Ailerons twiching on idle
06-01-2014, 10:19 AM
#27
ok
I cheked the spark plugs and they are tight, pushed down hard on the rubber booths and they are in as much as possible, made some changes to the install by moving a few things around.
The ignition batt is now next to the ing box like before and no cables around it, the throttle servo is 20 inches away from the firewall and the pushroad is plastic, the choke servo is no more to replace it I have install a plastic push road secured under via rubber rings , change the AR7000 Spektrum receiver for a Futaba 7 chl FASST, moved the ignition switch to the other side of the fuse to enhance distance between electronics, added a fuel filter.
Looks like I will be using two Y extentions to plug in the batts cables since on this receiver chl 7 is also batt, any suggestion where to connect the Ys,
I cheked the spark plugs and they are tight, pushed down hard on the rubber booths and they are in as much as possible, made some changes to the install by moving a few things around.
The ignition batt is now next to the ing box like before and no cables around it, the throttle servo is 20 inches away from the firewall and the pushroad is plastic, the choke servo is no more to replace it I have install a plastic push road secured under via rubber rings , change the AR7000 Spektrum receiver for a Futaba 7 chl FASST, moved the ignition switch to the other side of the fuse to enhance distance between electronics, added a fuel filter.
Looks like I will be using two Y extentions to plug in the batts cables since on this receiver chl 7 is also batt, any suggestion where to connect the Ys,
Last edited by CARS II; 06-02-2014 at 10:21 PM.
06-01-2014, 11:17 AM
#28
I still have to make some more changes to the install all around to have it ready for the first flight with me ( minor changes ) the kill sitch will be added before first flight.
I may have a chance to run it today if I do I will post the results tonight.
I may have a chance to run it today if I do I will post the results tonight.
06-02-2014, 02:50 PM
#32
Carlos, I have had the rare occasion where the braided ground wire from the boot came loose at the mounting lug. You can’t see it because the break is covered by the heat shrink tubing. When I was out of all ideas, I took an Exacto blade and opened up the tubing. It was only then that I saw it. . Pull on them gently and make sure they are attached. By the way, what is the Y connector going to the receiver for. Dan.
06-02-2014, 03:05 PM
#33
Well, well, I just run the engine in the garage and run it at its lowest RPMs to recreate the previous twitching situation, it looks like the twitching symptom is out the door, no more, that was also my first time starting a gas engine, I followed my friends ( the previous owner ) and your advice, all you guys that pitch in, it was ease as cake ( or is it pie? ) four flips with choke closed then broom, then three flips with the choke open then barooooooommmmmmm, how sweet.
Thank you all for your time and comments, suggestions and opinions, I learned a lot and hope to learn more in the coming months but if I'm stuck with a question I know where to go RCU.
I will be reporting by this Saturday after the first and second flights.
I suspect that the throttle cable was accting as a conductor ( antenna ) for the RF moving it back where the receiver and Ailerons cables were exposed to it.
Thank you all for your time and comments, suggestions and opinions, I learned a lot and hope to learn more in the coming months but if I'm stuck with a question I know where to go RCU.
I will be reporting by this Saturday after the first and second flights.
I suspect that the throttle cable was accting as a conductor ( antenna ) for the RF moving it back where the receiver and Ailerons cables were exposed to it.
06-02-2014, 03:23 PM
#35
Dan, thank you for the suggestion on the wires, I had the same thoughts and did exactly that before I run the engine just to make sure the wires were not broken.
The Y that you see is one of two that I will have to use to connect the two batteries to the receiver, I will be using two Ail, two Ele, Rudd, Thro and Kill switch, the final set up for the receiver is not complete yet, once I have it done the wires are going to be organized and is going to look clean as it should be, everything else is done, there where a few things to fix like wheels getting stuck and sking needing to be strech.
Dan like you said it, this is not a precise sience, I'm not exactly sure what fixed it, the change of receiver, throttle push road removed and changes to plastic, batt moved, throttle servo moved, chocke servo removed, not sure just glad it got fixed.
I thank you for all you suggestions and comments
The Y that you see is one of two that I will have to use to connect the two batteries to the receiver, I will be using two Ail, two Ele, Rudd, Thro and Kill switch, the final set up for the receiver is not complete yet, once I have it done the wires are going to be organized and is going to look clean as it should be, everything else is done, there where a few things to fix like wheels getting stuck and sking needing to be strech.
