Kadet Senior ARF
05-10-2020, 08:31 AM
#1
Kadet Senior ARF
What would be a good electric motor/ESC/battery setup for the previous-generation Sig Kadet Senior ARF? This version has a nose wheel and was not prepped from Sig for electric motor use, unlike the current Senior ARF which is a taildragger and has a removable hatch for battery access. I am looking to maximum flight time and doing basic training. No need for aerobatic performance.
09-24-2020, 12:15 PM
#2
My Feedback: (6)
I can't believe nobody's answered this question.
So here goes: Figure on using a 5S pack, no need to go 6S. A 41mm motor such as a Cobra 4120/18-540KV motor or 4130/12- 540 KV, the difference is size and power available. A 540KV motor seems to be about right with a 5S pack and 13-14" prop. You will need an 80A ESC.
Your version sounds like the early production meant for glow. You're going to have to make a battery hatch and platform on the bottom of the fuse, behind the firewall. It's going to be a bit of a PITA but it's the only way to do it. This is what I had to do. I also installed a safety arming switch/plug for good measure. I am currently working on what appears to be the same plane. You may be able to mount the ESC inside the cowl for air movement.
The newer versions made allowances for electric conversions. There were three different versions of the Senior ARF by way of construction.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
cheers and good luck
So here goes: Figure on using a 5S pack, no need to go 6S. A 41mm motor such as a Cobra 4120/18-540KV motor or 4130/12- 540 KV, the difference is size and power available. A 540KV motor seems to be about right with a 5S pack and 13-14" prop. You will need an 80A ESC.
Your version sounds like the early production meant for glow. You're going to have to make a battery hatch and platform on the bottom of the fuse, behind the firewall. It's going to be a bit of a PITA but it's the only way to do it. This is what I had to do. I also installed a safety arming switch/plug for good measure. I am currently working on what appears to be the same plane. You may be able to mount the ESC inside the cowl for air movement.
The newer versions made allowances for electric conversions. There were three different versions of the Senior ARF by way of construction.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
cheers and good luck
09-24-2020, 01:01 PM
#3
What would be a good electric motor/ESC/battery setup for the previous-generation Sig Kadet Senior ARF? This version has a nose wheel and was not prepped from Sig for electric motor use, unlike the current Senior ARF which is a taildragger and has a removable hatch for battery access. I am looking to maximum flight time and doing basic training. No need for aerobatic performance.
Thanks!
01-02-2021, 08:16 AM
#5
My Feedback: (6)
That looks like the original versions. Version number two included electric power and had a large hatch on the bottom of the plane for a battery pack. The latest version uses a top hatch just aft of the firewall. All three version are constructed a bit differently. I've seen all three versions as an estate I helped liquidate contained all three versions.
All three were bought by our club members and the oldest version had been converted to electric but very poorly executed. A top hatch was poorly made, the battery compartment was very small so I had to close that in again and create a new hatch on the bottom of the plane, installed a battery tray and created a removable hatch cover. This looks like the only way to do this unless you want to spend some time modifying the plane for a top hatch. It's not all that difficult. I removed a portion of the bottom of the plane just behind the fire wall. I then glued(epoxy) in a couple bass wood sticks to support the battery tray and then the tray itself. I added a hook and loop strap along with some Velcro to hold the battery pack in place and then finished the hatch with latches and magnets.
It's best to install the ESC inside the cowl for air flow, not inside the fuse.
None of these three planes needed any additional weight to balance. Incidentally, one of those planes was actually flown on a 3S pack although it wasn't very fast as it flew on the wing but it did fly....I would still recommend using a 5S pack.
All three were bought by our club members and the oldest version had been converted to electric but very poorly executed. A top hatch was poorly made, the battery compartment was very small so I had to close that in again and create a new hatch on the bottom of the plane, installed a battery tray and created a removable hatch cover. This looks like the only way to do this unless you want to spend some time modifying the plane for a top hatch. It's not all that difficult. I removed a portion of the bottom of the plane just behind the fire wall. I then glued(epoxy) in a couple bass wood sticks to support the battery tray and then the tray itself. I added a hook and loop strap along with some Velcro to hold the battery pack in place and then finished the hatch with latches and magnets.
It's best to install the ESC inside the cowl for air flow, not inside the fuse.
None of these three planes needed any additional weight to balance. Incidentally, one of those planes was actually flown on a 3S pack although it wasn't very fast as it flew on the wing but it did fly....I would still recommend using a 5S pack.
