TomCrump

I agree. I think it's a BUSA Cub, too.

I have this kit. When I build it, I plan to change the wing retention system. The kit's method is cumbersome.

Leroy Gardner

It is a balsa kit, I'm building one right now into a super cub. Nice covering job, if you put a automotive clear coat on it it will be as chemical resistant as the paint on your car and will not alter the fabric color, Solartex is sealed. Laytex paint is fuel proof but not stain proof and there is no laytex in laytex paint, good quality laytex paint is 20% acrylic resin and 80% vinyl and like one guy said it takes a long time to cure at 70 deg.

spaceworm

I could be wrong, but I don't think latex paint is fuel proof to both gasoline and glow fuel. When we talk of fuel, maybe we need to address both gasoline and glow fuels. I don't thinlk electric power is a problem until they catch on fire, then nothing is resistant to that.

TomCrump

You're correct. Latex is not glow fuel proof. It's fine with gas, however.

Love2FlyMN

Well I sprayed it down with a coat of the engine enamel. It darkened the color a little bit, which I'm very pleased with. I need to spray a couple more parts and then do another coat, then it's installing control surfaces, landing gear, new windshield, servos, and hook up linkages. Hoping to get it done by Christmas weekend!

Love2FlyMN

For the decals, would car wrap material work?

How do I pick an N-number?

I glued elevator and ailerons in last night. Should be hooking up linkages this weekend, then hoping to fly next weekend!

Hoping the snow stays away cuz I haven't built my set of skis for it yet.

Steve S. Helland

My Feedback: (15)

Nice job! Looks sealed to me! That G-38 should haul it around nicely!
Type into any search engine: "J-3 Cub pictures" , at the bottom of a few pictures you will find: "see more images or pictures"
Look through these to find examples of "N" number designations.

Usually it starts with "N" then 4 numbers and 1 more letter
OR
"NC" then five numbers

There are many however, the last Cub I built I just made them up.

Love2FlyMN

Sounds good.
Does anyone have a 1/4 scale sitting around that they can measure the height and width of their letters for me? 1/4 scale of regular 12" letters would be 3", but I think the wing #'s are bigger than the required 12" fuse #'s.

Going to pick up what's hopefully the last of the hardware etc I need to finish this thing. Control rod ends, fuel tank, fuel line, rx, etc.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

In 1946, cubs left the factory with 24" high N numbers on the wings (or 6" at 1/4 scale). On the 1/4 scale cub I'm restoring, they are 5 1/2" high to fit between the wing struts (and run the length of the aileron). In my case, I'm not sure if they are slightly smaller because I'm modeling a specific U.K. cub.

Love2FlyMN

Fantastic, thank you.

poprlite

My Feedback: (25)

Solartex sealed? Where did you hear that it wasn't?

Love2FlyMN

Someone who hasn't worked with solartex asked a few posts back if it's sealed or not

poprlite

My Feedback: (25)

Very nice cub you have there. It will fly well with your 38 for sure. Good luck on your maiden.

TomCrump

I guessthat a definition of "sealed" would help.

Solartex is fuel/gas proof, straight from the factory. From that aspect, it does not need to be sealed.

The pre-colored Solartex gets dirty quite easily Sealing it with a clear coat helps to prevent this.

That is why I prefer to cover with Natural Solartex, and then paint. The paint prevents dirt accumulation, allows for cusom colors, and eliminates the need to find matching paint for the glass and plastic pieces. Depending on the paint used, there would be no need for a clear coat.

Love2FlyMN

Can someone take a picture of their landing gear?
Thanks.

spaceworm

Yellow one is a GODADDY product. The drawing is of the Robert gear.

Love2FlyMN

Thank you. Mine doesn't look like either of those. I'll snap a pic tonight and post tomorrow to see if anyone has the same gear.

I taxied around the yard the other day. That G38 has more than enough power to pull this thing around!

SunDevilPilot

These are the Robart gear on my Sig 1/4 Cub with some DIY spring struts.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Build your own here's mine on a Balsa USA cub.

Dennis

Love2FlyMN

Of course I forgot to take a picture of it, so here's a sketch.
I'm just wondering if the bottom front cross piece is supposed to be fixed to the middle cross piece, or if I'm supposed to make it elastic between there so there's some flex? I was thinking of wrapping it with something that has flex so it has some give.

Love2FlyMN

Is there a better way to secure a wheel on the axle instead of using the typical collar with set screw? I feel like this isn't a very secure way of doing it. Especially when I can't get a lot of torque on that set screw with such a small hex driver.

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

Some people solder a washer on the end of the axle to retain the wheel. I replace the set screw with an small allen head bolt so you can use a larger driver and get more torque on it. That, and a little loc-tite, keeps the collar in place.

Love2FlyMN

Sounds good, thanks. I like the SHCS idea.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

File a flat spot, notch on the axle where the set screw seats. It only takes minimal torque to retain the collar and that combined with a bit of LocTite and the wheel will be secure. The set screw can't go out past the outer ridge of the notch on the axle.

Love2FlyMN

What would be some good tires/wheels for this plane? I have some older du-bro ones, but I can't find one and the other I pushed the fill fitting in to the inside of the tire.

Thanks.