WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Looking very good!!!

Dash7ATP

Rich,

That is pretty neat! I don't have an exact length yet, as thatwill depend on the dummy engine. I'm pretty sure it won't be over an inch, or 1.125" at the most.

I'm not sure about the screw on the right side of the photo. It appears to be between the extension and the orgional thrust washer. Is that serving as a key to prevent the extension from slipping?

JOe

rhsmrt50

...That's correct Joe......the OS employs a woodruff key on the prop drive that maintains it's position on the uotput shaft...........but, if it was a square key I could have extended it to include the new shaft extension and no other modifications would have been necessary, but as it was there was no way to secure the new part........so......it was decided to modify the original prop drive by grinding flats on each side to accept a 1.25" open end wrench.........then drill a .156" hole .5 ' deep into the rear flange of the new extension to apply counter torque when using the wrench for tightening...........I did not use a torque wrench.....just the ole grunt method, sort-of like tightening a prop........but nice and tight..........then, at the center of the seperation line of the two parts....and at one of the flats......on a drill press, drill a .375" in deep hole to accept a 4-40 tap, and 1/4" long 4-40 socket head set screw.........a roll pin can also be used, but once installed it will be permanet.....so, Idecided on a removable extension........so, the set screw was the better choice......if the extension is removed, reinstalling it is a simplematter of torquing it to the point of alignment to allow the set screw threads to engage the set screw.........it is now locked against engine kickback..........the next thing I did Joe was to install a couple of small drive pins to the new propdrive to keep the prop from spinning loose sincethere is no serations todig into the prop........you can add them also witha drill press......the pins are of .031 music wire pressed into the drive plange and allowed to protrude about .031........that can vary if you wish......not critical...

I will include a photo of the pins and their location on the new prop driva.......

Rich.

rhsmrt50

Joe.......here is a few more details on this part...............one thing I would like to mention is that the anti-slip pins installed on the prop drive do not have to be installed 180 degrees apart.........it will not upset the balance being so close to centerline..........thebenefit of off-setting them slightly is that they will index with the prop only one way.........so, ifyou have to remove the prop for transportation..........when reinstalled theywill resume thier original position ......importantif they were set to stop in the horizontal position.............

Rich...

Dash7ATP

,Rich,

Very nice explaination and photos. It looks like it will work well. The plane I am doing had a large Mustang style spinner that was about half of the diameter of the cowl opening. Since a lot of Wacos have wood props, and Ihave made up a nice one, I'll probably stay with the wood style without the spinner. These were allattached with the six nuts around the shaft. That can easily be done witha dummy aluminum washer, not for flying.

More later.

Joe

rhsmrt50

.......Okay!.......now, where was I????...........oh!.......thats right!.......we were building nacelles!........the last time we talked I was adding necessary detail before the final coats of silver..........so here is the latest, most up-to date info on the saga ofthe never ending .....Bobcat Novel.

Rich.....

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Deleted.

Bob

rhsmrt50

......What has been deleted?

Rich.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

My post.

Bob

rhsmrt50

...was it you text Bob?.........photos?

Rich.

rhsmrt50

......Iknow what you mean Bob..........I have set down to write a long one and with all of the interuptions.......like phone calls etc............I go to post and I get a message that I have timed out!!!!.......that's not suppose to happen........but it has often enough that I go to save.....just in case..........I donttrust the system.........I has let me down too many times...........so, save your work!.......it's valuable!...

Rich.

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Me either. had the same problems. It's really a bad system. I can understand it timing out but it shouldn't erase the editor since all that stuff is being stored in your machine mem cache until you post anyway. I've been burned several times. I got to where when I doing anything other than a quick reply I just compose in another app and then just paste it in when I'm done. PITB but better than losing a 1/2 hour + worth of thoughts/time etc.

Joel

rhsmrt50

.......well, I'am not sure about these parts.....they look too thick........these were thin sheet metal on the real plane...........I think I will try a thinner paper........anyway, these will give you some idea of what they will look like......

Rich.

rhsmrt50

.....Right Joel, also composing the text in Word is another way...........then you can add your photos when you post it.

Rich..

Dash7ATP

Rich,

I"m suer you have a micrometer. How thich are they? I'll be the full scale was about 1/16" or maybe slightly more.. So 1/5 of whater they were............ Maybe they are not too thick. Those old airplanesare not the slickest ones out there by todays standards.

Joe

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I know this is more trouble, but if you can't find anything thin enough how about masking it and using primer build-up to create it?

On second thought, the edges will not remain sharp once you add the top coat. One more idea.....how about using a cutout of an adhesive address label?

Bob

dauntlessuk

Hi Rich,
Enjoying your great work. Have you thought of using litho plate? It's very thin, can be cut with scissors and is light. It has the added advantage that any paint chips reveal an aluminium (uk spelling!) finish.

David

rhsmrt50

.....I do, and I use it like a third arm..........your right, the part is about .063..........I am using .016 material, slightly thicker that 1/5 scale.........one of the problems I discovered was that I forgot the remove the glued down pattern ....which is just printer paper........so this may account for the thicker look....plus the CA.....plus the paint......also the rubber cement that holds the pattern in place while cutting etc.........it's rather on the thick side all by itself.....

Rich...

rhsmrt50

Hi David........I do have a very thin sheet if aluminum...(aluminium).....that is also very springy and was used as a printers plate......it cuts easily withscissors also......could this be the same material?

Rich.

rhsmrt50

Hi Bob.....glad you got thru this time........thanks for the tips, I like the suggestion of the sticky-back label's..........these parts are non-functioning on the model, and willbe added after the final coat.........so, right now I am still experimenting.

Rich.

dauntlessuk

Hi Rich,
Yes, over here it's used for lithographic printing (hence litho plate)- so printers plate is the same stuff. It can be had in various thicknesses and is springy, but can be annealed to "soften" it to allow it to be formed into quite complex shapes.
Keep up the good work.
David

rhsmrt50

Thanks so much David......I have a friend that once worked ina print shop and he would save acouplefor me...........I have yet to usethem tho.....now's my chance.....and I will post my progress ...............

Rich..

rhsmrt50

.....Your right Joe they did for sure..........thats why I decided to build the bobcat.....everything has a sloppy fit, looks like it was put together in a hurry......makes me feel comfortable.........kind of goes along with some of my building techniques.........aaaaah, just kidding..........but I do like that look of the ole warbirds........dirty, paint missing, dents, oil all over the place.........

Rich.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Rich, I came across this stuff and I've been trying to find a use for it in modeling:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMPI

You may have some ideas. I haven't bought any yet, but I just might, if I find it useful. Probably is way more than I'll ever need, just like the box of 50 syringes and 5000 mixing cups I bought because they were priced way below hobby retail.

Bob

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

rhsmrt50,

Looks very scale to me, and I am looking at it while keeping in mind all of the cowls I have pulled off over the years. Some of which were Beech 18, T-6, among other heavy early metal planes with cowls equal to the T-50 I am sure.