BankYank

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Not wanting to take over the other thread i think i need to start my own so hear go's
Wendels plans are pretty good not very scale in allot of areas tho and he leaves enough information off his plans that some liberties and imagination are needed but thats good for the builder really. Anyone with any questions or comments please post as im sure i'll need some help someplace and maybe offer some[8D]
Pis 1 shows the stab after framing up
Pic 2 shows it in a little better detail
Pic 3 Shows the balance tab closeup. On the plans it does not show this but i felt i needed to add a balsa block in there so there is enough material to make a nice rounded leading edge to it.

BankYank

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Here is what the Stab/Elevators look like after sheeting and some sanding.

BankYank

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On the plans for the rudder ribs Wendell did not provide any tabs to help with alignment.
SOOOO using the ribs provided in my kit i tried for about 3 hours to get it all straight and true but could not do it.VERY FRUSTRATING!!
SO. Here is what i ended up doing and solved all my problems on the fin/rudder.
Here you can see where i made a line 3/4 inch below the rib center on all ribs. Then i took about 20 minutes and made all new ribs.

BankYank

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Here is what it looks like at this point. I still need to bevel the rudder hinge line, Then add the tip block and last will be the ever so famous "sand to shape"
Pat

BankYank

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Question for some one.
On the fuse. The inner doubler(FB) is made out of 1/4in thick balsa. To save a little weight im thinking i could use 1/8in light ply. From what i can tell on the plans it would not be a problem but im not sure?????????
Pat

Flying Arrow

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BankYank,
I was wondering about your building progress. I thought about keeping this thread a live by posting some pics. The kit was laser cut by my friend Adel, did a great job.

sebo

Are you cutting your own kit or did you have a kit cutter do it?

BankYank

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Hey::: I do plan on keeping the build going

:edit:

BUT WAIT!!! there is ANOTHER problem causing another delay.
Maybe someone has ran into this and can help. I HOPE so!!! Lets take former F9B as an example. If i put it on the fuse (FA) where the plans say to it is about 1/8in to short and will leave a gap between F9B and F9C. The fuse side FA matches the plans and F9B matches the plans so i have no idea whats not right now. Anyone have an idea????
Pat

BankYank

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Sooooo I sent an email to Wendell and he pretty much told me the plans are off a little on some parts and it is up to the builder to make adjustments.
So keep this in mind as your building.
Pat

Flying Arrow

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Sebo,
Yes we take the mesurements from the plan and feeds it to auto cad then the laser machine cut the palsa, refer to the pics above.

Bank Yank,

If you are welling to send us the palsa to Saudi Arabia, we will be happy to cut the kit for you for free. You pay for the shipping though. The palsa here is very expensive. If you can let us know of any variation to the plan we are willing to make all the changes.

Regards

sebo

Thanks for the offer Flying Arrow, I was just being inquisitive about your aircraft since the plans and cutting didn't quite match. Wendell seems to have answered that.
Currently I have two planes that have already been cut for me and are waiting to be built. I don't know what I would do with another one!

Flying Arrow

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Agree with you in terms of time it just fly. This is the second kit that we are building and we try to learn fo any corrections. It is great to keep listing these corrections in this thread so others can benefit.
Regards

BankYank

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Update time everyone.
Flying Arrow: Thanks for the offer. Probably the best one i have ever had but alas i allready have this one cut and started so i have to get through it.
Here is a pic of what im talking about for parts fit.
The fuse sides are on the lines good and proper. Now F1C also matches the plan template,,,BUT when you try to match it up to the fuse it is to short as you can see from side to side. The only thing i can really think of to fix this is glue it on and add some balsa to each side then sand to shape. There are several like this and it's just a PITA!!!!!!

BankYank

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Here is a shot of the top and looking down the inside Nothing special

BankYank

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Its hard to realise how big these planes are some times so here are a couple pic's that should help

BankYank

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Here is a shot showing the bottom with the stringers.

BankYank

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Well i could not help it i had to sit the Rudder/stab on it. I think i also have all the stringers ran but some parts of the plan are not really all that clear. If any one sees something wrong PLEASE say something
Also on former F5A there are cut out's but for the life of me i can seem to find what goes there. There is still some work to do on the fuse but it should be sheeted this week and the last thing will be adding the inside fuse doubler F2A.

