Greg Covey

The retract servo mounting parts are layed out on top of the opening. I used a Hitec HS-75BB Retract Servo from [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/servos.htm]Hobby Lobby[/link] since it was about half the cost of the JR version.

Unlike the Hangar 9 AT-6 Texan where the wheel wells were preinstalled, they arrive open on the Corsair. I consider this a better approach because it allowed me to fully inspect the retract mechanism and route the aileron servo wires more easily.

I attached the wheel well with servo tape but you can alternatively glue it in place.

The wheels were a perfect fit! I had fun testing the retracts for proper operation and found no problems.

Cliffw

Greg,
Have you decided which batteries and what configuration you are going to use?
Also it sounds like you lije the Jeti Opto vs the Castle for this plane?

I think I am going to start stocking more Glow to Electric conversion planes and want to be able to offer everything in a box like I am doing with some other planes.

Thanks for keeping us up to date, this one looks like a winner.

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

Greg I am using 2 Thunder Power 3S4P packs in my Hangar 9 P-51 conversion and I get two ten minute flights and one five minute flight. I am in the process of the same corsair conversion you are doing. I found a 15X10 3 blade prop from Varioprop out of Germany that really looks scale and is made for electrics. It has an adjustable pitch. Check it out at varioprop.com then go to the US link. It came from Texas I think from electro modeling usa. I am using a Hacker motor, I would be interested in comparing the performance of the Axi. Keep me posted.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

GREG,

well i got the motor mounted, and well i just had to test it right away, WOW im very impressed with its power on the 14 GP 3300 cells. it was very hard to hold it back at WOT.

after this first test i know i will have more power than i will ever need. the ammount of thrust this motor/battery combo has is outstanding.

greg also how or what do you use to measure how many AMPS your pulling ? i would like to do some figures on flight times and such. again thanks for all the help greg .


mitch

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

hey Mitch, I use an Astro Flight Super watt meter to check the amps. You put between the battery and the speed control then run the motor for a few seconds at full throttle. It cost about $35. It comes with deans plugs connected.

Kelvin

I was wondering when someone would convert this. Great thread.

I've been watching one of these fly at a rough unregulated field in Dallas, powered by a 4 stroke and a 14x9 3 blade MAS. It flys great. He is have an awfull time with the landing gear on his due probably to the rough grass/dirt runway he flys from. He left out the plastic liners so he could tweak his gear but it's been weeks and his gear still gives him alignment problems. The pop on linkage keeps coming off and his struts keep coming loose despite a flat on the struts and Loctite. That seems to be the only bad thing about his Corsair. Ive seen this Corsair fly very slow so a conversion should be able to fly slow enough for easy landings.

www.espirtmodel.com makes a motor mount that should work for this motor also. Click on accesories and then motor mount. These mounts are aluminum and you order the rods and spaces to fit your application. I use one in my Kyosho Spitfire conversion with my Hacker B50 and it provides great support and protects the motor. I sling the ESC under the mount for cooling.

That servo tester seems like a great tool. I'll have to order one.

I wish H9 would come out with a Spitfire that looks as good as their P-51 and Corsair.

Paint the prop flat black. It will look a lot better than the gray.

Are you planning on taking some video of a future flight

Thanks

Kelvin

Greg Covey

Hi Kelvin,

Thanks for the information. Retracts are...well, retracts. Even Robarts have there limits.

I won't fly my Corsair off of anything but mowed R/C field grass or pavement.

Cliff,

I haven't posted the photos yet but i'll likely start out with 16 to 20 cells of CP2400 NiCd. The ol' tank-like Corsair should be able to handle extra weight and I want to maximize my current draw with the AXI for short burst currents that push the motor limits. We use good throttle mangement so we can get away with loading up the power system a bit. I'll keep you posted.

Both the Jeti and Castle Creations ESCs are top quality. Either would work here.

mookie,

I've seen those Varioprops and they look great! I want to start out with a single source for all the e-conversion components to help simplify the review for others to copy. Many folks are completely lost (understandably) when they stop using glow engines. We're trying to help fix that.

Mitch,

I forgot what motor wind and prop size you were using. Can you list out your complete power system setup for us?

As for measuring the watts...what mookie said.

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3605&P=7]Astro Flight Super Whatt-Meter at Tower Hobbies[/link]

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

hello all,

well greg here is the plane and setup that i am using.

world models F4-U corsair

W.S. of 55in
fuse length 47 in
wing erea 574 sq. in
weight 6.5 lbs
made for a .46 2 stroke or a .72 4 stroke

my power system is=

model motors AXI 4120 14
aluminum motor mount (same as yours)
ESC jeti 70-3p opto no BEC
RX battery 600mah (until i can afford a UBEC)

PROP is a APC E- PROP 2 blade 14X10 (but i am going to try smaller also)

batterys=
2 7 cell packs of GP 3300`s using deans ultra connectors

i will posts pics tomorrow morning sometime of the plane and setup.

thanks

mitch

Greg Covey

Thanks, Mitch. That setup looks fine. Don't be afraid to beat on the AXI motor a bit.

