P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
06-29-2006, 05:51 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Carl,
Nice looking bird, but the costs add up quickly. $180.00 for bird and motor, add another $90.00 for a good esc like a Castle, $60.00 for 3 servos, $50.00 for an rx, and at least $100.00 for a good pack. Bingo it's a $500.00 bird.
I bite at this stuff all the time, see the price on the bird and forget about what it will take to make it fly. LOL
One other thing on an EDF, they do not fly like a prop job. You have to allow for spool up on the EDF to get you going, not like slamming the throttle on a prop version, and seeing instant power. I came very close to loosing my first few when forgetting this.[X(]
As for the P38, not sure, I'm going to do some weighing and some figuring of the packs,gear, and such and see what comes up. I'm going to try and stay as light as possible.
Other then the LG blocks installed there isn't much that I see that can be trimmed out of this one. The separate pieces feel like picking up a piece of foam. I'll get a weight on the bare bones bird and see what I have to start with.
Nice looking bird, but the costs add up quickly. $180.00 for bird and motor, add another $90.00 for a good esc like a Castle, $60.00 for 3 servos, $50.00 for an rx, and at least $100.00 for a good pack. Bingo it's a $500.00 bird.
I bite at this stuff all the time, see the price on the bird and forget about what it will take to make it fly. LOL
One other thing on an EDF, they do not fly like a prop job. You have to allow for spool up on the EDF to get you going, not like slamming the throttle on a prop version, and seeing instant power. I came very close to loosing my first few when forgetting this.[X(]
As for the P38, not sure, I'm going to do some weighing and some figuring of the packs,gear, and such and see what comes up. I'm going to try and stay as light as possible.
Other then the LG blocks installed there isn't much that I see that can be trimmed out of this one. The separate pieces feel like picking up a piece of foam. I'll get a weight on the bare bones bird and see what I have to start with.
06-29-2006, 01:12 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Amaizing bird, easy to fall in love with...
I was thinking in get one this beauties, so far one my better power train elections in terms of weight, efficiency, thrust and flight time should be:
2 Hyperion Z4020-16 (just 10 onz each one, tremendous power)
2 Prop 13 X10 3 BLADE (for scale looking, awesome 224 onz of thrust, aprox 6 mins full throttle or 12 X 9 3 BLADE (179 ounces , aprox 8 minutes full throttle)
2 Hiperion Lite Storm 5S 4200 16C (16 onz each, very high volttage on this packs, this combo will demand just 11C from the batteries)
2 Hyperion Titan 80 Opto
Some suppositions for this calcs:
AWU 195onz (a bit above advertised)
WLoading 25.9 onz/sqft
Should be flying hands off at 55%-60% thottle
Thin air, 7000 ft Above Sea Level
Please, help me refining this...
Which is the ARF empty weight?
Does the wings are easy to remove for transport??
Good Luck!!
I was thinking in get one this beauties, so far one my better power train elections in terms of weight, efficiency, thrust and flight time should be:
2 Hyperion Z4020-16 (just 10 onz each one, tremendous power)
2 Prop 13 X10 3 BLADE (for scale looking, awesome 224 onz of thrust, aprox 6 mins full throttle or 12 X 9 3 BLADE (179 ounces , aprox 8 minutes full throttle)
2 Hiperion Lite Storm 5S 4200 16C (16 onz each, very high volttage on this packs, this combo will demand just 11C from the batteries)
2 Hyperion Titan 80 Opto
Some suppositions for this calcs:
AWU 195onz (a bit above advertised)
WLoading 25.9 onz/sqft
Should be flying hands off at 55%-60% thottle
Thin air, 7000 ft Above Sea Level
Please, help me refining this...
Which is the ARF empty weight?
Does the wings are easy to remove for transport??
Good Luck!!
06-29-2006, 01:19 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
I was trying to upload a video of the full sized bird before the holiday, but, can't make it in time. Just for anyone's info. I believe the engines have counter rotating props.
Al
Al
06-29-2006, 01:40 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
I'll weigh the booms,wing, elevator,rudders, various cowlings, center pod and canopy all together tonight for you.
Is going to be a not fun to take down bird. You'll have to make connectors for the electrics so you can split off the booms and center pod. And I would recommend making up a brace to install across the booms when the wing is off to prevent damage to the horizontal stabilizer.
