TargetG

Hi Guys,

The kit is in it’s way , I have been reading mookie’s post of his P38. I’m planning to have almost same setup.

Axi motors 4130 -16
props 15x10 or 14x12 or 16x??? (taking off from asphalt)
Castle creations Phoenix 60 or 80 (please recommend)
Robart 550 mains
Robart 560 nose

This is my question before starting the P38. I now I need a lipo pack with 6s for the right RPM now.....what would be better option.

3s4p x 2 packs serial / motor (that’s mookie’s setup) Heavy setup
3s3p x 2 packs serial / motor lighter
3s2p x 2 packs serial / motor +lighter
6s2P x 1 packs / motor (long pack??? would it fit?) +lighter (same as above)
6s2P x 2 packs parallel / motor (long pack ??? would it fit?) Heavy setup

I’m worry that the long packs won’t fit. And, I’m flying at 8000ft so maybe it would be wise to reduce the weight using less parallel cells. Only you can tell me because you have used many different packs. I’ll make pics of all the building process

THX

Leon G[sm=biggrin.gif]

TargetG

Hi Guys,

It has arrived, the quality of the kit is perfect, a lot of detail and very solid construction. Mike from VQ model was very helpful and he sent this model in 2 days only (not bad for international shipping)

Also I received an PM from Mookie1, and he told me to be careful with the size of the battery and to try to keep weight as low as possible, so I´m going to use motocalc and maybe go for 2x3s3p on each motor to be in the middle of flight time for this model. Also I´m going to buy robarts to put in it.

TargetG

Hi,

Today I´m doing some shopping and trying to figure what kind of servos would be good for this model , also in what way should I manage the landing gear doors.
I build jets so I tend to over engineer every aspect of my planes , here I need your help for not doing it again. Any Ideas?


LG

TargetG

Hi All:

Today I wrote to Mookie for the same questions I posted here, and he reply with the following:

"I think I had pictures on my thread for the front wheel door. It's a spring hinge that holds it open then a wire pulls it closed with the gear. I left the rear hatches off for cooling of batteries( also I read they were a real pain to finish). Use a proportional servo for the flaps so you can control the movement. Mine are all standard size. Good luck, send photos."



So I understand perfectly. I´m going to put all standard maybe hitec or futaba. and low profile aileron servos for the flaps. I hope the flaps come down with enough torque.

I´ll keep you posted, and photos are comming.

Leon G

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

Keep going Target, it's a rather long and bumpy road but well worth it. Post some pics as you go.

TargetG

Hi,

Good to see you around Mookie, I bought robart retracts for the P38 and I think that the nose strut is to big I need to cut it a little, that I will do until I finish some other things first.

The question here is how much distance is from the fuse to the center of the wheel on your P38? Help me save some time.





LG

TargetG

Hi

The flaps is the item of the day. I´m using regular aileron servos for flaps on the P38. After I did that they work almost perfect but I think that they are a bit sloppy, This is not to good but I don´t know how much would this affect the performance of the model. I would like to know if Mookie´s bird is the same and if he could adjust this problem or maybe it is acceptable to have them like this?
Here you have photos, look at the great detail of the wings. I keep thinking if I´m going to be able to see the airplane in the air (the bottom is sky color). LOL

See you

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

It is hard to see it in the air. It really is frightening! Like you need any more stress!

TargetG

Hi Again,

Mookie you are wright I don´t need more stress (I have that flying jets), I´m going to use aluminum tape for making markers on the bottom. And here are for all the people reading your answers to my questions:

"My front strut was a problem. I had to use all the room in the nose gear compartment to make it work. You need a little bit of an angle to get off the ground. My first flight went fast but not in the air!
My flaps were sloppy too. It's OK just make sure they move the same distance. "

So we are going to continue ASAP. Tonight I installed the aileron servos and it was easy. The difficult part was to take the cables inside the wing.

I´ll be back tomorrow.[sm=thumbup.gif] .............. Wait..... I was telling Mookie that we are going to win the longest post on the forum with only two people LOL[sm=biggrin.gif]

THX Mookie.

