gordon_mcln

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Misterbill,

Where did you source the interior, over head (left hand side) cabin details you posted on the other build thread....Not sure if you fabricated these yourself, and if so how?

Thanks,

Gordon

RcerMike

Greetings Frequent Flier.............I have seen a 270 Saito on a Nelitz Cub fly in a very scale fashion. I am in the process of building the Nelitz Cub which I have a Saito 300 T-TDP for. This same engine has powered a 34 lb. BUSA Pup with power to spare. I wouldn't hesitate to use your Saito on the Cub. The posts on this site have been very helpful over the last few years in the building process of my Cub. The landing gear is almost complete, and the fuselage truss is getting started. Will need to build the jig for it soon. I still have plenty of tears from the 150.00 for the silver rod I have invested in!..............thanks..............Mike

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

I went to my Plumbing Supply and bought silver solder sticks that were 24" long and about 1/8" wide for just a few dollars. They work great and are very strong. It is the Silver Solder that I use to solder AC lines. Get the flux and solder away. I think that they are 85% silver.

gordon_mcln

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How have you guys cut the groove on the elevator/stabilizer. The plans show one side of the dowel cut flat, with a groove for 1/16th inch plywood....I'm not sure how to make that cut...Any thoughts would be helpfuk...

Thanks guys....

Gordon

Donairplane

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Pulled this post due to safety concerns on a table saw.
Will post a safer way later. Don.

gordon_mcln

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Don...Great idea....Just picked up a thin kerf saw blade this afternoon and will follow your lead on this.

Thanks. Gordon

misterbill

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Hi Gordon - while you're at it, you might want to consider dealing with the wing TE's a little differently to the way Bob did them.

Attached is a pic of what I did on mine, made the TE's pretty bullet proof.

Basically it's a 1/16 ply piece that extends all the way to the TE (as opposed to merely being a 'key'), and then is sandwiched between two appropriate balsa strips, which are finally shaped to follow the rib profile. It's much stronger and non-warp prone.

Cheers,
Mike

gordon_mcln

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Mike...Sounds like a good idea that will strengthen the entire trailing edge....I'll be adding this to my list of tips....Thanks!

Donairplane

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For those building Bob Nelitz cub to plan. Here is a SAFE way to cut the flat and groove the dowel on a table saw.
cut 1/4" dado (slot) in jig board. install dowel and cut flat per plan. Reset fence and blade to cut 1/6" groove. Matsu****a makes 1/6" thin blade.

SunDevilPilot

Is the dowel spot glued / tacked to the piece of wood?

The first milling operation makes me nervous. The idea of the saw kicking back the dowel out of the wood block rings in my head. Bow and arrow kind of action.

A nice hand place would also work in your setup for the first operation.

The second operation seems less risky because you are pushing down on the wood.

SunDevilPilot

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

I'd just glue a little block in the rear of the grove of the push block so the dowel can't slide back. Just a suggestion.

Donairplane

My Feedback: (3)

The dowel fits tight in the groove and is three feet long, plenty of friction. I tap the dowel in and pry the dowel out with a screw driver.
Your cut is very lite nothing moves. Just did 10 dowels no problem.

Don.

gordon_mcln

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Don -

THanks for your guidance and for posting these photos....I like the approach.

Gordon

misterbill

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How I did it, works perfectly.

Mike

dhal22

Don, reading this thread again. Just got a set of Nelitz plans given to me.

1bruno

so what is the best engine to put in my 1/3 Bob Nelitz cub? I was thinking DLE or DA 85?

misterbill

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Bob flew his the way that full size J3's fly on a Quadra 35, I put a Zenoah G45 in mine. Depends on how you want to fly, and if you don't want the engine sticking out...

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

I think the 50cc to 60cc is enough for this plane it will be more than scale performance. I have a 61cc twin gas engine & a Satio 50cc twin for mine. I'm using one or the other.. I think the Satio sounds the Best. You can't really beat that 4-Stroke purr. I do know some guys that put 100cc twins in them for use a s a glider tow plane. But they can putt around at quarter throttle when not towing.

malitape

My Feedback: (213)

Depending on how strong your build is, consider the vibrations of gassers. DLE makes a nice affordable twin 60. If it is anything like the twin 40, you will not go back to single cylinder gassers. Vibations on the 40 are almost non existing. In the long run, that is a factor.

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

I bought the DLE 61 Gaser I heard they were really smooth. But I also have 2 Saito 50cc twins. I guess I'll have to run both of them and decide. I also sell 1/3 scale Champ kits so I'll use one in that plane also. I just got to finish moving and unpacking so I can get back to the build table.

1bruno

Thanks everyone, I want the engine to fit inside the cowl so I can add on the dummy engines on both sides. I don't know how heavy this will be so after I cover it with Poly Fiber I will see what the weight it then decide. Since the engine mounts outside I don't have to decided right now.

evarnad

Misterbill I'm at a point where I'm balancing my Cub. There are two C/G positions on the plan, do you happen to remember where your plane balanced out. Also did you considered it balanced when the elevator was level with the ground. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Wayne

misterbill

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Wayne, long while back now, but if my memory serves me correctly, it balanced somewhere in the middle of the CG range indicated - and yes. if the stab is horizontal to the ground, that is the flying attitude, and where I would consider it balanced. Mike

evarnad

Thanks Mister bill for the information again.
Happy flying
Wayne

claudbosc

Hello everybody.
I wanted to ask you if anyone has DXF or DWG Plans.
Kit Cutters unfortunately has closed and I can not find anyone who can cut the pieces.