Hardware question - HD 4/40 clevis?
#1
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Had an inflight clevis failure on my ailerons the other day, actually both of them(Quadra 42/Great Planes Giant Super Sportster). They were supplied with the ARF. Failure led to loss of ailerons (another story). In the end, plane not badly damaged. I'm repairing, but I want to do it right this time. No more solder on here. Lesson learned. New country for me though. I've had other larger planes, but nothing this heavy/fast or failures like this. These control rods are only about 5" long or so. Can I stay with the 4/40 piano wire, but this time maybe threaded on both ends? What is everyone else using?
I was looking at the HD 4/40 nylon Hayes:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXK848&P=K
and ran across what appear to be the very similar Dubro that use the locking clips:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXWH34&P=K
Is one type superior, won't it make any difference one vs. the other, or should I be looking at something else entirely?
Thanks much for any suggestions/ideas! -Al
I was looking at the HD 4/40 nylon Hayes:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXK848&P=K
and ran across what appear to be the very similar Dubro that use the locking clips:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXWH34&P=K
Is one type superior, won't it make any difference one vs. the other, or should I be looking at something else entirely?
Thanks much for any suggestions/ideas! -Al
#2

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From: Roseville,
CA
This is what I recommend.
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMBALLLINKR.html
Be sure to use an aluminum arm on your servo and some kind of compatible HD horn on the control surface.
You will find that there is zero slop in the linkage. You will really be able to feel the planes improved responsiveness.
<a href="http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMBALLLINKR.html">
<br type="_moz" /></a>
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMBALLLINKR.html
Be sure to use an aluminum arm on your servo and some kind of compatible HD horn on the control surface.
You will find that there is zero slop in the linkage. You will really be able to feel the planes improved responsiveness.
<a href="http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMBALLLINKR.html">
<br type="_moz" /></a>
#4
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From: An Iceburg in, ANTARCTICA
I like to use the Hangar 9 titanium pro links; http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=122EAB6D131C
With Dubro kwik links on one end; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH35&P=7
and Sullivan clevises on the other end; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRU49&P=7
This setup is solid and allows precise adjustment due to the pro link.
With Dubro kwik links on one end; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH35&P=7
and Sullivan clevises on the other end; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRU49&P=7
This setup is solid and allows precise adjustment due to the pro link.
#5

My Feedback: (10)
ahicks,
I use the Dubro 4-40 Safety Lock Kwik Link on the control horn and Dubro HD 4-40 ball links on the servo end. I use a 4-40 all thread rod and incapulated it with a Mid West carbon fiber tube I get a the LHS. I uses 4-40 nuts to secure the carbon fiber tube in place. This is the way the manual tells you to set up your control linkage on a Wild Hare plane. It's kinda the poor mans way of doing it because it's so cheap but just as strong as any other.
I use the Dubro 4-40 Safety Lock Kwik Link on the control horn and Dubro HD 4-40 ball links on the servo end. I use a 4-40 all thread rod and incapulated it with a Mid West carbon fiber tube I get a the LHS. I uses 4-40 nuts to secure the carbon fiber tube in place. This is the way the manual tells you to set up your control linkage on a Wild Hare plane. It's kinda the poor mans way of doing it because it's so cheap but just as strong as any other.



