doublebs

bonanzadrv , from what i've read i think that the 60 is too much pwr for this plane . i'm putting the da50 in and again from what i've read is better suited and still should have tons of power . also may want to look at the dimentions of the 60 . might not look so scale if half the motor is hanging out . it really depends what your going for . maybe with that much pwr you will also have to beef up the wing structure due to increased loads?
let us know what you decide . a 60 would sure haul though!!!!!

Jan_Petter

Hi there,

I'm still struggling with the sliding canopy!

Instructions says:
-> "clearance of 3/16" is maintained between the (canopy)-frame and the deck"

I thought the reason for this was for the plastic canopy to overlap the frame and flush the fuslage. But, the brass track is supposed to be glued to the inside of the fuselage, and still be conected to the frame. How the heck is the 3/16" clearance to be maintained??????

My eyes are flowing...

BR;

Jan Petter

dragonfly24_24

e-mail me the instructions or put them up in here and i will see what i can make of them.

Jan_Petter

Hi dragonfly,

Thank's for volunteering. I have sent you a mail/PM, and will send you the instructions by mail if I get your mail address. I have also posted scanned versions of the instructions, dont know if they are readable.

And a few more pics, to give ya all a better idea of what I'm struggling with.

Perhaps 101 for those experienced ones, but I have not yet figured out how the frame is connected to the fuselage and how the brass tracks that comes with the kit is mounted. I understand that there has to be one track glued to each side of the fuse to track the screw on each side of the frame, and one on the top deck to trail the allen screw on the bottom of the frame. (I think)

But I still don't understand how to make the 3/16" clearance as told in the instructions.

dragonfly24_24

it might just be that the screw is 3/16 away from the back of the plastic. i think.

anybody else have something on this.

Jan_Petter

Sorry for bothering you all with this stupid problem of mine...

But, I have tried to make my own drawing of the problem, for better understanding, if possible.

As I read the instructions, the 3/16" clearance is between the deck and the frame, (seen from the side) the clearance reduces to nothing at the back end of the cockpit. But I still don't know how to attache the frame and still maintain the clearence???

If I glue the brass track on the inside of the fuselage, I will get no clearance at all.

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

Jan,

Have a look at this link...it may give some insight to your problem. It looks to me that the 3/16 clearence reference is for the rear of the canopy frame only. This can be obtained by adjusting the rear frame screw to the correct length.

http://www.waltsrchanger.com/html/_canopy.html

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

Photo...

Jan_Petter

Thank you Countryboy. I have studied the pictures, and it seems like the brass tracks are glued on top of the side of the fuselage, and not on the inside. This could help on the 3/16" clearence! I'll test when I get back from work.

Beautiful stang by the way!

BR;
Jan Petter

dragonfly24_24

Jan Petter

I just talked with the guy from aerotech and he told me the 3/16 inch is the canopy it self not the frame. Its the clear lexan canopy that hangs below the fuse sides 3/16 so that there is no gap when its closed the brass tracks glue up as high as you can get them. if you would like to call them the number is (612) 7211285

Jan_Petter

Thank you all for the help on this one.

I will take all the advice into account when I do the frame. I must say that if Aerotech means it's the clear lexan canopy that hangs below the fuse sides 3/16, they should re-write their instructions in pt 7 which says:

"Slide frame forward so the proper clearance of 3/16" is maintained between the frame and deck."

The same really goes for the drawings...

OK, I'll let you know the final result

doublebs

hi jan , i agree , i think that areotech are making great products , however their instructions really do need to be re-done for better clairity .
it is starting to warm up here so hopefully i can start working on birdy again . durring december and january when it was cold and i was heating my shop my hydro bill was $780.00 ..............ouch!! needless to say i've since been in somewhat of a holding pattern . lol .
the snow is melting fast now and today i'm going to order the fibreglass cowl and other goodies for the gear doors . i am trying to find suitable hinges for the outer gear doors . areotech recommends metal ones but i'm having a hard time finding some that small , any thoughts fellas???
thanks,
berrick

Jan_Petter

Jepp, the Aerotech quality is top-notch, just needs to improve on the instructions.

This week-end I received the engine intended for my P-51. I have made my own engine support, no fancy stand-offs, but it puts the back plate of the spinner exactly 8 1/8" in front of the FW

But, from the picture, you will clearly see my next big challenge, the MUFFLER!!

On the TF drawing they show us a gas engine with a rear exhaust port, and a nice slim muffler neatly placed between the cyllinder and the FW. Does anyone out there know where to find such a stock muffler? Or at least something similar, that I could easily modify?

Snaer810

Morning Jan,

Finally able to get back to building again. been so busy with other things lately.

What engine did you install there? I might have an idea for a mufler for you. Nice job on the engine mounting.

I've just about finished with my wing skins and will be starting the fuselage later this week. Found a used DA-50 here on RCU. Thinking about purchasing it. Good Price too! $430.00 Any ideas on what to watch out for when purchasing a used gas engine? This is my first gasser so wanting to be careful.


