I need some guidance regarding a safe way to start a Moki 2.10 glow engine.

One of my friends recently sold me his Midwest Extra 300XS - beautiful airplane - with this engine on it. Thing is, I have never owned a plane this large! My Dad and I started flying R/C back in the '70s, and about the biggest plane I have ever had was a .90 size.

I have always been pretty careful about starting my planes, having seen the result of bare hand prop flipping over the years. I usually use an electric starter, and occasionally a chicken stick. I'm guessing, though, that my little starter isn't going to cut it with the big engine. In talking to the other fellows at the field, most of them will put on a work glove, pull the engine through a couple of times to prime it, and flip the prop by hand.

Honestly, I'm really not comfortable doing that. I'd like to get a stronger starter, but I'm pretty much broke as far as more hobby spending goes for a while.

Any suggestions? How do you get your big engines started?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=starter+stick

Kevin, I've been running large Mokis for years and they are really easy to hand start if you use the right technique.

First off, never EVER flip a large Moki over like you would a 40 - 60 glow engine if you want to keep all your fingers attached!

These engine like to start wet, so make sure to squirt a little fuel into the carb for the first start of the day.

Now turn the engine over a few times with NO CURRENT ATTACHED TO GLOW PLUG.

The "secret" to starting these engines is to back flip them. This does NOT mean you will simply flip it OVER in the opposite direction of rotation. Never EVER try to flip a large glow engine THROUGH compression.

The proper back flipping technique means you BOUNCE the engine off the compression. Picture this: as the engine is flipped clockwise TOWARDS compression, it will fire and bounce back in the "right" direction (counter clockwise). If the engine is properly primed, bouncing it OFF compression clockwise will usually get it running in 1 or 2 tries. Remember not EVER to flip it THROUGH compression, because the kick back can be vicious - you are only bouncing it off compression.

It really helps to have the prop set so that it comes on to compression (clockwise) at around the 5 o'clock position. Use a heavy glove or chicken stick until you get the hang of it.

Hope this helps.

my 2.10 used to flip start by hand. after some lean runs (don't use a filler valve) i now have to use a starter. i have two 12 volt batteries in sequence that spins my hobbico 180 starter with plenty of speed and torque for the 2.10. although i really need to get the large cone adapter so there will be less slippage on the spinner.

david

i use a sulivan model 4 starter, for my moki 2.10 12v is plenty, for large gas engines i use 24 v with it

my dad hand starts most if not all his glow engines in the manner LuvBipes describes. With one exception. he does it by holding the spinner and just 1 of 2 fingers on the prop. and the action he uses forces his hand to pull away from the prop not go in towards it. its very hard to describe maybe need to get a video of him doing it (let me know if you want 1 might be able to get in to help) to be able to show you how hes does it. his technique works very well on his motors down to 61 and will normal try a couple of flicks on his 40s before using the starter.

Check this out. One of the guys in my club designed it - it works great and is safe- you are nowhere near the prop when you start:

http://www.reganspace.com/Planes/index_plane.html

click on "smarter starter" at top of the page.

There's also a video showing how it is used at bottom of page.

Once I learned the back bump method luvbipes described I started leaving my starter at home. My os 1.6 will fire on the very first back flip usualy as long as it was primed properly first. It really is a great easy way to start them. I use a chicken stick, like you I am very sketchy about putting my hands in, on, or near the prop

I gotta say, I think that "Smarter Starter" is one cool contraption! I might build one just to have it when I need the attention at the club field!

It may well be the perfect solution to the problem that never existed ;-)

Wow - Thanks to all of you! This is my first time posting to RCU. It is obviously a place to find a deep well of modeling knowledge, and I really appreciate the thoughtful replies. I knew there had to be a better way than pulling a sharp 20" carbon fiber prop with my fingers.

interesting subject
I have a fairly new tiger 4500, unfortunatly it does not respond well to a back flip, I think this maybe due to it still being a little tight ?
were as my 3000 back starts v easily this way
I have a sullivan dynatron on 24 volts with the big hub fitted, that 'just' does the job, although this is a struggle, due to this starter not being geared, has anyone got any better way ?
has anyone tried the starter bracket from miller r/c ?