djmarch

I want to use the following setup for my flight power system on my Futaba 7C 2.4 ghz. for my 30% Extra using 5 Hitec 7955's and a throttle servo.
Will be using 2x A123's for Rx and one 2000 NIMH for Ignition.

How can I best achieve the following?

- a Votlmagic battery monitor plug in (Hangtime Hobbies)
- an Opti Kill switch for throttle
- a redundant Rx system (each plugged into the Rx seperately)

Is this too much for a 7 channel system?
I was planning on Y's but not sure where best to use them.

thanks in advance

SENZA

I a firm believer in the K.I.S.S method... ya id have to say that is very much over kill! get rid of the volt meter put it on the shelf.shed the other two battery's use one a123 batt and one receiver if i am "understanding you correctly". and call it good. thats what i have been flying with with great success for the last few years. some people like to use two batts for receiver but thats their preference. if i am not mistaken futaba has its own kill switch for idle shut down kill within the radio allowing you to chose a switch of your choice? but the additional kill is for your electrical and is not a bad idea I wouldn't fly with out it!.... I use a [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEF.html]IBEF[/link]and i fly consecutively and check and charge my plane every third flight or so

djmarch

thanks Senza, I'm going to give this some serious thought.
I didn't know a system like this existed.

Mikecam

I have your setup in my 88" EF Yak. The Voltmagic is a great product, people confuse them with a regular volt watch which it is not. You can set it to your application (20 different battery configurations) and it will show any glitches, fail safes and low voltage situations. You need to have it on it's own switch so you can program it. I have the two A123 on my receiver and a 1950 nimh on my ignition. I just plug my separate batteries and separate switches into different channels. I run a Futaba 10c with the 14 channel receiver so I don't have your problem. There are fellows at my field that run 105" 3d planes with the 7c and use a opti kill switch so I think it can be done. I have the 7955 and program them with the HPP-21. You can program which direction you want the servo's to run. Would help with the Y on the elevator. You would also have to Y your batteries into any one of the other channels. Other then Channel 2 as it has a Y already. So Channel # 3 and 5 or 7. I have the DLE 55 on my Yak and she still powers out fine. I ran my smoke pump off my ignition battery to save a battery for it. I like the 2 battery, 2 switches redundancy with out the added complications of a power expander. The voltmagic has showed me in about 20 flights that I have never had a low voltage situation and that's with throwing the Yak around pretty good. NOBS has some good info. I went with there cellpro multi 4 so I balance charge thru one charge jack built into the switch. Only have to take out the white wire on the switch harness going to the receiver. Look at the A123 FAQ to see the simple setup. No balance jacks that way. Good luck and keep researching as I'm no expert and could have very easily made a mistake. I have a 7c and knowing the EF Yak was coming I opted for the purchase of the 10c. It would be a few y's in there. I don't have the experience or knowledge to tell you it would work or would not. I would research it more and see if having Y's on 3 different channels could be a problem. I went with the 10 c that came with the 14 channel 6014HS. For less then $700 it is a nice radio and you could use the 14 channel receiver that comes with it. As it is $250 your getting the radio for only $450, that is what I told my wife anyway. I set it up using channels 1 thru 6 with digitals and using the high speed mode. Does it make a difference, could not tell you.

I'm no expert but here goes,
1 AiL 1
2 Elev. use a Y and program the one servo to run counter clockwise ( don't need a reversing Y that way)
3 throttle
4 rudder
5 opti engine kill
6 AIL #2 (use Flaprn function on Page 42 7C manual)
7 Voltmagic channel (attach to a two position switch to program)

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...d_id=HITHPP-21 programmer $26

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=FUT10CAG Radio
http://www.greathobbies.com/producti..._id=FUTR6014FS Receiver older FS the new 6014HS was $249 the last time I looked (wasn't there this time)

dmurf

Hi djmarch, I am running a 29% 50cc YAK on a Futaba 7C 2.4 ghz. Here is how I set it up and it works super.
1 smart fly super reg, 3 Fromeco 2600 Lithium Ion batterys, 1 Engel Kill switch Part No. EM50 , 6 Hitec servos

Channel 1 & 6 Aileron's [2 Hitec servos one into each channel]
Channel 2 & 5 Elevator's [2 Hitec servos one into each channel]
Channel 3 Throttle + Y lead from Smart fly regulator + Fromeco 2600 Lithium Ion http://www.fromeco.org/Products/01FR...2/Default.aspx
Channel 4 Rudder + Y lead from Smart fly regulator + Fromeco 2600 Lithium Ion http://www.fromeco.org/Products/01FR...2/Default.aspx
Channel 7 Ignition Engel Kill switch Part No. EM50 http://www.engelmt.de/en/index.php: on switch A + Fromeco 2600 Lithium Ion for Ignition

Here is a link to the smart http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Regulator/pic6.htm super reg

Regards
Damien

SENZA

djmarch , Here's how my set up goes , I am flying a 28% wildhare edge and my set goes like this,i did forget to mention i am using a [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/QEQII.html]smartfly equalizer II[/link] on my elevators. I agree with both these guys in their set ups i have done them both! and thats fine because thats what i was and they are comfortable with and it works for them.but i wanted to shed the weight and time involved with its style system and less time worrying and more time flying! as time goes on I believe that style set up is going to go away and 123s will take over.no regs, less wiring, and switches,not too mention less $$$$$ spent on products that will be sitting on the shelf . but its your choice only you can do what feels comfortable for you. and ad an additional battery to the system if thats what makes you feel better!

ch 1 aileron
ch 2 elevators with smartfly eq II
ch 3 throttle
ch 4 rudder
ch 5 added switch with ignition kill sw
ch 6 aileron
ch 7 smoke set up or add battery with sw

all my switches are MPI HD 2 sw in all one with deans connector and the other lead from the battery for my ignition


PS MPI VOLTAGE REGULATORS FOR SALE or could be used as wheel chalks "o'boy i am going to get yelled at"

gboulton

My Feedback: (15)

I'll toss mine out here as well, just to give you some alternatives to think about. Nothing says mine's better/worse than anything mentioned so far, but it is a bit different. This is in a WildHare 102" Edge with > 100 flights on it now.

On a Spektrum DX7 :

2 2600MaH 2S LiPo for Rx, another for Ignition.
Each Rx batt into a RadioSouth 10A Regulator/SafeSwitch combo (6V) http://www.radiosouthrc.com/safe_switch.htm
Output from regulators combined in parallel, for a single line feeding the EC3 input of an AR7100R Rx http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...odID=SPMAR7100
2 Aileron servos (R & L) into Smartfly Equalizer II http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Eq.../equalizer.htm
2 Elevator servos (R & L) into Smartfly Equalizer II
1 Rudder servo
Choke, Throttle, Smoke

All primary control surface servos are 7955TGs

Obviously, you'll run a different Rx, so not sure about the power input on your side of things. But there's a different way of going about the power distribution and mixing.

djmarch

Options, options.....
I really have to think on this one however, I am partial to not using regulators/expanders/additiinal wiring.
Mikecam, I like your setup and will indeed consider a 10 channel soon but in the interim I will experiment with using the 7c as you suggested.
I may start by using the Opti Kill switch first and then add the voltmagic after some successful flights.
I do believe all you guys are right re; the A123 shift. Charging in fifteen minutes is great while keeping track of MAH going back into the pack.
I agree my setup is a bit heavier then is probably needed but once I get a little more comfortable with my setup I may reduce the weight by eliminating a battery. Thank you all for your input,it has clearified some issues for me.