Francis L M

oooops 9.9Kg = 21.82lb

Francis L M

I have decided to modify the two bottom wings,

I did not like the way the manufacturer decided to hold them together.
They state in the manual to place a small self tap screw, through the wing into the wing tube.
You can see it in P10 in the manual.
http://www.theworldmodels.com/para/i...ionManuals.php
Don’t like the idea.

Francis L M

I placed the tube into the wing then I put the wing in its place in the fuselage,
I marked a hole from the inside of the fuselage and I drilled a pilot hole,
this gave me a starting point to drill the rib on the wing.

By cutting into the wing at the edge just before the end rib,
I did a small hole just to get the blind nut through,
by having the pilot hole predrilled I can now drilled a 5mil hole,
and then it was just a case of gluing the blind nut through the 5mil hole.

Francis L M

Here you have more pictures

Francis L M

I then placed the wing back to the fuselage and tested the fitting, A.OK.
After the testing I placed at the underside of the fuselage balsa strips,
So when I start with the covering of the model I can leave this slots uncovered to access the M5 screws.

Francis L M

Well going back to the firewall.

First off all I drilled holes off M2 all around the firewall to pin it up,

By getting the cloth of Fiberglas I made a template of the front of the firewall.
And all around to do the re-enforcement

Francis L M

Then I went and epoxy all the inside off the engine box, the outside with 30 Min
Z-Epoxy.
I added to the outside of the engine box a good amount off the 30min all around the surfaces.

Francis L M

After all the epoxy has been dried, I covered the model and sprayed all with fuel proof
Paint to finish off the work.
Then it’s just a mutter to start putting all the firewall components back together.
Engine exhaust and CDI

Francis L M

Again I have decided to change the way to fix the top wing better and much easyer to put together.

I made two pieces out of light ply to the same shape of the aerofoil of the top wing.

Francis L M

I made two pieces out of light ply to the same shape of the aerofoil of the top wing.

After marking out the templates i then went and dry fitted the ply to the two wings.
Then I drilled the two ply with a M5 drill bit, this will be more than sufficient to hold the two
Wing together.

Francis L M

I placed the two pieces of ply together to and added a spacer of 5mil to compensate for the aluminium bracket,
by mixing some 5 Mini epoxy I added the glue to the two wings and the ply,
then I carefully placed the two pieces of ply to each end of the wings with the aluminium tube and bracket.
After the epoxy was completely dry I then drilled three holes of M2,
then I added pins to strengthen the ply to the wing rib don’t think It needs it just in case.
I am more than satisfied with this job.

Francis L M

I have more or less done the same job to the tail plain.

like i sed before just did not like the way they are fixing the tail plane with just a selftap screw.
maybe its ok but not for me.

Francis L M

More pictures

Francis L M

two more

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Francis, you are to be complimented for your customization! Stab and wing retention methods/rework looks pretty substantial, and probably will be fine. Good methods, I think.
After reviewing the manual, with it's cautions about NOT using the CA/mylar hinges, and notes to "replace with metal hinges and epoxy", I will definitely be installing the large Dubro hinges.
The manual looks pretty good, and seems to provide details that will help.

On the Aeroworks support thread, several users report that the 5.5" is too nose heavy, and they balanced/flew best at 6.5" aft of top wing leading edge. Any thoughts on that?

I also plan on using turnbuckle pushrods/titatnium for the all the surfaces. Hitec 5955's all round, single on rudder. Do you think ONE 5955 on 6v on the rudder will be enough for that?

raimondi

That's a great choise of an engine for that model,I have one with the same engine and it's balistic, with the graph tech gear and CF spiner it came out to 21.8 pounds. I think thi plane is realy for an 80cc not a 100cc, it's to small for 100 cc. that plane is a 3D beast. Best harrier ever!!!

Francis L M

Hi Bob

Thanks for the complement.

I mainly place this forum because i did not see any post on the 33%Ultimate,
And I hoped for people to give some input on the mutter.

Also talking about the CG I have a bit of concern as I also think
That 5.5 is a bit to far forward the thing is I have not seen the ultimate flying
Os I think I will be keeping the CG by the book.
Hope I can get more info in this mutter.