The WX here in Michigan is getting better too. Snow is almost gone, but I don't think mother nature is done yet....[&o]

I'll be posting some pics of progress on Wed.

Mike

Jan_Petter

Hi there Mike,

Good to hear you are back in business

My engine is a Moki 45, which is an affordable choice at that size. I am far from experienced with gas engines of this size, so I really don't know what to look for when buing second hand, other than normal tear and wear.

All idèas on mufflers are highly appreciated

dragonfly24_24

http://www.brillelli.com/brillelli_009.htm Here is another engine option.

tomtope

ok im back but still sulking []. sheeted top of wing, then left to go out of town, when i returned top sheeting had pulled loose from ribs. havent had the desire to cut it loose and get started again, but i will in a few more days.
but untill then as i said before this is my first in 15-20 yrs. i need help choosing a radio that will not have to be replaced later with bigger and better. leaning toward the 9c but seem to be alot of diff. options ppm pcm fm sythisized and non please help me just tell me what to buy thanks.

tom

dragonfly24_24

here is a radio that you will not have to worry about frequncys and pins its a 7 channel radio once they my a 10 channel the jet guys at my field are going to put it in there turbine powered jets. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM2710

tomtope

will my futaba servos work with the spectrum.

Snaer810

Morning Tom,

Welcome to this P51 thread.!!

As far as your wing skins....Sorry to hear about your trouble....been there done that!!.....[>:]

I had real good success with using Gorrilla Glue and sand bags to keep the wing skins in place. {Just bought 2 gal. zip lock bags and 50lbs. of play sand, a whole .....$8.00} The Glue will not start to set up for at least 30 min's, so there is plenty of time to work with the skins getting them in place correctly. The Gorrilla Glue is also gap filling which is a big plus so it makes sure that there are no rib gaps. They came out beautiful!


As far as the radio; I will go along with Dragon....The JR DX7 is a great choice. I have the JR XP6102 but I am looking at going up to a 7 channel the (JR 7202) with the R790 reciever. This is a fully SYNTHESIZED radio system...no crystals so no worries as far as what channel your on. It will also works with any of the JR recievers with crystals (R600, R770..etc)

There are a lot of these radio's being sold on Ebay right now. (mnhobbies).

UP FOR AUCTION IS A BRAND NEW JR 7202 COMPUTERIZED 72MHZ SEVEN CHANNEL FULLY SYNTHESIZED RC AIRPLANE / HELICOPTER TRANSMITTER. IT HAS NEVER BEEN USED AND IS READY TO BE INSTALLED IN YOUR NEW AIRPLANE.

THIS IS THE AIRPLANE VERSION WITH A RATCHET ON THE THROTTLE.

FEATURES: 20 MODEL MEMORY, 5 POINT THROTTLE AND PITCH CURVES, EXPEDIENTIAL, DUAL RATES, MIXING, AND TONS OF OTHER GREAT FEATURES. *AUCTION INCLUDES TRANSMITTER, ANTENNA, TX BATTERY, CHARGER, INSTRUCTIONS, WARRANTY CARD, AND BOX.

He is selling compontents separatly.....but the TX has been going between $145 to $155.....RX for about $80. (Picture below) I will be going this direction because you'll want to buy your servo's separatly for this model or any other that is this size {My opinion of course). I just don't know if I would trust the DS821's to do the job for you. (I believe their right at the edge of the torgue spectrum(88oz @ 6V) that I would want in the P51 of this size no matter what TF is requireing.) You'll be wanting to purchase your own battery packs also to power all these servos, engine ing...etc.

You can use Futba servos in the JR reciever i believe, but you have to cut down the small "J" tab to get them to fit into a JR reciever....You may want to look into this more.

I'm using Hitec 5645 digitals (168oz torque @ 6V) in the wing and rudder/Elev control. Everything else will be standard. This maybe over kill, but a lot of the guys on the P51 ARF site are going that direction so there are no failures..... So unless you need the 821's for a smaller model you might think about going with the whole package. All depends on $ you want to spend and do you have the applications for them.


Well feel free to ask all the questions you want....there is a lot of experience in here.....I'm still learning too by the way!!

HI to all the other fella's out there.....getting warmer....getting the itch to go flying!!!