Is going to be a not fun to take down bird. You'll have to make connectors for the electrics so you can split off the booms and center pod. And I would recommend making up a brace to install across the booms when the wing is off to prevent damage to the horizontal stabilizer.
06-29-2006, 05:24 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Ok weighed it all, including the wing tubes, control rods, clevis', etc. Not including the included landing gear. 3020 gr. or approx 6.66 pounds.
Ok enough about this one here. I'll get a new forum started just for the 90 version.
Ok enough about this one here. I'll get a new forum started just for the 90 version.
07-01-2006, 05:25 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
GG,
This is falcon finder. How is the F-20. I was looking to do a big P-38 electric conversion. I see you did the 51 in P-38 and a 90 will be soon. Maybe I should do the 51 first. Can you send me the specs and location of purchuse(if you can) of all the parts(plan, motor, esc(x2?) and servos. Did you put retracts on the 51. If so what did you use. Great lookin plane. I still fly my 900 watt stryker alot.
good flyin Falcon finder
This is falcon finder. How is the F-20. I was looking to do a big P-38 electric conversion. I see you did the 51 in P-38 and a 90 will be soon. Maybe I should do the 51 first. Can you send me the specs and location of purchuse(if you can) of all the parts(plan, motor, esc(x2?) and servos. Did you put retracts on the 51. If so what did you use. Great lookin plane. I still fly my 900 watt stryker alot.
good flyin Falcon finder
07-01-2006, 07:16 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Hey FF,
The 52" bird is from www.nitroplanes.com
Motors, Tower Pro 2410-9Y's and 30 amp esc's are from here. www.aarchhobby.com
Packs are Thunder Power 3S2100 prolites, 2 of them.
I used Hitec 81 servos throughout. 6 of them, ailerons,elevator,steering, retract valve. Used an MG version in the steering.
I went with air retracts from SouthEast Models, were not cheap. Final tally on them was over $350.00. Do a little digging and you can probably find em cheaper elsewhere.
Spinners for the 3 blades are Dubro's #541
Props are Master Air Screw, 9x7x3
Rx is a Hitec 6 chn dual conversion.
Wheels are Dubro too, but don't remember the #'s, 2" in front 2 1/4" rear I think.
The F20's a fast bird, right up there with Slayer. So far, knock on balsa, it's all in one piece.
The 52" bird is from www.nitroplanes.com
Motors, Tower Pro 2410-9Y's and 30 amp esc's are from here. www.aarchhobby.com
Packs are Thunder Power 3S2100 prolites, 2 of them.
I used Hitec 81 servos throughout. 6 of them, ailerons,elevator,steering, retract valve. Used an MG version in the steering.
I went with air retracts from SouthEast Models, were not cheap. Final tally on them was over $350.00. Do a little digging and you can probably find em cheaper elsewhere.
Spinners for the 3 blades are Dubro's #541
Props are Master Air Screw, 9x7x3
Rx is a Hitec 6 chn dual conversion.
Wheels are Dubro too, but don't remember the #'s, 2" in front 2 1/4" rear I think.
The F20's a fast bird, right up there with Slayer. So far, knock on balsa, it's all in one piece.
07-01-2006, 07:19 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
One last note on the 90" version.
Ok for anyone who's keeping score.
Prices so far.
Bird - $250.00
Retracts/struts - $285.00, less then what I have in the 52" version.
Servos - $370.00
Spinners - $16.00
Esc's - $235.00
Rx/crystals - $135.00
Motors - $100.00
Rolls of battery wire - $65.00
That's oh somewhere around $1400.00 so far.
Still have to add wheels and possibly brakes. Somewhere around $350.00
Props, what maybe $40.00
Misc hardware/wires/wood/etc. - $150.00
Packs???? I'm guessing in the $600.00 range per side.
So I'm up to around $3200.00 ready to go.[X(][X(][X(]
Ok for anyone who's keeping score.
Prices so far.
Bird - $250.00
Retracts/struts - $285.00, less then what I have in the 52" version.
Servos - $370.00
Spinners - $16.00
Esc's - $235.00
Rx/crystals - $135.00
Motors - $100.00
Rolls of battery wire - $65.00
That's oh somewhere around $1400.00 so far.
Still have to add wheels and possibly brakes. Somewhere around $350.00
Props, what maybe $40.00
Misc hardware/wires/wood/etc. - $150.00
Packs???? I'm guessing in the $600.00 range per side.