Francis L M

On the servos i am using the 2 X JR8411 on the rudder on pull pull,
I think this is mutter of taste the JR have 11kg torque
On 5 sell you get 175 in/oz!!! Speed is .08 for 60degrees.
I would say more than enough power the model will be approximately
11.500kg flying weight.
The ultimate dose not requires much rudder input to hold the knife edge.

On the Elevators I am using 2 X JR8511.
And on the throttle i am using 1X DS811.same on the choke.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Been very quiet; I've been working on mine, found the lower wing tube socket mis-located in the FUSE, so the right wing panel wouldn't insert. Got that fixed. Nearly impossible to get some of those plywood parts inside the nose for the engine box, needed hands much smaller than mine, but got it done.

Hinges....well.... there are a hell of a lot of em....I am replacing the CA hinges with DuBro Heavy Duty flat hinges, and that wouldn't have been possible without a GReat Planes Hinge Slotting machine, let me tell you. There are 38 hinges going into this monster. Sure am happy polyurethane glue was invented.

Would like to know how you're supposed to drill the interplane struts and their attaching brackets? Anyone done that? Have to admit the pins with turnbuckles under tension is a pretty slick engineered approach, but one sure better get the holes right. ANY ideas?

The fuse cabane assembly is very stout, and mine lined up perfectly. Since I didn't have hardware in my kit, I opted to use US hardware all round, so all that was done with #6 socket head screws, and they really fit perfectly, so alignment was easy.

My DL 100 arrives today, but I'm still a ways from being ready for that.

Francis L M

Hi
Here you have some pictures of the installation of the pull pull
With the two servos they are both JR 8411 plenty of power.

Francis L M

I had the same problem as you with the struts, I put together the top and bottom wing
And placed the two wooden spacer supplied by World models to align the top and bottom wing, I realised that the wood aligning tool were a bit to high and the struts
Did not meet the attachment point on the wings they seemed a bit too short.

To solve this problem I had to slightly offset the struts so it would lower the wing,
I then placed the struts on its proper position and hold it with a pair of clamps, with a M6 drill bit I carefully marked the holes (by hand not with the drill) on the struts as the M6 Bit is exactly the same hole diameter.

Francis L M

Well here you can see the way I have installed the stringers as I had the same
Problem as you I did not like the way they where using the turnbuckles.
I have made a simple but effective system for the stringers, I bought 4 jubilee clips
And cut them about ½ inch from the screw and also bought I small chain and I cut out for rings from the chain and I silver welled them to the end of the screw part of the jubilee clip problem solved, I put together the plane again and it was just a mutter off measuring the cnc wirer.

A little tip on the wirer,
Do not use the wirer from the kit as it tends to brake in flight.
I bought from my local fishing shop a 10mtr roll off 120pond cnc fishing line which comes with it’s own plastic coating and metal crimps supper I mite add.
I also used the same wirer for my Pull Pull system works great.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Very, VERY nice innovative idea!!!!!! I know you won't mind if I copy it???
As designed, the turnbuckles have to be loosened to permit installation of the clips/clevis pins each time, so it seems that the intended design is to re-tighten the turnbuckles every time you assemble the plane. If that is right.... (and I do not know if it is or not).... HOW in the world do you keep the turnbuckles tight during flying? Aren't those things going to loosen up, even if under tension??

The steel/plastic coated fishing line is the ONLY way to go... good job! I used the stock black wire that came, and made my own crimp tubes out of 1/2" pieces of 1/8" OD brass tube. As hard as that stuff was to crimp, I think it will hold up okay. Wish there were more builders of this plane who would post info about it. This turnbuckle deal really leaves me cold.

On the plus side, the plane went together pretty well, and although it isn't my most perfect alignment ever, it's "close enough". Some pics of my install of stuff.

extra-nut

Hey Bob, just put a small ziptie or coated wire loop, through the loop at the end of the flying wire and the hairpin. That way at least it can't back off a complete round in flight, plus you won't be looking for your hairpins.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Hey!!! 'Bout time you surfaced.....good idea on locking the turnbuckle. Have to figure out how to do that, turnbuckle knuckle has very small hole in it, less than a 1/16", for sure.

Checkout the DL 100 thread...holler at me later on. Figured you wouldn't be out in the humidity.