Master power switch
#1
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From: Woodville, WI
I'm just finishing a Senior Telemaster. And I'm starting the test fitting of the electrical components.
The problem/challenge/question I have is coming up with a master power switch.
I want a switch accessible from the outside of the plane. Isn't too big, isn't too obtrusive. Why??? Because I'm dealing with a lot of battery connectors, and I don't want to be farting around with a hatch after the power is armed. A master power arm switch would be a good thing...
The switch I found so far is one from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_21064_21064
But, the darn thing is pretty good sized. The circular base is about 2-1/4" in diameter. The switch shaft is about 7/8" in diameter and 1-1/4" deep. I'm thinking of mounting it deep into the fuselage so that only a little actually is visible outside the plane. But in this configuration, it'll take up a lot of space on the inside.
Now, a Senior Telemaster is a good sized bird, and the space is available to use, but down the road I'll be electrifying other airplanes, and those other planes may not have the convenient space to waste.
SO, I'm asking, does anybody have any other suggestions????
Links please...
The problem/challenge/question I have is coming up with a master power switch.
I want a switch accessible from the outside of the plane. Isn't too big, isn't too obtrusive. Why??? Because I'm dealing with a lot of battery connectors, and I don't want to be farting around with a hatch after the power is armed. A master power arm switch would be a good thing...
The switch I found so far is one from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_21064_21064
But, the darn thing is pretty good sized. The circular base is about 2-1/4" in diameter. The switch shaft is about 7/8" in diameter and 1-1/4" deep. I'm thinking of mounting it deep into the fuselage so that only a little actually is visible outside the plane. But in this configuration, it'll take up a lot of space on the inside.
Now, a Senior Telemaster is a good sized bird, and the space is available to use, but down the road I'll be electrifying other airplanes, and those other planes may not have the convenient space to waste.
SO, I'm asking, does anybody have any other suggestions????
Links please...
#2
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From: San Antonio,
TX
ORIGINAL: vmsguy
I'm just finishing a Senior Telemaster. And I'm starting the test fitting of the electrical components.
The problem/challenge/question I have is coming up with a master power switch.
I want a switch accessible from the outside of the plane. Isn't too big, isn't too obtrusive. Why??? Because I'm dealing with a lot of battery connectors, and I don't want to be farting around with a hatch after the power is armed. A master power arm switch would be a good thing...
The switch I found so far is one from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_21064_21064
But, the darn thing is pretty good sized. The circular base is about 2-1/4" in diameter. The switch shaft is about 7/8" in diameter and 1-1/4" deep. I'm thinking of mounting it deep into the fuselage so that only a little actually is visible outside the plane. But in this configuration, it'll take up a lot of space on the inside.
Now, a Senior Telemaster is a good sized bird, and the space is available to use, but down the road I'll be electrifying other airplanes, and those other planes may not have the convenient space to waste.
SO, I'm asking, does anybody have any other suggestions????
Links please...
I'm just finishing a Senior Telemaster. And I'm starting the test fitting of the electrical components.
The problem/challenge/question I have is coming up with a master power switch.
I want a switch accessible from the outside of the plane. Isn't too big, isn't too obtrusive. Why??? Because I'm dealing with a lot of battery connectors, and I don't want to be farting around with a hatch after the power is armed. A master power arm switch would be a good thing...
The switch I found so far is one from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_21064_21064
But, the darn thing is pretty good sized. The circular base is about 2-1/4" in diameter. The switch shaft is about 7/8" in diameter and 1-1/4" deep. I'm thinking of mounting it deep into the fuselage so that only a little actually is visible outside the plane. But in this configuration, it'll take up a lot of space on the inside.
Now, a Senior Telemaster is a good sized bird, and the space is available to use, but down the road I'll be electrifying other airplanes, and those other planes may not have the convenient space to waste.
SO, I'm asking, does anybody have any other suggestions????
Links please...
Have you looked at these:
http://www.rcaccessory.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=215
Mark
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
Hi, I have been flying large electrics for several years and I use a metal toggle switch from Radio Schack that is medium size easy to mount and can handle all the amperage my system can produce. This is a well proven system at least on my models. I have never had a failure or even a glitch. The switch is all metal, chrome or cadium plated and costs about 3 bucks. Other modelers tell me I am asking for it, but so far they are having more problems with their jury rigged switches than I am. I use a single pole single throw but it is available in other forms to also shut down other voltage souces. Norm
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From: St. Charles, IL
sportFlyer is the Kiona publishing's merger of R/C ??? and Quiet flyer magazines. Most good hobby shops will have it. Or google Kiona Publishing and order a back copy.
I'd offer to scan you a copy, but I'm in the middle of moving to my retirementhome and my scanner is unhooked.
It's a simple idea: bridge a male Deans connector with a suitable conductor (brass, copper); insert a female Deans in the red lead from the battery to the esc; mount it to the fuse and use the male as a plug. Neat, clean, quick and unobtrusive.
Walt
I'd offer to scan you a copy, but I'm in the middle of moving to my retirementhome and my scanner is unhooked.
It's a simple idea: bridge a male Deans connector with a suitable conductor (brass, copper); insert a female Deans in the red lead from the battery to the esc; mount it to the fuse and use the male as a plug. Neat, clean, quick and unobtrusive.
Walt
#8
Senior Member
I am using those pre wired shunts ... its the same as those seen above. I hve to say that it works fine and on a 10S 60A set up the switch does not heat up.
What I like about them is that you can attach the plug to your plane, its got a bracket like the switches that we use on our plane for the RX.
What I like about them is that you can attach the plug to your plane, its got a bracket like the switches that we use on our plane for the RX.
#9
Senior Member
mimhoff
Thanks for that Link. I just made me a plug as
others described and been thinking, surely some one
makes them. I learned with my E heli, some kind of
Switch is must for me. You ever see a heli spin up
on its own ? ask me how I know lol. It only happened
Once.
Bob
So Walts retired,great! enjoy .
#10
hi there from Toledo
at the Flying Tigers field we require the use of a removable shunt type circuit on epower planes. There is just no question of whether the plane is alive, if you have the shunt connector in your pocket. It is the last thing you plug in before flying and the first thing you remove after landing.
Some fellows use Dean's ultra connectors for their shunt connector others use Anderson power poles, both work great and totally safe.
A switch with the necessary current handling capacity is usually too large and heavy to be really practical. And then, which position is off or on? Did you bump it accidentally? Make or buy a safety shunt circuit, you won't regret it.
ciao -rjf
at the Flying Tigers field we require the use of a removable shunt type circuit on epower planes. There is just no question of whether the plane is alive, if you have the shunt connector in your pocket. It is the last thing you plug in before flying and the first thing you remove after landing.
Some fellows use Dean's ultra connectors for their shunt connector others use Anderson power poles, both work great and totally safe.
A switch with the necessary current handling capacity is usually too large and heavy to be really practical. And then, which position is off or on? Did you bump it accidentally? Make or buy a safety shunt circuit, you won't regret it.
ciao -rjf
#11
Senior Member
A shunt is a must for the 'bigger planes', I have seen my friend plug in one of his foamies and somehow the throttle was up and the ESC did arm and the prop cut his knee. Was a nasty gash from a so called small foamie. This morning I was testing out my 40 sized plane, did not use a shunt yet because I have not finaised my wiring etc and I had to warn everyone to stay away from my plane. Funny how it can come alive right? I better put in my shunt later today.
#12