So I'm up to around $3200.00 ready to go.[X(][X(][X(]
07-02-2006, 08:56 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
GG
Can you send some pics of your retracts. Also, what part numbers did you order and hobby shop for the complete retract system plus air can. I have never done retracts. This is going to be fun. thanks Falcon finder
Can you send some pics of your retracts. Also, what part numbers did you order and hobby shop for the complete retract system plus air can. I have never done retracts. This is going to be fun. thanks Falcon finder
07-02-2006, 04:50 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
FF, will fly the P38 7/3/06 6am til windy (10amish) at Cincinnati Silent flyers field. If you can make it bring ducted fan jet so I can see.
Carl
Carl
07-03-2006, 05:42 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
F/F,
Let me do some digging to see if I have some shots of them. All aluminum/bronze.
As for part number I have no idea, I just called Larry at S/E Models and told him what I was building, and he built the set for me. And yes it comes as a complete set. 3 retracts, gear wire, hose, valves, tank, T fittings etc.
Here give Larry a holler and tell him you need the same set up I got from him, with the heavy duty nose gear I ended up going with, vs the standard one that I originally used.
[email protected]
Brad
Let me do some digging to see if I have some shots of them. All aluminum/bronze.
As for part number I have no idea, I just called Larry at S/E Models and told him what I was building, and he built the set for me. And yes it comes as a complete set. 3 retracts, gear wire, hose, valves, tank, T fittings etc.
Here give Larry a holler and tell him you need the same set up I got from him, with the heavy duty nose gear I ended up going with, vs the standard one that I originally used.
[email protected]
Brad
07-04-2006, 03:08 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Oh well holiday off, managed to get a little accomplshed. Motors are installed and mounts made up. None of what the LHS had in stock looked strong enough to handle the torque that's going to be put on them. So I'm looking at the gas mounts that came with the kit, and hmmm, gas motors put out a lot of vibration, hence the heavy materials used in building up the firewall, as in this one it's a double 1/8" lite ply wall.
Wonder if I can convert these over? Well what do you think?
1/8" aluminum plate I had laying around, popped off the nose of one of the motors and made a template for the holes. Drilled and counter sunk the mount screw holes, and drilled out the others. Then using a drill press I drilled each mount end 1 1/2 inches deep and ran self threading screws in them. Squared the plate to the mounts, added a little epoxy to the screw holes, and drove the screws home. Now then I knew the mounts were not quite long enough to give the motors the right position, in reference to the cowls so measured them up and cut some hardwood spacers. Oh and I added aprox 3 degrees of down angle to the blocks and 3 degrees right to the mounts. Anyhow centered up the mounts on the blocks and marked the holes for the mounting bolts on it. It was a simple matter of centering the block on the crosshairs already on the fire wall to line everything up. And yes I did dry fit everything to be sure once the cowls were on all was right. Tacked the blocks into place with a little CA, and drilled the holes for the mount bolts through the block and the firewalls. Installed the retaining nuts, and bolted all back up and checked the fit one more time. All was good so unbolted the mounts, and glued the blocks to the firewall with 15 min epoxy. While I was waiting for the epoxy to dry I pulled all the mount screws out and put a little threadlocker on them. Don't want anything comming loose. Epoxy dry, bolted all back up with threadlocker on the bolts. And that was about it...............
Ok I had to make sure the motors ran, so I rigged up an rx/esc/lipo set up, and yep they both purrrrrrrrrr.
Now hopefully the retracts and servos show up so I can get rolling on them.
Oh one big tip, my motors came with the correct length mounting screws for the aluminum plate thickness. Make sure yours do not go too deep or they will hit the wires inside the motors and all the magic smoke will leak out.[X(]
Wonder if I can convert these over? Well what do you think?
