell us about how and why you decided to build it. I will start with a model of my 1/4 scale Bristol Scout designed in 1975. After disappointing finishes at the Old Rhinebeck Jamboree with standard 60 size models, I decided that in order to win there we would have to come up with a model that the judges had never seen before, and at that time, a 1/4 scale model had never been seen before. We figured that if an airplane powered with a chainsaw engine would draw a lot of attention, then a squadron of them would draw even more attention, and that it did. Six members of the STARS club from Olean, NY ventured to make this dream possible. I designed the plane, and in 1976 we showed all six of them at Rhinebeck, but I was the only one that flew. That was because I had geared two Webra 60's together to get enough power to fly the airplane, but could only make one flight on a set of gears. ( I never told anyone). Soon afterward, we powered them with 1.4 cu.in. Roper gasoline engines, but they barely had enough power to fly the airplanes. Then, two of us purchased the first two Quadra 35 engines to be sold in the US, (from Ron Schettler) and our prayers were answered. The engines flew the planes perfectly, with our homemade props, and in 1977 we flew five models in formation at Rhinebeck - a sight to behold. This was truly the start of Giant Scale in the US; I became the first Quadra dealer and offered this very fine engine to the modeling fraternity, and you all know where that road took us. Look where we are today - it's truly amazing.

What is even more amazing, we flew all five original models in formation at the STARS Scale Rally in 2002, 25 years after they first flew at Rhinebeck. Three of the original pilots have passed on, but their models still live. Here is my model that is the grand-daddy to all other giant scale models. It is still in superb flying condition. The paint scheme and numbering was lifted from Profile Publications, so as to be genuine scale. Enjoy!

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In the year 2000, I decided to build a 1/3 scale model of my famous Bristol Scout, and power it with a Zenoah G-62. Here is a photo of that model.

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Jim: here are both of your 1/4 and 1/3 size Bristols!:D:D

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My Balsa USA 1/4 pup and My Uncle's Flair DR1

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My Balsa USA Nieuport 28 with Hansen Hobbies modified G26

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In the air where it belongs

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what do you mean Modified G26? Nice looking airplane!

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Hanson Hobbies offers a G26 converted to electronic ignition.

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That shot of the Nieuport 28 should make Balsa USA proud. Nice work - beautiful photo.

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Hi Jim , I also have a 1/4 scale Avro 504K scratch built from Dave Boddington plans [U.K] it is replica of the one at Old warden , Beds, England . It is painted with house latex , has a G62 & a hand carved 24-6 Menz type prop . Weighs 24lbs , all the wing ribs are properly hand stitched 80 ribs took 8 mins a rib . Has a dummy small compressor on cabane . Flys like a kite & one has to put loads of down elev; to land it .
Can't see how to send a couple of pics with this ?

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Hurri back again - Can I ask "Highflyer2" about his gorgeous Nieuport 28 ? I recently got a finished 28 from an estate sale , guy changed a lot of things on it . It hasn't flown .
I have got it together , but seems a lot of work at field to assemble it . Says I think on the info - leave the top & bottom left wings together attached to fuse with flying wires etc . Have the right wings together in a holding type jig & then put them on together at field . It is very difficult I find , have the bott; hatch off , connect the servo in middle , put the 2 pins that locate the wing lineup , 4 tabs with self tap screws , getting assembly over the cabane s , then all the outer cabanes screws & turnbuckles , lock wire ? There must be a proper way ? Any help ? thanks

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My BUSA Fokker DVIII.

Jim, Fine looking models... as usual!

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Hurri is having trouble posting his images of his great Avro 504 so I will do it here for him. I have seen it fly and it flies as great as it looks. The second, third and fourth images are Hurri's Avro but the first one is such a great flying shot of a 504 that I had to post it here with Hurri's three Avro shots. It is Peter Tack's Avro 504 from the World Scale Championships which some of us attended in 2002.

Also, Tom Crump has attached an image of his good looking Fokker D8. The interesting thing about it is that Hurri used the same color scheme on a D8 that he scratch built from "Scratch-a-Plane" plans and it now resides in my basement; I am the third owner. Unfortunately I don't have a digital image readily available to post it here.[:D[:D

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I like all the Fokkers, I have a Flair DR.1, a D.V11 and I'm now building a GTM D.V111


Del Johnson

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Well, we certainly are getting some very fine photos of WW-I aircraft. Flicka5 (Bud) - where do you come up with all the photos? You seem to have one for every occassion. Keep up the good work guys. Makes my Bristols look like they were made with a hatchet and a cross-cut saw.

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The Balsa USA kits don't go into that much detail with flying wires and such. Sounds like you got a Proctor kit from that estate sale.