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From: St. Charles, IL
Not trying to one-up anybody, but I've got 42 stitches in my left hand between the thumb and fore finger. The tendon that works the thumb was exposed; fortunately the prop arc was parallel to the tendon or I could have lost the use of my thumb. Reason? I trusted the other guy to disconnect the battery while I made a change in the Tx set-up for him. The plane was on a workstand and it was my hand or my face.
Walt
Walt
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
Hi all, I also use a small rubber band between the throttle stick and the bottom of the transmitter to hold it fully closed. My rigs won't run if the throttle is closed. I have two safety backups, large switch to disarm power supply and shut down throttle. Of coure one must still keep his body parts away from a prop's arc.
Treat every prop large or small as if it is alive. I once grabbed the prop of my full size PT-22 to swing it and it kicked back throwing me in a back loop. No damages but very embarrasing. Fortunately the Kinner didn't start. Norm
Treat every prop large or small as if it is alive. I once grabbed the prop of my full size PT-22 to swing it and it kicked back throwing me in a back loop. No damages but very embarrasing. Fortunately the Kinner didn't start. Norm
#14
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From: Antispam,
RI, FRANCE, METROPOLITAN
ORIGINAL: iFLYrc_Vic
Walt, made one from stuff I had (deans and wire). Cost pennies. Look forward to using it.
Walt, made one from stuff I had (deans and wire). Cost pennies. Look forward to using it.
Ive made one of these
But where should we mount it, in the cowl? or arm the system before we put the wings on?
#15

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From: Columbia, MD
The advantage of using the switch is to allow you to quickly and easily arm/disarm the power system after you have installed the battery(s) and assembled the plane (ready to fly). With the switch disconnected, install the battery(s) and connect the battery to the switch. When you are ready to fly, insert the plug to arm the system.
The ideal setup would be to mount the female part of the switch somewhere external on the fuse that is accessible (similar to the receiver switch for glow planes). This will require fabricating a mounting plate for the switch (or just let it hang out through a hole in the side of the fuse).
http://iflyrc.hypermart.net
#16

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From: St. Charles, IL
Arming the plane before putting the wing on defeats the whole purpose of the safety switch. Mount it smoewhere on the fuse away from the prop arc and easily accessible when you are ready to fly.
Walt
Walt