1/8" aluminum plate I had laying around, popped off the nose of one of the motors and made a template for the holes. Drilled and counter sunk the mount screw holes, and drilled out the others. Then using a drill press I drilled each mount end 1 1/2 inches deep and ran self threading screws in them. Squared the plate to the mounts, added a little epoxy to the screw holes, and drove the screws home. Now then I knew the mounts were not quite long enough to give the motors the right position, in reference to the cowls so measured them up and cut some hardwood spacers. Oh and I added aprox 3 degrees of down angle to the blocks and 3 degrees right to the mounts. Anyhow centered up the mounts on the blocks and marked the holes for the mounting bolts on it. It was a simple matter of centering the block on the crosshairs already on the fire wall to line everything up. And yes I did dry fit everything to be sure once the cowls were on all was right. Tacked the blocks into place with a little CA, and drilled the holes for the mount bolts through the block and the firewalls. Installed the retaining nuts, and bolted all back up and checked the fit one more time. All was good so unbolted the mounts, and glued the blocks to the firewall with 15 min epoxy. While I was waiting for the epoxy to dry I pulled all the mount screws out and put a little threadlocker on them. Don't want anything comming loose. Epoxy dry, bolted all back up with threadlocker on the bolts. And that was about it...............
Ok I had to make sure the motors ran, so I rigged up an rx/esc/lipo set up, and yep they both purrrrrrrrrr.
Now hopefully the retracts and servos show up so I can get rolling on them.
Oh one big tip, my motors came with the correct length mounting screws for the aluminum plate thickness. Make sure yours do not go too deep or they will hit the wires inside the motors and all the magic smoke will leak out.[X(]
07-17-2006, 07:11 AM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Check the twin engine section, for a few good ideas on the Nitro Planes P-38
Think one was New P-38 - other Nitro Planes p-38 electric
LEM
Think one was New P-38 - other Nitro Planes p-38 electric
LEM
08-02-2006, 08:18 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
GG,
I have the p-38 almost done. I went with the Vario 3 blade variable pitch blades/prop adaptor from www.eam.net I can not seem to find a 1 3/4 inch spinner for my 51 in p-38. I know that I would first need to figure out the best pitch and then cut the grooves for the spinner to fit the blades, but I can even find a 3 blade spinner. It looks like you are using a 3 blade system with a spinner. What are you using. Using the Himax 1220 with 30 amp esc and 3 cell 2100 15c in parallel. 45.6 amps at 460 watts 65 oz thrust and 60 MPH with hs 65 servos. Should really go.
I have the p-38 almost done. I went with the Vario 3 blade variable pitch blades/prop adaptor from www.eam.net I can not seem to find a 1 3/4 inch spinner for my 51 in p-38. I know that I would first need to figure out the best pitch and then cut the grooves for the spinner to fit the blades, but I can even find a 3 blade spinner. It looks like you are using a 3 blade system with a spinner. What are you using. Using the Himax 1220 with 30 amp esc and 3 cell 2100 15c in parallel. 45.6 amps at 460 watts 65 oz thrust and 60 MPH with hs 65 servos. Should really go.
12-24-2010, 06:47 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
Anyone still flying theres? I'm trying to find the big thread of RC Universe?? I found a site that had one left and I decided I wanted to have a balsa P-38 instead of a foam P-38's out there. Anyway mine was a generic brown box but it looks identical to the Raidentech / Nittro models version. I do have a couple of battery tray's in each boom and this version also came with two servo trays in each boom for both rudder and elevator so I have two servo's for elevator and two servo's for rudder's. Works pretty good.
Ok so I'm about 95% complete with everything. I'm down to tweaking. All I need to do is figure out proper CG and how to get rudder to work with steerable front wheel.
Question 1) What's proper CG? Instructions say 70mm from LE but from where??? Is it from the closest section of the center pod? Or is it inside boom section a little confused as the wing gets narrow pretty quick 70mm from center pod is way diffrent that 70mm from outside boom etc...
Question 2) My pea brain cant figure out the right orientation for the steerable nose wheel. It took two y adapters to get both rudders and nose wheel to work however I'm not sure which direction the wheel needs to turn in relation to the rudder. Does that make sense? There are so many wires in the center boom. I dont want to put it all together test it then find out I have it backwards. I tried twice putting all the wires in and it's a real chore.
Also I'm using twin 2200's ontop of each boom. When batteries were located under wing in the battery hatch it seems very very nose heavy. Hence why I switched to the top side of the boom but I need to determine proper.
I'm aslo using 60A Turnigy ESC's I did not disconect one of the BEC's? Do I need to disconnect one? I have both ESC's plugged into a y adapter and into the throttle port on my AR7000. I'm aslo trying out those new turnigy G10 motor's. They make about 400W each so that should be plenty of motor. I would appreciate any input.