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Speaking of large WW1 bipes, one of the drawbacks to these models is when you may want to take it to your own club field for a few casual flights with a limited time to fly, unlike some one, two or multi-day meets where you don't mind spending the time to assemble or disassemble with all the flying wires, etc. The recent RCM magazine, March 04, has a real cool article on leaving the wings and front fuse assembled together with all the flying wires and landing gear intact as one unit and the rear fuse as a second unit which was done with a large Sopwith Camel model. Then all you have to do is assemble two units at the fuse break area and connect some servo wires together as the rudder and elevator servos are mounted in the rear fuse section. I have a 1/3 size "Sop' Pup kit which I will have to try this with if I ever build the model.

I have seen Jim Messer's WW1 models up close and despite his modesty, they are no "hack" jobs! [:D[:D

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http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...es/lg-2940.jpg

1/4-scale, 88 inch span, brison 3.2, 24x8 Clark Industries prop.

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who says scrtach built doesn't fly? my jr 72",1917 Loening M-8, about 50 flights and its 80" pappy, 15 flights. both ready to go anytime. just add battaries and fuel. more if your interested. beleive me SCRATCH BUILT is the way to go. 1st - the hard part is knowing how to draw plans. 2nd know have to shave balsa without shaving your fingers off. 3rd have a good buddie, who is a darn good flyer. have agood time learning how! cuss words don't Help. dick will post photo's when I learn how to this page- need help!! am a good builder--not a computor person dick

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I wasn't aware that Gerryy (associated with M.A.N.) was into WW-I models. Nice Fokker, Gerry, and I'll bet it does fly nice. Just for memory's sake, here is a photo that appeared in the June 1978 issue of M.A.N. of our Bristol Scouts at Rhinebeck. The one in the foreground belonged to our club president (now deceased) who wanted to be different than the rest, whereas we used actual numbering on our models, 7051, 7053, 7055, etc. These are the same models that flew in formation in 2002 - 25 years after their first flights at Rhinebeck in 1977. Hope the photo turns out O.K.

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Thanks "Highflyer" for reply , It was written enough times that it was a Balsa Usa kit , I was so impressed with the pics of the nieuport 28 , that I felt that it must be a Proctor kit & ignored the written stuff , It is a Proctor kit I have& is a nite mare to assemble easy . Anyone else who can give me advice on how to take it to field to assemble without a big hassle , would really appreciatte it .

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As Jim Messer gave some the history of the STAR'S fleet of Bristol Scout models above, I have a few Kodak Brownie quality (faded) prints of the Scouts from the 1970's and also their second fleet of giant scale WW1 models, Fokker D8's at 30% scale. I am not sure if Jim built a D8 model but I have one of the original STARS D8's in my basement collection but haven't flown it now in over 10 years! It is powered by the Koritz 2.4 which was one heck of a solid engine but low in the power to weight ratio. It looks like their fleet of D8's included a minimum of five models! The D8 plans were also available from M.A.N., I believe, back a ton of years[:D:D

PS: also note Jim's Piper Tomahawk and Ercoupe in the one photo, all giant scale
that Jim designed back when giant scale was just getting started and Quadra was the engine to own

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Cool thread! Here's a couple more.

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Great looking pictures on this thread! Here are two pictures of my 1/5 scale Eindecker, and 1 picture of my 1/4 Sopwith Pup. Both are Balsa USA kits and I love them! I'm part of an RC Dawn Patrol group in Indiana, you can see our website at the bottom of this link. My current project is a 1/4 scale Nieuport 17.

How many of you went to the 2003 Dawn Patrol Rendezvous in Dayton, Ohio this past September? That event was awesome! So many WWI models in one place, there must have been 70+, as well as full size WWI planes. It was held at the Wright-Patterson Air Force Base Museum. Contact Dean Lukover at this address for more information on future Dawn Patrol Fly-Ins: [email protected]

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To: Homepylon, and Eindecker-pilot: Those are great photos of your WW-I planes. Photos of airplanes, "in the air" make them that much better.

To: flicka5: No - I did not build one of the D-8's when the club guys built theirs. I thought it was too big for the Q35, so I declined getting in on the project. As it turned out, I was almost right - the Q35 flew the plane, but not good. A Q50 would have been just right, but they weren't available at that time. The plane should have been made a tad smaller, but 1/4 scale was "the thing" back then, and it just had to be 1/4 scale - no matter what.

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Jim: found some better Kodak images of the STARS WW1 fleets, circa 1980-82.
What was outstanding about the STARS is how many other RC clubs have you seen build fleets of giant scale WW1 and fly them in formation? None that I have ever heard about! Ah, for the good old days before the ARF generations took to the fields.