ADELYAHYA

BankYank,

Hi this ios Adel, Flying Arrow team mate, I think what you ment is FB is the inside doubler. I do recomend to make a grove for the 1/8 music wire before you add it to the fus.

F16, I soak it in a hot water then I put between nails that replicate the same pattren of the drwings.

F15, make sure that you add 2mm at the front to get the positive 1 degree that is mentioned in the plan.

F5A, I agree with you you just need the center channel for the F16.

F9B and F8B are shorter and the need to be longer for sheeting.

The front palsa strings that goes at the top of the fus behined the fire wall can be bent by hot water rather than cuting them and gluing them.

F14 music wire needs to be inserted 1/2 inch in the F14, otherwise it doesn't make sense.

BankYank

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Ah yes i did mean FB. Actually i was thinking i could make FB(1/4in balsa)(About 8mm)out of 1/8in light ply(about 4mm). It would be stronger and a little bit lighter. If i could figure out how to make the window area stronger i think you could do away with FB as the plane is built like a tank anyway.
Here is what im thinking
The fuse FA wood grain is ran horizontal. Now take some 3/32(about2mm) balsa and run the grain vertical and put it on the outside of FA and use polyurethane glue. From the wing saddle to about 1/2 way down the FA. Now on the inside you could make 4 small formers for the wire's to attach to that run from top to bottom. Also make a small fuse doubler from F1 to F2 to give the firewall more to attach to.
It looks to me that the window area is the weak part of the design but this should make it strong enough. I also think you could be losing up to a pound of weight(less wood and glue).

My F16 is already shaped and mounted.

F15. I was wondering how much to add to the wing saddle to get 1deg positive. Thanks!

I did not have to cut the front stringers there bowed around the formers. The two on each side near the top are the only ones cut and it was just quicker and easier to do it that way.

On the wing center section would it be easier to build both wings first then slide them together with F15/F14 and set them on the fuse.
then align everything and tack glue F14/F15 in place. Perfect alignment but is there a better way?

Also i plan on sheeting the bottom first to keep the fuse straight(still kinda wobble) Then i can add lightning holes from about F5 back. Less weight back there adds up to ALLOT less needed to the front for balance.
Pat

ADELYAHYA

for the sliding the wings and thene glue to the center section i can't think of a better idea, i will do that for the next kit. thanks
hevey tail is one problem with this model , i'm planing to install the fuji 60 , i think it will help for balance

BankYank

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Im using a G62.
How much weight did you add on the last one you built and what engine did you have in it?.
I should be starting the wing's this weekend. Did you find anything with the wing plan that needs fixed?
I do plan on making my flaps a little more scale looking then the plan shows and should make the wing look allot better.
Pat

ADELYAHYA

G62 what i ment,
I used MVVS 58IRS for the first model., I needed about 500 grams of wight on the fire wall to balance.
I finish the model with outopaint .
For the wing I just made a head light as in the original scale in the med. lift wing ( 9v flash light) . looks good to me.
after i sheeted the flaps as in the plan,i glued square 1/16 just befor the final coat of paint.
the model was to havey almost 35 lbs,
good luck to u

BankYank

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Im trying to bring mine in at around 25 pounds but i dunno if i can.
It looks to me the wing on the model tapers on the top and bottom from the last W1 out to W8. I think the wing is flat on the bottom of the real thing. Anyone have a Pic of the wings from head on?
Pat

sebo

Mine came out to a little more than 35 pounds (I have batteries for lights, glow plugs, and two receiver batteries). I glassed the plane and used auto paint also. These things add weight.
There is a lot of wing area. It should still fly well.
The reason that the plans say it comes out to 27 pounds is because the wings aren't supposed to be sheeted and it is supposed to be covered with Monokote. It isn't to be glassed at all. Glass and paint add considerable weight to the plane.
Good Luck
Ron

BankYank

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Yes i'll be sheeting my complete wing also. I have just about finished up glassing and painting my first plane.TFGS P-47. Now that i have done it once i can say what a PITA. I'll be Monokoting the 182.
SOOOOO back to the wing.
Sense the wing is built with the rib jig tabs flat on the table and you have sheeted the top so it's done. How have you sheeted the bottom without twisting it?
Did you add washout? How much? The plans make no mention at all about this.

Im thinking i will need to make 2 jigs, One for the root and one for the tip to hold it flat. Im also thinking about 2deg washout.
Pat