I used 7 HXT900 9gr servo's 2 for Elevator 2 for Rudder, 2 for Aileron 1 for nose wheel
2 Turnigy 60A ESC (I was planning on using bigger G15 motor's that recommend 60A ESC but decided those motors were too big so kept ESC instead of buying smaller 40A version)
2 Turnigy G10 1100ky 400+w motor looks comprable to 35-36 1100kv
2 Turnigy 2200 30c 3cell battery
1 Spectrum AR7000
7 12" servo extension
4 4" y adapters for E, R, A, T You need to y adapters for rudder and nose gear
If anyone is intrested I'll post some video and pictures.
Ok so I'm about 95% complete with everything. I'm down to tweaking. All I need to do is figure out proper CG and how to get rudder to work with steerable front wheel.
Question 1) What's proper CG? Instructions say 70mm from LE but from where??? Is it from the closest section of the center pod? Or is it inside boom section a little confused as the wing gets narrow pretty quick 70mm from center pod is way diffrent that 70mm from outside boom etc...
Question 2) My pea brain cant figure out the right orientation for the steerable nose wheel. It took two y adapters to get both rudders and nose wheel to work however I'm not sure which direction the wheel needs to turn in relation to the rudder. Does that make sense? There are so many wires in the center boom. I dont want to put it all together test it then find out I have it backwards. I tried twice putting all the wires in and it's a real chore.
Also I'm using twin 2200's ontop of each boom. When batteries were located under wing in the battery hatch it seems very very nose heavy. Hence why I switched to the top side of the boom but I need to determine proper.
I'm aslo using 60A Turnigy ESC's I did not disconect one of the BEC's? Do I need to disconnect one? I have both ESC's plugged into a y adapter and into the throttle port on my AR7000. I'm aslo trying out those new turnigy G10 motor's. They make about 400W each so that should be plenty of motor. I would appreciate any input.
I used 7 HXT900 9gr servo's 2 for Elevator 2 for Rudder, 2 for Aileron 1 for nose wheel
2 Turnigy 60A ESC (I was planning on using bigger G15 motor's that recommend 60A ESC but decided those motors were too big so kept ESC instead of buying smaller 40A version)
2 Turnigy G10 1100ky 400+w motor looks comprable to 35-36 1100kv
2 Turnigy 2200 30c 3cell battery
1 Spectrum AR7000
7 12" servo extension
4 4" y adapters for E, R, A, T You need to y adapters for rudder and nose gear
If anyone is intrested I'll post some video and pictures.
01-02-2011, 09:35 PM
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RE: P38 lightening 12 by Raidentech/nitromodels
ORIGINAL: Fidy$Trainer
Anyone still flying theres? I'm trying to find the big thread of RC Universe?? I found a site that had one left and I decided I wanted to have a balsa P-38 instead of a foam P-38's out there. Anyway mine was a generic brown box but it looks identical to the Raidentech / Nittro models version. I do have a couple of battery tray's in each boom and this version also came with two servo trays in each boom for both rudder and elevator so I have two servo's for elevator and two servo's for rudder's. Works pretty good.
Ok so I'm about 95% complete with everything. I'm down to tweaking. All I need to do is figure out proper CG and how to get rudder to work with steerable front wheel.
Question 1) What's proper CG? Instructions say 70mm from LE but from where??? Is it from the closest section of the center pod? Or is it inside boom section a little confused as the wing gets narrow pretty quick 70mm from center pod is way diffrent that 70mm from outside boom etc...
Question 2) My pea brain cant figure out the right orientation for the steerable nose wheel. It took two y adapters to get both rudders and nose wheel to work however I'm not sure which direction the wheel needs to turn in relation to the rudder. Does that make sense? There are so many wires in the center boom. I dont want to put it all together test it then find out I have it backwards. I tried twice putting all the wires in and it's a real chore.
Also I'm using twin 2200's ontop of each boom. When batteries were located under wing in the battery hatch it seems very very nose heavy. Hence why I switched to the top side of the boom but I need to determine proper.
I'm aslo using 60A Turnigy ESC's I did not disconect one of the BEC's? Do I need to disconnect one? I have both ESC's plugged into a y adapter and into the throttle port on my AR7000. I'm aslo trying out those new turnigy G10 motor's. They make about 400W each so that should be plenty of motor. I would appreciate any input.