My memory says that the STARS D8's were 30% scale which made them even heavier to fly with a Quadra 35 than if they had been designed at 1/4 scale. My STARS built D8 has the Koritz 2.4 which gives more power than the Q35 but also heavier. I also have the "scratch-a-plane" built 1/4 scale D8 which is powered with the Cheetah 42 (Q42) which has plenty of power and much faster than with the Koritz 2.4 on my 30% D8. One drawback with the D8 is with all the wing weight acting above the CG, in this parasol design, I always found it difficult to land without a "nose-over"! Does someone in the previous respondents know how to prevent this
from happening, like Tom Crump

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Hi Flicka , As you know I was the original buider of the D8 you have , it is the same color scheme as the Tom Crump one above . When I had it I had a q42 in it & honestly never nosed over on me . But hen I got a Q52 , sold the Q42 & put the 52 in the D8 . well it nosed over a lot then , it is like you said the eng; weight I guess .
Jim Messer is right about flying shots the best , but a lot of times its getting a good photo man to take them .

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flicks5,
I can honestly say that my DVIII has never nosed over on landing. Of course this is because I haven't flown it yet. Taxi tests have indicated that the tail gets real bouncy. When I do land it. I hope to keep it straight as possible and let it roll(hopefully) to a stop.

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Tom: don't know if you will have the same nose-over problem as my STARS built 30% D8 but I found the best approach was to land at high speed with wing level and tail up and then let friction slow it down as you closed the throttle and stayed on the elevator. My 30% STARS built D8 has a real heavy wing and with all that weight acting above the CG is what I think makes it nose over easily. Hurri has sent me two images today of the 1/4 scale D8 that he built and that I now own. Didn't have digital images of my own available and you may like to compare color schemes. Look Familiar?[:)[:)

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Bud,

Thanks for the advice on landing. I know my model is very top heavy. I'll keep what you said in mind when the time for the maiden flight arrives.

Thanks, too, for posting the pictures of the hurri/flicka DVIII.

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some of my 14 scratch Giants hanging from my fantasic's living/dinning room ceiling. another 10 in shops. 3 more in process. retirement is fantastic with a forgiving wife. dick

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They must all be stealthy designs???????????????? Both invisible to radar and the eye!:D:D

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as I said 'I'm a scratch builder--not a computor jock. will keep trying to post the photo's. dick

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jm. does this look ok? 1912 French Duperdussin Racer, 81" ws, gas engine. 3 scary flights. will send more if this one comes thru. dick

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Dick: don't take offense just a good spot for a little humor and you are not the only one who has trouble making their images appear on RCU. Let me know if you need some help and I will outline the method that works for me. Just email me for the instructions.:D

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Here is a few shots of my Airco DH2, 1/3 scale, 114" span Z62 power, with belt reduction to swing a 30"x 10 prop. Ian.

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To Idigbo: I always thought that my friend, Hank Iltzsch was the only one that built WW-I models that couldn't be recognized from that of the real airplane, but you are definitely in the same league. Those photos of your DH-2 are magnificent. Way back in 1976, my friend George Privateer built a DH-2 and we powered it with a Quadra 35. Had to add a couple pounds of lead to the nose to make it balance. George hand carved the pusher prop, and I assume you did the same for your 30 incher. How does the belt drive perform? What pulley ratio did you use?

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Ditto on Idigbo's DH2 as what a great giant WW1 scale model. Had to include this image of a Pup with "injured" pilot after a "shoot down"!:D:D

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Hi again,
The belt reduction is an off the shelf item, from Mick Reeves Models here in the UK, and it is geared to 1.75 to 1, with the prop turning at 4200. It seems to run OK, without overheating too much as the motor is just behind the cockpit, running an extention shaft (9 inch) which keeps the motor infront of the C G, and lessens the need for noseweight, although the batteries are right up in the nose. The shaft was designed by me, with lots of input from people who know more than I, but was made by a local, and excellent, engineer who knows his onions! The shaft runs in bearings, in an aluminium housing which bolts into the airframe, and there is also another bearing near the rear end of the shaft, which spins the dummy rotary at a much reduced RPM. The prop was made in the UK by EAT Props, although at first it was very heavy, too much material at the hub mainly, so I recarved (hacked!!) it and rebalanced it. The prop weighs about two thirds its original wieght. The model is due for its final LMA inspection at the weekend and, if it passes, test flights can begin. ROLL ON WEEKEND!!!!

Cheers, Ian.

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Looks like Top Gun effort to me! Amazing detail and attention to authenticity! Clever, those English chaps! ;);)