Bye

LG

TargetG

Hi,

Today I got this ( Axi motors 4130 and ESC Jeti 77 opto plus) I will continue posting.

luc-RCU

I don't like for these axi shafts the adapters mp jet you show( I had the same); it makes the prop to turn with some wooble. Hence, later, on my 4130/16 planes (I got 4, H9 conversion warbirds P51, AT-6, P40 and spit WM, all with the 4130/16) I prefered to mount these motors backwards with the conversion kit. The mounting is perfect and the prop turns "round".
There is another advantage to mount these motors backwards: if your nose (spinner) touches (rather strongly) the ground (it can happen on a landing), the motor will have a tendency to pop out if you mount it normally (don't ask how I know, one of my motors went back to model motors).
If you mount the motor backwards, the cage can't go out.

feathermerchant

On this plane I'd consider using 2 receivers and treating it like 2 planes. One receiver in each fuse. Save lots on intercoinnecting wiring and make it simpler to put together at the field.
Set the controllers for the advance they recommend for AXI's I think it is 'hard advance'. Set them to soft cutoff so the motor pulsates if the battery voltage gets too low but does not stop all together. Set the current limiting to insensitive or disabled if possible. We're just trying to eliminate the possibility of one motor stopping.
On props, at your altitude I'd guess 16X10 or 17X10 APCE. Try the 16 first. Prop for about 45A but don't use WOT for more than 30sec or so at a time. If you do and hear a whine from the plane, it means one motor is about to fail so throttle back and dead stick it in. Don't ask how I know.
Good luck. This is one I want to do.
Oh for batteries, I'd buy 2-6S 3,650 Tanic packs from Brian at Tanicpacks.com They will be very happy at 45A.
Keep your battery wires short as possible.
Don't forget a UBEC or 2 for flightpower. They make 4.8V and 6V

TargetG

hi.


I'm going to use 2x 3s4p packs for each motor. I'm only going to take off only the outer parts of the wing the rest will stay together. So no complication taking it apart. I'll use one RX with a Y connection for the 2 ESC's . It's a very good idea to take the power cut off out for this model. The props... I'm afraid there is no space for biker than 15x10 or maybe cutting a 16x12 to get more pitch. I'm going to buy a bat signal that sounds a set of tones when you connect the battery for # of cells and charge amount, this way I'll prevent the risk of deep discharge of the Lipos. I'll post pictures soon.

Leon G

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

Keep the information coming.....Great info on converting a glow to electric...makes sense ...especially on TWINS!!!!!!!!!

TargetG

Here you have some shots of the acrilic extensions for motor mount that I made + landing gear mounted .

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Leon,
You are going to use 2 3s4p packs per motor? As in 24 cells per motor?[X(]
What capacity cell and what C rating?

Did you get any further with the build?

TargetG

Just to save a little weight and also to be able to use the packs in other airplanes I'm going to use 2 3s3p packs per motor. And we could tell that is more like 20 cells. I'm using 15c rating cells but the total draw would be around 45 amps per motor so no problem. I'm going to be in FLA for 10 days so I'll have to post when I get home more information. I need this airplane to be ready in 3 or 4 weeks tops so you will see even the maiden video by that time.

Take care.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

10 days, 2 weeks, What's up? Where are you at?

TargetG

Hi Guys

I'm back and ready to have this baby flying ASAP. Here I have some shoots of the hatch that is made for batteries. You could load batteries from the front of the boom but you'll have to take the prop out. That's why we made the hatch under the boom to be able to load the two packs. Then I made a tray inside to be able to hold the packs firmly with velcro straps. Here are some pics.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

G:

Stop screwing with the pictures and finish the plane. I have been silently waiting, reading, looking, and sitting at the edge of my seat ,excited at the possibility of seeing the bird fly. JUST DO IT.

Al

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

Good work! How did it balance out? Keep going- your close!!!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Target, Can't see in the photos, which pack set up did you settle on?

TargetG

Glacier, The packs are 3s3p (4 of them) they will be 2 on each side of the plane and connect in serial to form 6S3P per side.

Mookie, the plane balance is perfect and I'd like to ask you again how did you spring load the landing gear doors ? I'm planning to do all of them.

THX

Leon G.

TargetG

Glacier, I'm using 2 pack 3s3p per side of the plane. This two packs are going to be connected in serial making 6s3p.

Mookie, Please help me with the spring loading for the landing gear doors. If you could post a pic of it because in the other ones that you posted are imposible to see.

THX

Leon G

mookie1

My Feedback: (5)

Leon, I will try to post a pic this week of the gear door. I only have the front wheel with a door. It is loaded with a small hinge spring and then a wire pulls it shut with the gear. I left the rear off for cooling. Everywhere I read said it was really difficult to get them right anyway.
Mookie