I used 7 HXT900 9gr servo's 2 for Elevator 2 for Rudder, 2 for Aileron 1 for nose wheel
2 Turnigy 60A ESC (I was planning on using bigger G15 motor's that recommend 60A ESC but decided those motors were too big so kept ESC instead of buying smaller 40A version)
2 Turnigy G10 1100ky 400+w motor looks comprable to 35-36 1100kv
2 Turnigy 2200 30c 3cell battery
1 Spectrum AR7000
7 12'' servo extension
4 4'' y adapters for E, R, A, T You need to y adapters for rudder and nose gear
If anyone is intrested I'll post some video and pictures.
Anyone still flying theres? I'm trying to find the big thread of RC Universe?? I found a site that had one left and I decided I wanted to have a balsa P-38 instead of a foam P-38's out there. Anyway mine was a generic brown box but it looks identical to the Raidentech / Nittro models version. I do have a couple of battery tray's in each boom and this version also came with two servo trays in each boom for both rudder and elevator so I have two servo's for elevator and two servo's for rudder's. Works pretty good.
Ok so I'm about 95% complete with everything. I'm down to tweaking. All I need to do is figure out proper CG and how to get rudder to work with steerable front wheel.
Question 1) What's proper CG? Instructions say 70mm from LE but from where??? Is it from the closest section of the center pod? Or is it inside boom section a little confused as the wing gets narrow pretty quick 70mm from center pod is way diffrent that 70mm from outside boom etc...
Question 2) My pea brain cant figure out the right orientation for the steerable nose wheel. It took two y adapters to get both rudders and nose wheel to work however I'm not sure which direction the wheel needs to turn in relation to the rudder. Does that make sense? There are so many wires in the center boom. I dont want to put it all together test it then find out I have it backwards. I tried twice putting all the wires in and it's a real chore.
Also I'm using twin 2200's ontop of each boom. When batteries were located under wing in the battery hatch it seems very very nose heavy. Hence why I switched to the top side of the boom but I need to determine proper.
I'm aslo using 60A Turnigy ESC's I did not disconect one of the BEC's? Do I need to disconnect one? I have both ESC's plugged into a y adapter and into the throttle port on my AR7000. I'm aslo trying out those new turnigy G10 motor's. They make about 400W each so that should be plenty of motor. I would appreciate any input.
I used 7 HXT900 9gr servo's 2 for Elevator 2 for Rudder, 2 for Aileron 1 for nose wheel
2 Turnigy 60A ESC (I was planning on using bigger G15 motor's that recommend 60A ESC but decided those motors were too big so kept ESC instead of buying smaller 40A version)
2 Turnigy G10 1100ky 400+w motor looks comprable to 35-36 1100kv
2 Turnigy 2200 30c 3cell battery
1 Spectrum AR7000
7 12'' servo extension
4 4'' y adapters for E, R, A, T You need to y adapters for rudder and nose gear
If anyone is intrested I'll post some video and pictures.
Fidy, yeah I'm still here. I finished up my second 52 about a month or so ago, and got a brand new 90 ready to go on the build table.
In answer to your questions, first off you got the newer version if it has working rudders and the the hatches in the booms for the packs.
And yeah unless you use small packs it ends up nose heavy. And there's no way to move the packs backwards as the servo trays are in the way. I ended up adding lead shot to both booms to balance it out on mine.
70mm is right for the CG, measure it right up against the gondola/center pod.
The plane will make a circle if you turn the wheels either way, so the rudders will follow in following the same circle as it turns. Left rudder, nose wheel turn left, right rudder, nose wheel turns right. Only way to know is to hook it up. If the nose wheel is backwards, just flip the servo arm 180 degrees and reinstall it. Now the nose wheel will steer to match the rudders.
I disconnected both becs on my escs and installed a stand alone bec. Not wise to try not unhooking one bec on a twin, but the single bec may not be able to carry the load. You have 7 servos and the receiver it has to power and that's a lot. I used a 7.5 amp capable bec on mine.
And make it easy on yourself, use two receivers. Save you a lot of wiring that way. All you need then is a pair of wires for the parallel battery connection and one lead for the steering servo. Instead of 7 servo leads and 2 battery wires you have to fish through the wing to the gondola/center pod with a single rx.
The 60 esc will be great, they don't have to work as hard as the 40's would. Keep em down so the air in the chin intake blows over them and they will be happy campers.
Let me know what prop you plan on using and I can run the set up through MotoCalc for you.
Just PM me as it will show up when I check my email.
Would love to see your photos and video.
Brad
