G-EMMA

I've a few ideas for doing conversions to electric, as an example I'm looking at this one [link=http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/Aircraft/Classic_scale/dh82a_tiger_moth.htm]http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/Aircraft/Classic_scale/dh82a_tiger_moth.htm[/link] as a possible first project. Being a newbie RC flyer (on my first foam models at the moment) I'm not really sure where to start. I came across this article.

[link=http://homepage.mac.com/kmyersefo/midwest/articles/eConversions.pdf]http://homepage.mac.com/kmyersefo/midwest/articles/eConversions.pdf[/link]

Generally if I were to follow this (and of course asking advice here before spending any money) would I be on the right tracks? Are there any other easy to understand articles on the basics. Remember I'm a complete newb so much I've found so far is a bit over my head.

Thanks

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

That's quite an ambitious first conversion. Not a bad subject, but it's quite a large plane, calling for a 1.20 4-stroke glow engine.

Personally, I would start out a bit smaller, with something a little more suited to an advanced-beginner/almost-intermediate pilot. The cost of converting something that big will probably make you choke when you see it, and if that doesn't make you choke, crashing something that expensive will

Look more in the range of planes that call for a .40 2-stroke glow engine for your first conversion. There are thousands of subjects and they run the gamut from simple trainers to advanced aerobatic/scale/propjet type aircraft. Heck, I think there are a few Tiger Moths out there in this size.

Conversions have gotten much easier as time has marched on. There's not quite as much science involved as there once was. Eflite, for example, has named their line of motors in terms of the appropriate glow engine "equivalents." If you use a Power46 motor with one of the recommended prop/battery combinations, you can expect reasonable performance out of most any glow airplane that usually calls for a .40-.46 2-stroke glow engine, for example.

tIANci

G Emma - what you need is like this. For power they use WATTS per POUND to get a baseline figure. For sport planes you are looking at getting 100W/lb, 3D at least 150W/lb. For something like your Tiggie you can get away with 70W/lb. You also need to get the right prop for the plane, watts is not the answer but a baseline to start with. I have a Kyosho AgWagon, a 40 sized plane of about 5 lbs. She is flying on 400W only. That gives me scale flying and I can pull decent loops only.

What you need to look into next is battery placement and access. This is important for obvious reasons, especially on a bipe. With battery placement you need to remember that it affects CG ... you need to replace the weight of the engine for glow. Don't forget to place the ESC in an area where there is sufficient cooling.

Motor

Look for some outrunner for simplicity. Look at something like the AXI 5320 or 5330. There are a lot of other brands out there but use the AXI as a mere guide. I am using the DualSky XM6360CA-12T motor and am getting about 20 lbs thrust out of a cheap motor.

ESC

You need an ESC that is rated for HIGH VOLTAGE, meaning >6S lipoly. Look at something that is about 90A. Example is the Castle Creation CC85HV.

RX Power

Best to use a battery like in glow.

Batt

You can run an 8S or 10S set up.

Prop

Something around an APC 18x10 is a good start.

Motor mount

You can purchase the nice cage style ones of just use stand offs like what they use on gas engines.

I hope this info assists you somewhat.

G-EMMA

Thanks guys, your right Matt, I choked on the price Bad choice for my first conversion project. I'll add that to the list of models I would like in my hanger when I'm a bit more experienced. Flair also do a big Cub for .40 which I think many people have converted to electric, it's a lot cheaper and is meant to be very easy to fly. As I'll soon be moving on to 4 channel, maybe that would be a better project for my first conversion.

netdudeuk

If it's a Cub that you want you may get better and cheaper resuls with the E-Flite J3 Cub which is designed for electric flight and at 60"+ is as big as most 40 size Cubs anyway. You can use two 2200mAH 3S packs in parallel with one of the recommended motors so batteries would be cheap as well.

G-EMMA

Thanks for that netdudeuk, the e-flite cub looks ideal, save me re-inventing the wheel

tIANci

G Emma - batteries are a killer when you start to look at bigger planes huh?

G-EMMA

Sure are tIANci - seems all those costs pile up as you move up in the model world just as it does with full size aircraft - not good whilst I'm still perfecting my landings with a HZ Cub I'm now going to go for a Gemini as my first aileron trainer, then look to getting the E-Flite Cub as a nice scalish looking step up from there, that should keep me quiet for a bit before I spend any big money on a model

tIANci

G Emma - plan your batteries carefully. Like for me I am sticking to 3S 2,170 for most 45" EP planes. Then 5S 5,000 mAh packs for my new big plane (10S set up) but the single 5S pack will still fly a nice 40 sized plane with authority or 90 sized plane like a Pilatus Porter etc. I don't want to have a pack for all sort of planes from 3S to 4S then to 5S. That will be messy. Have fun with your EP foray!

netdudeuk

Or you could go slightly smaller and fly on a single 3S 2200 pack with a £35 power system

[link]http://www.b*********.co.uk/?page=shop&action=additem&item=281[/link]

Look at my comments here

[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711650[/link]

Having subsequently looked at the Cub I no longer have the desire to buy one. It's too similar and needs a more expensive power system

G-EMMA

I'm glad I asked the original question, my ideas of what would be best next have changed completely. Thanks for those links netdudeuk, I will consider the Decathlon very carefully Thanks also tIANci, hadn't really considered planning batteries, but can see now that wise purchasing could save me a bundle of cash