Mike

doublebs

hello boys! mike thats funny cause my buddy went to our site to check out the snow . looks good . it's all off the tarmack so now we're just waiting for the sides to clear off a little . probebly able to fly next weekend!!!!!!!!!!!! i think that i will start my da on the stand this weekend for the first time. now i've searched the forums but haven't found any answers on how to break in the motor . the da instuctions don't really say much other than what oil they prefer you to use. i have got the lawnboy ashless but i'm not sure how hard to run it ??????? anyone with gasser exp. here to give me some advice would be very much appreciated .

hi tom , i too need to upgrade my tx for this plane . i personally was leaning to a nine channel jr . i like the technology specktrum's got i only wish they had a 9 ch . i was talking to a fellow flier about to upgrade his tx and he was telling me that specktrum has a module that you can put in your jr or futaba and basically make it 2.4 by popping the old one out . i have yet yo look into this option but it might be worth considering if you want more than a seven channel radio . i will leave the new radio purchase until last in the hope that specktrum come out with a 9 .

hey dragon how's it going? are you building or still job hunting? how is school going? lemme know . if it's nice this weekend i'll start to do some sanding on the fuse . i'm waiting for a shipment of parts at the moment . i ordered the full fiberglass cowl and rad scoop as well as hinge points and stuff to finish the gear doors. i think on the tailwheel i will balsa the whole thing over then use monocoat over top and make gear doors out of a couple layers of 2 oz. glass . by friend with the corsair did all of his doors that way and man did they ever turn out sweet!!! real pro-school !!

so long for now ,

berrick

dragonfly24_24

hey doubles i did find a job i start it on saterday of all days. School is going great. I am almost done with the General section f my A&P School. I will be starting Airframe on the 26TH of this month. whaoo!!!! the job i got is working at Jiffy Lube. Last week a maidened a .40 size funtana.

As far as breaking in your DA there is a lot of contraverse about how to break in a gas engine. Now if you recall from mowing and weed eating around your house. You went down to the hardware store and bought a weedeater stuck fuel oil mix in the gastank, pumped the carb a few times and pulled the string and you really have not done much else to it. the guy who makes my engine says to peak out the engine then back it of 100 to 200 rpms and fly it in. no bench running. But if you just want to here that puppy holler, go ahead and start it up. i am going to send my engine back to the guy and have the upgraded electronics put in it, since i did buy mine second hand.

well thats about it for me i have not done anything on my stang in quite a while. Basically waiting on income.

Snaer810

Hey Berrick,,,,Hey Doublebs,

I have been following the DL-50 forum for quite some time. The DL appears to be the copy of the DA (At least everything looks and measures out to be the same) Of course the price is quite different.....DA $600....DL $370.......[8D]

There are some really good posts in there from some very knowledgeable gas engine guys. It really appears to be some personal preference as to the break-in of these engines....but their is one fella that really knows his stuff and been into the gas engine scene for quite some time. It falls right in line with what Dragon was saying. Almost all of his engines have been broken in on the aircraft not on a test stand and there is no need to run 1 or 2 gal's. of gas through them on the stand.

He is at first peaking out the engine (always checking the head temps) and then backing it off by 100 to 200 RPM. For the first 3 to 4 runs he will be making sure that the engine is not running at full RPM for more than 15 to 20 sec. and keeps changing up the RPM's to make sure the engine does not over heat. He was indicating that the rings are really the only thing that needs to be seated correctly.

So it sounds like the fuel/oil mixture is very important in making sure the the rings are seated properly and keeping the head temps down. They seem to like a 22X8 or 22X10 prop to begin the break-in process. As you put time on the engine you'll be able to feel the engine start to lossen up as the rings begin to seat to the cylinder sleeve.

Other than that go flying man!!!

Let me know if you see anything else different on this.......I'm new to this also.....

Talk to later


Mike

GR8LAND

Hello fellow Mustang pilots................Just finished my glass job on my fuse, And will start the wing this weekend. This is my first glass job and thanks to this thread and great people I must say I am very happy with the way its going. Hope you don't mind me popping in every now and then. Lots of good people and stuff on this thread.

doublebs

It SNOWED last night and today it's raining!!!!![&o] . and to think that just yesterday i was out in my yard playin' with the dog , watching the the new grass grow and wondering if it was too early to wheel the barbeque out , uncovering her , and maybe even givin' her a spring cleaning..... ahhh yes , mother nature can sometimes be a real b**ch ! it's suppose to pour all weekend so maybe i'll work on the plane a bit .

dragon , glad to hear about the job man thats great !!!! airframe !! very cool D , thats wicked . so tell us more about the maiden. any surprises? likes or dislikes of the funtana . i almost bought one last season but instead bought a sig sundancer . love to know what you thought of her . at least your early impressions .

mike , thanks for the dl 50 forum . after i'm done here i'm going to check it out . you too dragon , thanks for the advice on breaking in my da both of you have been very helpful .

i have also read about what you guys are saying with the break-in in some forums last night . like you say, it seems to be a personal preference . somehow it goes against my instinctive need to test , then test some more . i think i might mix up a gallon of fuel , start it up ,and run a tank through it . if anything just to hear it . then, the rest i'll do as i practice taxi-ing and getting use to the ground handling characteristics . you're right , i didn't break in my weed wacker!! however i didn't spend $3500 + on it either !!! LOL .

gr8 , good to hear from you. that fuse looks nice . where is the horizontal stab ? am i missing something here? is that a tf kit? if you've got any good tips you'd like to share on glassing don't be shy . this will be my fist time as well so please let us know how its going .


later fellas ,

b