Dan like you said it, this is not a precise sience, I'm not exactly sure what fixed it, the change of receiver, throttle push road removed and changes to plastic, batt moved, throttle servo moved, chocke servo removed, not sure just glad it got fixed.
I thank you for all you suggestions and comments
Last edited by CARS II; 06-02-2014 at 03:42 PM.
06-02-2014, 03:39 PM
#36
Carlos, connecting two batteries to the receiver using of a Y connector is not a good idea. This puts the batteries in parallel and the weaker battery will always be a load on the stronger one. You need to have some kind of battery isolation circuit between the two batteries and they are available. The problem with them is that they are a complex assembly of electronic components and the more complexity you introduce the more likely you are going to have a failure. The best setup is one good reliable battery. Dan.
06-02-2014, 03:47 PM
#37
Since it is suggested that one should keep a back up ignition in the tool box just in case it is needed I may just get me the newer CH twin cylinder ignition and two spark plugs and prop.
Any other item I should keep as back up in the tool box?
Any other item I should keep as back up in the tool box?
06-02-2014, 03:56 PM
#38
Very good point Dan, I have read about the pro and cons of having two batts with two switches or using something like a Battshear which I have used before on a fast mover.
I'm one of those that will check the battery of the aircraft I'm flying right after the flight and keeps track of its ealy life to compare that data with data collected at the end of the year and will not use a 3 years old batt even if it is in good shape, because of that I have never ( not yet ) lost an airplane because of the lack of batt maintenace.
You also may have a point on using only one batt, with todays batts that are so reliable who can argue that one batt is all you need.
I'm one of those that will check the battery of the aircraft I'm flying right after the flight and keeps track of its ealy life to compare that data with data collected at the end of the year and will not use a 3 years old batt even if it is in good shape, because of that I have never ( not yet ) lost an airplane because of the lack of batt maintenace.
You also may have a point on using only one batt, with todays batts that are so reliable who can argue that one batt is all you need.
06-02-2014, 03:57 PM
#39
The item you will need the most is the one you will forget. LOL. Actually ignition failures are pretty rare. Most of the ones that I have seen have resulted from mistakenly pumping too much voltage into the unit. Others have just been wire failures due to chaffing. Where are you going to fly this airplane? I at times fly at the Woodland Davis site as well as Sacramento Area Modelers.
06-02-2014, 04:16 PM
#40
WD is my home field since home is in Sac, we are having the jet meet this Fri, Sat, Sun, the previous owner is going to be there on Saturday ( my friend Jose' ) we are going to work/fly the Gee Bee on Sat after the event around 3 pm, hope to see you there ( bring an airplane to fly )
Last edited by CARS II; 06-02-2014 at 04:34 PM.
06-02-2014, 05:45 PM
#43
It’s the device that triggers the ignition module to fire the spark plug. It may have a red, black and white wire coming from it with a connector at the end that plugs in to a matching connector from the ignition module. It is usually mounted in the crankcase and overhangs a rotating prop hub rotating with the crankshaft. I’ll attach an image of one that is on one of my engines. You can see it mounted in the white nylon timing ring. Dan.
06-02-2014, 07:52 PM
#47
Spedd
After doing a litle research regarding your question about the resistor spark plug I now can say, yes they have a resistor build in them.
http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/...od/product/277
Love this learning thing, a little a the time.
After doing a litle research regarding your question about the resistor spark plug I now can say, yes they have a resistor build in them.
http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/...od/product/277
Love this learning thing, a little a the time.
06-03-2014, 03:21 AM
#48
By knowing the cause, you can utilize the info on your next model, by not incorporating the mistake into the assembly procedure,.
06-03-2014, 03:43 AM
#49
I don't see any ground straps from your ignition module to your engine mount. That is recommended practice even with shielded ignition wires. Might give that a try to see if it helps.
06-03-2014, 12:45 PM
#50
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Hey carlos, I had the same problem with a futaba radio and Futaba metal gear servos. I put on some extensions with the resistors on them and it didn't help. I changed out the servos for the hitec metal gear and steady as a rock.
just my 2C
Tony
just my 2C
Tony