After finishing my tail section, the Corsair really started to look great! The manual properly warns you about remembering to insert the elevator joiner before gluing the horzontal stabilizer, but, it fails to warn you about a critical rudder assembly step...stay tuned.

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

Greg, I just finished installing my control arms and they are just like the P-51. They are pretty tough to get the screws to line up so I used a larger drill bit through the elevator and ailerons to allow some movement of the screw. It may help. I gave up on the P-51 with one of the srews and put a little thin CA on it. I also used a Dremmel tool to shorten the retract push rod to allow the contrl arm in. Otherwise it's a bear. Just some info, you may not need but it helped me.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

hello all,

well heres the pics of the plane and the set-up im going to be using. notice the motor mount sides are turned IN to fit between the balsa supports. other than that everything is going together well.

i have not put the canopy, cowl or decals on yet so looks kind of plain right now. but here are the pics if i can get them to work this A.M. .


mitch

Cliffw

Bassman,
Did you not have to extend the motormount on the World models version?
I noticed that Greg had to extend 2 inches.

Greg Covey

Hey some pictures, very nice! You do have a camera, Mitch!

Cliff,

I believe that the World Models Corsair is a .40-size plane and the Hangar 9 Corsair is a .60-size plane.

mookie,

Right you are! I've learned to be in a patient mood when mounting those aileron control horns. I use a similar technique as you. When mounted, those horns are so tough that you could probably swing the plane by them.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

cliff,

yes, it needs to be moved out BUT only a small ammount, maybe 1/2 inch and it fits nicely with enough prop clearance. all it takes is a small piece of hard wood the length and width of the mount itself, under the mount to get the right distance.

mitch

Cliffw

Greg
Are you using the AXI 4130/16 or the 4130/20?
Thanks
Cliff

Greg Covey

Cliff,

I'm using the 4130/16 motor. My theory is that the higher Kv version AXI motors using less cells will result in a better power-to-weight ratio and effectively give you more watts per pound. We are currently investigating this theory with the AXI motor designer.

I'll detail it later on but I didn't want to "rant without reason".

Aruba

Hello.
I'm verry interested in this conversion. I want to use the same setup in my Funtana. I'll be folowing this thread closely.
One question I would like to use li poly but cant afford them at the moment, Where are you buying your batteries from?

John

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

hello aruba,

as for myself i got my battery`s, 7 cell packs of GP 3300`s from offshore electrics boats web site. the site addy for the battery page is http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/MainPage.htm
steven there at offshore is a great guy to work with and is easy to deal with. his battery pack prices are really good and he can make them for you in different configurations shown on his site. check his site out, you wont be dissapointed.

im sure greg will let us know where he gets his packs from hope this helps you aruba


mitch

Greg Covey

I get my NiCd and NiMH packs from [link=http://www.flydma.com/]Diversity Model Aircraft[/link]. They appear to be the best in the business for either sport or Zapped packs.

For Lithium cells (and NiCd cells), [link=http://www.flydma.com/]Hobby Lobby[/link] will ship to International destinations.

Greg Covey

Before gluing the stabilizers into the fuselage, you need to remove the covering for a better hold.

Greg Covey

When mounting the vertical stabilizer, the manual instructions have you push it all the way forward.

The instructions fail to tell you that this is only needed to initially install the tailwheel control rod for bending.

Be sure to move the fin back until the rudder lines up with the tailwheel control rod for a bind-free fit.

Note that in the photo, my tailwheel rod is not flush with the leading edge of the rudder since the fin is too far forward.

My assembly required some special cutting to help alleviate some of the binding since I did not push my vertical fin back into position after gluing. It should still work for a +- 30 swing until the binding becomes excessive.

Greg Covey

Here is my completed tail assembly and orientation with the wing.

Greg Covey

My Hangar 9 Corsair is starting to shape up!

The wing is test fitted onto the fuselage and then used to help check the stabilizer alignment during assembly.

Greg Covey

The rudder and elevator servos are mounted in the tail section in pre-made bays meant for standard size servos.

To make my smaller HS-85MG servos fit, I created some small plywood pieces that extend one end of the bay and level the other end.

Note that I also needed to extend my connector wires about 24" on both servos.

I also used the rudder servo bay opening as an exit for my receiver antenna. No need to drill any extra holes in this beauty.

Kelvin

Are you not worried by interference with the receiver antenna being so close to the servo?

Kelvin